Just an FYI - it doesn't have to be a gas station in the middle of no where to get bad gas - a local Shell station right on an interstate extra got a bad batch of fuel a couple of years ago and they needed up paying tons of money for repairs. You'd think a busy Shell station would be okay, but just goes to show that if the fuel is screwed when it's delivered, there's nothing you can do about it.
Shell gas = I wish we had a poop emoji Their gas here in TX is routinely sub-par and causes the truck to smell "gassy". I've been using either HEB (grocery chain here in TX) or Costco and have been very happy and no "gassy" odor ever. Shell always caused hesitation and on my other 2 cars ('14 Hyundai sonata hybrid...don't laugh....and a '16 Outback 3.6 limited) saw up to a 15% decrease in fuel economy tracked over 20 fill-ups. Sunoco is my absolute favorite gasoline (just can't find it around here very often).
Pump and filter found at Autozone. About to R&R in hotel lot. Just going to disconnect the battery and cut a flap in the carpet. Too loaded down to remove seats easily.
Thanks for all of the suggestions everyone. Is it possible for me to replace the fuel pump unit without replacing the sealing ring on the tank? I can't source that at the local vendor.
Simple answer, yes. I have re-used pump seals, injector o rings etc. many times over the years. Just look at seal and make sure no tears, some times a light coat of lubraplate on seal when re using. If you are referring to metal retainer ring, that is also yes.
Symptoms almost sound like vapor lock. High altitudes, high temperatures, and an underperforming fuel pump could all lead to the fuel vaporizing in the fuel line. A new fuel pump putting out higher pressure will do a much better job at keeping fuel in liquid form in the fuel lines. Just a possible cause, not sure it's THE cause.
I thought all 100 series had dual fuel tanks with dual fuel pumps?
I could be wrong of course.
Although, if you fill both tanks with bad fuel, I guess it won't really help.
If that is the case - you filled both tanks, then I'd try a bottle of octane booster or something like that in the sub tank, it MAY add a bit of grunt and allow you to get through the tank.
If it worked, then I'd wait till empty and fill it with high octane fuel for a few tanks.
Then do the same with the main tank.
I haven't tried these 'octane boosters' though, so YMMV.
Sadly the CEL ended up being a damaged passenger side catalytic converter. I threw codes for 1600+ miles home and kept resetting them with a scan tool every 50 or so miles to keep ABS and traction control working. It drove me nuts for about a week after until I noticed a diesel like rattling one day. The passenger catalytic converter element had broken loose. I ended up gutting it through the bung with a screw driver and simply running a set of 18mm O2 spacers. That solved the issue. It has since been 13,xxx or so miles.
What he means is he removed the insides of the catalytic converter, which makes it now work and it will throw a check engine light.
Soooo....you use spacers on the rear O2 sensors to pull them out of the exhaust stream, they then read that the catalytic converter is working and no check engine light.
It is a perfect fit for those of us without car inspections and are not willing to spend three months salary on cats.
Spacers for these trucks are like $10.
