Brembo vs OEM for FJ80

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Nov 15, 2011
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Hillsboro, OR.
Hey guys, I am planning to do a brake job on my 92 FJ80. I am thinking about getting the Brembo front rotors because it's cheaper than OEM from toyota dealership. I know OEM stuff are good. But I've known that Brembo brakes are one of the best out there too.. what do you guys think? OEM rotors are like $144 I think it's each.. Brembo rotors are $79..

Let me know..

Thanks a lot :)
 
Brembo is a great name, but don't forget that they make different quality throughout their products. The Brembos for the highend sports cars are going to be different than the $76 rotors that you get for your Cruiser.

I think maybe you should get a price on those OEM rotors from "CDan" or "beno" as they are always much cheaper than my local Canadian dealership. That said, I can get front and rear rotors from my local Canadian dealership cheaper than $144 (and did just that in the last 1.5 months).
 
I put a set of rotors on that Slee Off Road sells for the 80, and they have been great over the last 10k miles, no warping or pulsing at all. Using stock 80 pads as well. Some mudders replace the 80 pads with 100 pads (without shims initially) for longer life and better stopping power.
 
There is nothing specal about OEM rotor other than the ridiculous prices. Get some brand name like DBS or Powerstop slotted rotors for less BUT much better quality than OEM.
 
There is nothing specal about OEM rotor other than the ridiculous prices. Get some brand name like DBS or Powerstop slotted rotors for less BUT much better quality than OEM.

You might be surprised! Take a new OEM rotor and compare its weight to that of other brands of rotors. I have found none that weigh as much as the OEM. Apparently, there ARE differences in the densities of the materials used in making brake rotors. I think there is a thread somewhere here on 'Mud where someone posted their results.

Speaking from my experience, OEM rotors and 100 series pads (along with a properly functioning brake system) is a great combination. If you want to go one step better, get the pads and rotors cryogenically treated; you'll get better stops and longer life.
 
You might be surprised! Take a new OEM rotor and compare its weight to that of other brands of rotors. I have found none that weigh as much as the OEM. Apparently, there ARE differences in the densities of the materials used in making brake rotors. I think there is a thread somewhere here on 'Mud where someone posted their results.

Speaking from my experience, OEM rotors and 100 series pads (along with a properly functioning brake system) is a great combination. If you want to go one step better, get the pads and rotors cryogenically treated; you'll get better stops and longer life.

Believe me! I had compared the lives of OEM rotor/pads vs other brand name rotor/ceramic pads. OEM's did not outlast others. I am now sticking with ceramic pads with slotted rotors for better brake performance.
 
There is ton's of hype in the aftermarket brake industry. Brembo rotors are just fine, save your coin for other stuff and don't stress. Cryo, slotted, drilled, etc is all nothing you need on your cruiser and oem rotors are overpriced.
 
Unless you're driving short course or something, slotted and drilled serve no purpose.

Contrary to popular opinion, neither improves cooling. They prevent gases and dust from building up between the pad and caliper during repeated serious braking. They in fact reduce braking performance (to a small degree) by reducing surface area for pads to grip and thermal capacity (less volume), they also create points for stress/fatigue fractures.

Any trusted brand decent-price vented rotor is entirely adequate. Cheap s*** will be thin/weak (=fracturing/warping), and OEM is overpriced.
 
Hmmmmm.... I'm really gonna think about this.. I leaning towards Brembo right now.. but drilled or slotted are in my head too.. I don't want to buy a low quality stuff for my rig especially now that I just sold my Bimmer :'( I'm down with only my LC now.. it will be my daily driving for a while and my going out in the woods vehicle.. so I want something that will not let me down..
 
yardbird88 said:
There is nothing specal about OEM rotor other than the ridiculous prices. Get some brand name like DBS or Powerstop slotted rotors for less BUT much better quality than OEM.

Uh huh. Well speaking from the other side of the bench I will never ever again go with anything other that OEM. When the trucks brakes were warping so bad from one long mountain decent to the point of the wheel violently shaking while trying to come to a complete stop while NOT running off the road, that's when I knew I will never trust anything other than OEM for braking.
 
speaking of brakes, has anyone noticed on ebay they have the same powerstop bakes that slee sells except its only 210 dollars for the entire set? sounds like a load of BS but im wondering if anyone has tried them.
 
Why deep cryogenics?

John Kawasaki

kawasaki.jpg
BMW E30 M3 D-Modified #518,
Bullet Performance Costa Mesa, California.
“I first tried them back in 1999 for a street car, which as time progressed turned into a Race Car. Everything on the vehicle had been changed except the brake rotors. Today, one set of the Frozen Rotors has survived 2 years of stop and go traffic, 13 driving schools, 6 club race weekends, and 3 enduro races, not to mention numerous testing days. While other competitors have changed rotors on a regular basis, due to warping and cracking, I have never thought about my rotors for 3 years and over 20 brake pad changes. Frozen Rotors is a product which gives me an “unfair advantage”. We have compared rotor temperatures with cars built similarly to mine, and the difference has been between 75 to 140 degrees Fahrenheit! Because of my experience with them on a race car, I have now replaced all the rotors on all of my cars, and will ONLY use Frozen Rotors. They have saved me money, effort, time, and most importantly, piece of mind. While I do not want my competitors to find out about them, I feel this is a product which gives more then a performance gain; it also increases safety on and off track. I am more then merely satisfied; I am in awe of the product.”

Mike Peters

peters-img.jpg
Champion Porsche-Audi,
Pompano Beach, Fla.
"The first time I used the cryogenic process was at the Moroso 24-Hour Race. In the past, we always had to change brake pads every 3-4 hours. With the cryogenically-treated rotors, we got 7-8 hours of use, and we probably could have gotten more. As the pads wear out, the pedal ‘sinks,’ and the response isn’t as good. Without cryogenic treatment, the pedal would start to go soft by the end of the race. So while the advantages are significant in a long-distance race, the cryogenic process still gives you a definite edge for a short race. I strongly recommend the process to others, though not necessarily to my competitors, because it offers a definite advantage. I would not race without cryo rotors."

***


I fail to see how Cryo'd rotors (only Powerslots for me) with Hawk semi metallic or another reputable semi metallic can be improved upon for longevity and improved stopping performance. At least without changing the size of the rotors or calipers, but even then cryo'd is the shizzle.


POWERSLOT - Faster Stops Made Easier
 
I had always felt my OEM setup made for exceptionally long stopping distances, especially when wet. I was returning home, going UPHILL on my dirt road about 25mph, when a deer jumped in front of me and froze. I slammed on the brakes and managed to slow the truck to about 5 mph by the time I hit the deer.

I felt that stopping distances could be improved, so I put a pair of aussie built DBA 4784 slotted rotors on the front. They are 1/4" larger in dia. than OEM, yet fit inside the brake backing plate nicely. Slotting seems to keep the heat glaze from building up on the pads, but the difference could also be in the semi-metallic pads I installed. These are the PBR D11994WD semi-metallic.

Both the rotors and pads are available from Man-a Fre. The rotors are also vented, which reduces spun weight over OEM, and keeps everything cooler.

My stepdaughter (the rich one that drives the latest Lexus SUV) says my rig out-stops hers, and she almost hit her head on the steering wheel one day when she was driving my rig, and slammed on the brakes. I experience stopping distances that have been shortened by something like 15-20%, conservatively, perhaps more when wet. I drive thru alot of deep wet snow and slush during the winters in the Idaho mountains, so this is an important safety consideration for me. BTW, the pads outlast OEM 3to1 (I got 68K miles from the first set) and do not create the nasty black pad dust all over the wheels, that I had with OEM.

Don't get me wrong, I love OEM, and revel in the quality of most all things Toyota, but in this area, I think superior engineering exists. Just my $.02
 
Slotting seems to keep the heat glaze from building up on the pads, but the difference could also be in the semi-metallic pads I installed. These are the PBR D11994WD semi-metallic.
Semi-metallics do not pad imprint, but there are warnings about bedding them in correctly at install to avoid juddering problems that are similar to the ones found from organic (most OEM pads are organic) pad imprinting. They also grab fast which is why they are used in racing, but they are very hard on OE style rotors and will cause grooving. Premium slotted and/or cross drilled rotors help keep the metallic pad surfaces flat (that's the big advantage for slotted/drilled--ability to use the semi-metallics without trashing your rotors). Adding cryogenic freezing puts rotors and pads on a completely different plateau as far as longevity.
 
i used the brembos also about 30,000 miles ago and they are still fine................ i also went with a ceramic pad made by akibono ..................

i could not be happier , the brakes stop better than before, less dust and less noise. i also used the 100 series pads.
 
2 1/2 years ago I used R-1 slotted/vented and so far they work fine. On my second FJ80, I used generic replacements and work fine also. Both were inexpensive.
 

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