- Thread starter
- #41
No wukkas dude, I've taken plenty and am happy to give back what I can. Plenty more to come.
Breather to Exhaust - Venturi PCV System
- Thread starter dadinabarrel
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #42
Update
I pulled the head off last week (thanks for the space and help Jas) and found that the oil pressure orifice was where it was supossed to be. I now think I may have bought a dodgy head gasket. Oil was getting into three cylinders which was why I was getting such a smoky exhaust and high level of blowby. The gasket was $38 on eBay, the genuine one cost me $120... Lesson learned
New (genuine) 5 notch 1HZ-T gasket fitted with 2nd set of new bolts, confirmed that orifice was in place, confirmed that the rocker cover vent flap had been closed in to 5mm and I still had a smokey exhaust.
So I decided to give the exhaust venturi another go. When I ran my engine after removing the catch can and refitted the venturi, I still had grey smoke and oil was dripping out of my pipe. When I started it up after sitting for a few hours it blew a cloud of smoke which then cleared.
So I have removed the crankcase pollution from passing through my turbo/intercooler but now I have too much vacuum as it's sucking oil out of the motor!
I then fitted one of these http://www.westernfilters.net.au/Mann-Provent-200-Oil-catch-can-separator/ $200 from Brisbane Air Filter Centre. It has an inbuilt filter/seperator and crankcase pressure controller. I ran the drain back into my sump via a non return valve using clear line.
Now my exhaust runs completely clean, my turbo/intercooler will stay nice any clean and my oil is staying in my engine - happy days!
My wrap up on the venturi is that it's a great way to stop the corrosive oily gasses from recycling through your engine via the turbo/intercooler as long as you control the rate of vacuum and seperate the oil out of the gas stream before it hits your exhaust.
If anyone in Brisbane/surrounds wants to check out my system PM me here
I pulled the head off last week (thanks for the space and help Jas) and found that the oil pressure orifice was where it was supossed to be. I now think I may have bought a dodgy head gasket. Oil was getting into three cylinders which was why I was getting such a smoky exhaust and high level of blowby. The gasket was $38 on eBay, the genuine one cost me $120... Lesson learned
New (genuine) 5 notch 1HZ-T gasket fitted with 2nd set of new bolts, confirmed that orifice was in place, confirmed that the rocker cover vent flap had been closed in to 5mm and I still had a smokey exhaust.
So I decided to give the exhaust venturi another go. When I ran my engine after removing the catch can and refitted the venturi, I still had grey smoke and oil was dripping out of my pipe. When I started it up after sitting for a few hours it blew a cloud of smoke which then cleared.
So I have removed the crankcase pollution from passing through my turbo/intercooler but now I have too much vacuum as it's sucking oil out of the motor!
I then fitted one of these http://www.westernfilters.net.au/Mann-Provent-200-Oil-catch-can-separator/ $200 from Brisbane Air Filter Centre. It has an inbuilt filter/seperator and crankcase pressure controller. I ran the drain back into my sump via a non return valve using clear line.
Now my exhaust runs completely clean, my turbo/intercooler will stay nice any clean and my oil is staying in my engine - happy days!
My wrap up on the venturi is that it's a great way to stop the corrosive oily gasses from recycling through your engine via the turbo/intercooler as long as you control the rate of vacuum and seperate the oil out of the gas stream before it hits your exhaust.
If anyone in Brisbane/surrounds wants to check out my system PM me here
The provent 200 runs a strange setup which still passes a lot of oil. You can modify them to work much better by reversing the flow. The lower point becomes the inlet (you need to remove and seal the valve inside the mushroom cover) and the upper port becomes the outlet.
This then ensures that only filtered air gets to the outlet. In the stock arrangement the air outlet is sharing the same space with all the oil draining out of the filter. Any oil which sloshes into the outlet valve area can only leave via your engine.
This then ensures that only filtered air gets to the outlet. In the stock arrangement the air outlet is sharing the same space with all the oil draining out of the filter. Any oil which sloshes into the outlet valve area can only leave via your engine.
- Thread starter
- #44
I've got the rocker cover feeding into the top (casing stamped arrow in) and the venturi drawing from the bottom. The clear hose to drain only shows a very small flow down to the sump. Only a few drops an hour... Certainly not enough to generate a flow. I'm not sure about your experience Dougal, but so far so good for me
Yep, you need to reverse the flow, against the factory arrows. Open it up and look at the placement of the filter, the factory setup makes zero sense and can cause serious issues.
My provent passed so much oil to the intake it hydrauliced my engine and appears to have broken piston rings. It was about 3 years ago. I reversed the flow, disabled the internal valve and the outlet pipe has been clean since. But I still need to rebuild the engine.
- Thread starter
- #46
So remove and blank off the NRV, rocker cover in through the bottom so it has to push through the filter to get to the venturi. This means that the oil stays on the engine side of the filter and can only exit via the drain. Makes sense.
In the new year I'll get it done, thanks guys
In the new year I'll get it done, thanks guys
Yep, pop off the mushroom cap on the side, take out the spring, plunger and rubber seal. Goo it up with silicone to seal and replace the cap. Swap the in/out lines around and you're good to go.
Now you'll get clean, filtered air out the top to your engine and all the oil stays low.
- Thread starter
- #48
Wicked, thanks Dougal
Stumbled across this post as I was looking for a solution.
I recently took off my broken turbo and remounted the original manifold and intake. But I noticed that I didn't have the PCV tube which connects to the intake pipe. I capped the inlet to the intake and left the head cover outlet open to the air.
Problem is it made a big mess in my engine compartment.
I'd really like to get one of these oil catch devices, but that's a big expense as I'm in the Mid East.
My question...
What do I loose by simply connecting the PVC tube to the air intake? The tube costs about 5$. And this is what the factory spec is...Toyota engineers couldn't have got that design so wrong, did they?
Without a turbo am I looking at phenomenal diesel savings by leaving it open to air? Will it be that much better for my engine's longevity?
I recently took off my broken turbo and remounted the original manifold and intake. But I noticed that I didn't have the PCV tube which connects to the intake pipe. I capped the inlet to the intake and left the head cover outlet open to the air.
Problem is it made a big mess in my engine compartment.
I'd really like to get one of these oil catch devices, but that's a big expense as I'm in the Mid East.
My question...
What do I loose by simply connecting the PVC tube to the air intake? The tube costs about 5$. And this is what the factory spec is...Toyota engineers couldn't have got that design so wrong, did they?
Without a turbo am I looking at phenomenal diesel savings by leaving it open to air? Will it be that much better for my engine's longevity?
Stumbled across this post as I was looking for a solution.
I recently took off my broken turbo and remounted the original manifold and intake. But I noticed that I didn't have the PCV tube which connects to the intake pipe. I capped the inlet to the intake and left the head cover outlet open to the air.
Problem is it made a big mess in my engine compartment.
I'd really like to get one of these oil catch devices, but that's a big expense as I'm in the Mid East.
My question...
What do I loose by simply connecting the PVC tube to the air intake? The tube costs about 5$. And this is what the factory spec is...Toyota engineers couldn't have got that design so wrong, did they?
Without a turbo am I looking at phenomenal diesel savings by leaving it open to air? Will it be that much better for my engine's longevity?
I recently took off my broken turbo and remounted the original manifold and intake. But I noticed that I didn't have the PCV tube which connects to the intake pipe. I capped the inlet to the intake and left the head cover outlet open to the air.
Problem is it made a big mess in my engine compartment.
I'd really like to get one of these oil catch devices, but that's a big expense as I'm in the Mid East.
My question...
What do I loose by simply connecting the PVC tube to the air intake? The tube costs about 5$. And this is what the factory spec is...Toyota engineers couldn't have got that design so wrong, did they?
Without a turbo am I looking at phenomenal diesel savings by leaving it open to air? Will it be that much better for my engine's longevity?
Use some heater hose to extend the breather further down
Easy and cheap. Thanks!
How 'bout this?
5$ teapot mod.
Catches the oil real well! I just punched a hole in the lid for the air to vent through. No more mess. Just empty the pot every now and then. Beats ordering a 200$ system from the other side of the world.
5$ teapot mod.
Catches the oil real well! I just punched a hole in the lid for the air to vent through. No more mess. Just empty the pot every now and then. Beats ordering a 200$ system from the other side of the world.
