Brand new high pitched noise from engine. (1 Viewer)

[LX101North]

Last night my wife took the rig to work for the first time. So this was the first time I ever heard the vehicle start up and and pull away from outside of it. Right when it started up, there was this very noticeable(to me), high pitched noise. I hate to think so, but it seems to be metal on metal. The truck was in park when it happened. When she dropped it into reverse, the noise got much quieter,, maybe even inaudible. I pretty much forgot about it after about 3 hours of googling and paranoid mud board searches. This evening I jumped in to go to town. Listening when it was in park, I heard nothing, but when I backed up I could hear the noise ever so slightly. I took it out onto the highway and that's when I realized I might have an issue. From beginning of acceleration all the way up to 55 mph it was making the noise. This whining, almost shearing type sound would get higher in pitch as rpm went up. I want to say that I also feel a new feeling in the gas pedal... If I rest my foot on the pedal there is no vibration, but when I push the petal I think I feel a new vibration there. I could be wrong about that, but I don't think so. Ever since I bought this rig I have been overly sensitive to every sound and vibe this thing has been putting out. Took the ride home immediately. A couple hours later I had to turn it on and go around the block one more time at low speeds. The noise is becoming more persistent in a VERY short period of time. HELP? Oh yeah, it's a 99 LX Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD

 

[LX101North]

I pulled into the garage an hour ago and I lifted the car up a bit to have a look. Noticed a small puddle the size of a silver dollar. It looked a bit pinkish. Don't see any fluid anywhere. Tranny is clean. Front diff is clean. It seemed to be coming from somewhere in the engine compartment. So, metal screeching sound, kind of bearingish...and what looks to be coolant on the floor under the engine....water pump? Any thoughts? I bought the rig with 116,000. Lexus only has service records up to 77,xxx miles. After that it went off the books. No sign of 90k service. I know that's past due. Funny thing is, I was just about to order the parts.

Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD

 

[2001LC]

First thought is water pump; leak + sound, but you need to do some detective work.

Taste the pink stuff, just a drop then spit, scape tongue and rinse really well. If sweet it's coolant, oily it's AFT. If you've keep and eye on coolant reservoir both when cold & hot or have had too add that's a good indicator. IIRC there is a weep hole at front bottom of engine check for your pink stuff or wet, also check your tees as stated by ^hoser^ and your all hoses.

Use a mechanic stethoscope or a long screw driver and listen to the various possibilities for the sound. Cold engine is when you'll hear the most, so easiest to find then.

Sound may be power steering pump (flush regularly with synthetic AFT), belt pulley bearings which are very common, alternator bushings, air conditioner compressor or fan clutch (check fan while engine off for movement)

If all checks out good and weep hole wet then safe to say water pump needs replacing.

 

[BamaHeel]

Power steering pump or pulley bearing. If its a pulley it's likely the one at the top of the water pump that is in the serpentine belt. It is easy to change if so.

 

[2001LC]

Water pump is big job, behind timing belt which you can't see. Serpentine is very easy job and is the belt you can see which is turned by crank pulley (lager pulley at bottom front of engine). Serpentine has one tensioner pulley and one idler pulley you can carefully put tip of long screwdriver on front of nut/housing that holds pulley on while engine running, and place ear on handle of screwdriver (back yard stethoscope). The alternator is on this serpentine belt also on PS and air-conditioner compressor is on DS (driver side)

 

[LX101North]

Water pump is big job, behind timing belt which you can't see. Serpentine is very easy job and is the belt you can see which is turned by crank pulley (lager pulley at bottom front of engine). Serpentine has one tensioner pulley and one idler pulley you can carefully put tip of long screwdriver on front of nut/housing that holds pulley on while engine running, and place ear on handle of screwdriver (back yard stethoscope). The alternator is on this sep. belt also on PS and air-conditioner compressor is on DS (driver side)

Power steering pump or pulley bearing. If its a pulley it's likely the one at the top of the water pump that is in the serpentine belt. It is easy to change if so.

First thought is water pump; leak + sound, but you need to do some detective work.

Taste the pink stuff, just a drop then spit, scape tongue and rinse really well. If sweet it's coolant, oily it's AFT. If you've keep and eye on coolant reservoir both when cold & hot or have had too add that's a good indicator. IIRC there is a weep hole at front bottom of engine check for your pink stuff or wet, also check your tees as stated by ^hoser^ and your all hoses.

Use a mechanic stethoscope or a long screw driver and listen to the various possibilities for the sound. Cold engine is when you'll hear the most, so easiest to find then.

Sound may be power steering pump (flush regularly with synthetic AFT), belt pulley bearings which are very common, alternator bushings, air conditioner compressor or fan clutch (check fan while engine off for movement)

If all checks out good and weep hole wet then safe to say water pump needs replacing.

Check your T-fittings for coolant leak. Located near AHC reservoir. Search for more details.

All who have replied, thank you. I cant find any evidence of anything today. I really don't want to drive the car to produce symptoms again. Would it be a good idea to start it up and just let it idle for a bit to see if i get something? I'm positive I would, because whatever it is, is fading really fast. Also, in regards to all the pulley's. I am going to order all that I need for the 90k from CDan on Monday. Should I just start rippin into her this weekend? And if so, what kind of symptoms could I look for regarding pulley bearings? would there be some play in the pulley when turned? Again, Thanks all.

 

[LX101North]

.....say, if it was the water pump failing, what bearing is causing the failure? Or could it be vice versa? When the water pump fails its spewing coolant onto pulleys causing one to fail? totally theoretical...

 

[2001LC]

I'd wait to run engine until cold ~12 hours or so. First look at coolant reservoir, it should be at cold level mark. Then check fan. Then start and check for sound (with stethoscope) as I've outlined. When hot repeat all check checks while running, except fan of course.

Serpentine pulleys while engine on, if you hear; smooth operating sound it's good. Ticking, oscillating or just not steady sound replace. The tensioner pulley can be pressed out and replace for $5 at NAPA, the idler bearing difficult to find so OEM pulley with bearing is easiest way to go.

Timing belt tensioner & idler pulleys once off; hold in hand and spin if sound bad replace bearing. Water pump go bad at bushing and leak is most often at that point. Most replace with TB job along with both pulleys and tensioner. I keep my water pump as it was fine as was my tensioner, but I did replace all pulleys/bearings TB & serpentine. Do thermostat while your at it. Don't mess with crank and cam seals, unless needed (leaking any oil).

 

[LX101North]

Thanks man! I will get on the diagnostics in the morning, one by one. I appreciate your input. I would have never even dreamed of doing this kind of work to a vehicle that i own before I found this website and discovered how badass these rigs are. Now I'm like Bring It On!

 

[2001LC]

The check for smooth sounds, serpentine belt & pulleys, coolant, transmission and power steering fluid flushing are jobs, easy with minimal tools and experience.

The timing belt is a job, more time, tools, experience and most of all patients is needed.

I'm the kind of guy that restores rather than replaces and have been working on cars all my life. So for me it is a it just time.

Do your home work and know what your getting into: Time, procedures, specs, tools and parts. There's a great deal of info in mud and in the FSM (Field Service Manual) along with owners manual are must have's and downloadable free in mud (when link works).

 

[2001LC]

If water pump is bad; the T-Belt just as-well be changed it's ~$20. That said, look on Timing belt covers (PS and DS) a sticker comes with ever belt and should be placed on cover:


Just left of Engine Oil stick you can see the TB sticker with date and miles.

 

[LX101North]

2001LC. Man, thanks for the input. If you would have asked me a few weeks ago, when I did my first starter contact job, if I was going to do the 90 k, I would have told you somebody else. Because after the first time I read a write up on it(scottm), I was like oh hell no! It just looked completely beyond my reach. Too many tools, too many pieces, too much s*** too break. And not just any s***, I knew if I screwed this up, that's pretty much end of story for me and my short lived life as a proud cruiser owner. But I can't stop reading and watching videos and asking questions. Every day I know more and I am becoming more confident.

Anyways,

I can't tell you how many times I have searched high and low desperately trying to find that damn sticker. It's not there. This rig is probably another case of Previous owner seeing impending doom down the road and tosses it to the curb after 100,000 or so instead of investing in what could potentially be a half mil+ vehicle. That's cool with me. Thanks for breaking it in buddy!

I have a couple of questions for you.

First, how many left hand bolts are there for the timing belt job? Is it just the ac compressor, or is there more?

Second, when I figure out my preferred method of getting what seems to be one of the most challenging bolts off(crankshaft pulley), is the goal to keep my chosen pulley holder in line with the pulley at TDC(also camshaft pulleys at zero)?
Also, if timing does not line up, at first, would I slowly turn crankshaft clockwise a couple turns until I get all marks on point?

It's just the little BIG questions I have about this job.
I have the FSM, which is awesome by the way, but it would not be possible for me without the added write ups and videos I have found. And having people like you, who have a ton of experience help walk a noob, like myself through this process.
Now I just wish I knew someone in the area who has a wealth of knowledge and some spare time to come wrench with me. Haha!

 

[Muddy Bean]

Just an FYI, I wouldn't taste your fluids. You're better off learning the look and consistency of your fluids. I can dip a finger into and smell and look at a fluid and know whether it's power steering, oil, trans fluid (can similar to power steering) or coolant. Hydraulic fluids are definitely different in consistency from coolant.

 

[LX101North]

Just an FYI, I wouldn't taste your fluids. You're better off learning the look and consistency of your fluids. I can dip a finger into and smell and look at a fluid and know whether it's power steering, oil, trans fluid (can similar to power steering) or coolant. Hydraulic fluids are definitely different in consistency from coolant.

Good call. Yeah, it could of only been one of two things. Coolant or ATF. So I poured a couple drops of each on the garage floor. Silly, I know. I just wanted to see what the difference was visually and then feel them both separately. ATF was much thicker than what I had originally saw and felt on the night it happened. Wrong color too. Still don't wanna start my car to find out again. I'm just gonna break it down.

 

[2001LC]

*****
I have a couple of questions for you.

First, how many left hand bolts are there for the timing belt job? Is it just the ac compressor, or is there more?

Second, when I figure out my preferred method of getting what seems to be one of the most challenging bolts off(crankshaft pulley), is the goal to keep my chosen pulley holder in line with the pulley at TDC(also camshaft pulleys at zero)?
Also, if timing does not line up, at first, would I slowly turn crankshaft clockwise a couple turns until I get all marks on point?

It's just the little BIG questions I have about this job.
I have the FSM, which is awesome by the way, but it would not be possible for me without the added write ups and videos I have found. And having people like you, who have a ton of experience help walk a noob, like myself through this process.
Now I just wish I knew someone in the area who has a wealth of knowledge and some spare time to come wrench with me. Haha!

1) I don't recall.
2) Yes, it easiest to line up before pulley taken off. A chain wrench works well to hold, using your old serpentine belt to protect pulley from chain. Note T marks above cam pulleys are NOT the timing marks, it is the mark just to the left of T as your looking at them. Place a pice of cardboard on radiator to protect fins.
Hope OregonLC doesn't mind me linking his picture of timing marks SEE: This is what correct timing looks like.

Just an FYI, I wouldn't taste your fluids. You're better off learning the look and consistency of your fluids. I can dip a finger into and smell and look at a fluid and know whether it's power steering, oil, trans fluid (can similar to power steering) or coolant. Hydraulic fluids are definitely different in consistency from coolant.

Don't all tough muder's drink ATF for breakfast sweetened with coolant.

 

[2001LC]

FYI: Chain wench was recommended to me by a highly respected Lexus mechanic. This was for the crank bolt of a IS300, which was the toughest bolt I've ever tackled, much tough than ours. Tried to break loose with a 2' x 1/2" break bar & 1/2" short extension with 6' of pipe for leverage and home made pulley holder in gear manual trans & brake on. Got just the slights bit of flex in extension & breaker bar and it would not break loose. Had to use a 4' x 3/4" breaker bar with short 3/4 extension with very tough socket. Held with chain wrench using belt to protect pulley, broke loose without a mark on the pulley grooves. Most shop do it this way, beats factory holder tool hands down.

Harbor Freight has chain wrench for ~$20 IIRC and 1/2" breaker will work fine for the 2UZ-fe we have, not that tough.

Don't worry if you move crank off mark, just turn twice back to marks as you said.

 

[LX101North]

FYI: Chain wench was recommended to me by a highly respected Lexus mechanic. This was for the crank bolt of a IS300, which was the toughest bolt I've ever tackled, much tough than ours. Tried to break loose with a 2' x 1/2" break bar & 1/2" short extension with 6' of pipe for leverage and home made pulley holder in gear manual trans & brake on. Got just the slights bit of flex in extension & breaker bar and it would not break loose. Had to use a 4' x 3/4" breaker bar with short 3/4 extension with very tough socket. Held with chain wrench using belt to protect pulley, broke loose without a mark on the pulley grooves. Most shop do it this way, beats factory holder tool hands down.

Harbor Freight has chain wrench for ~$20 IIRC and 1/2" breaker will work fine for the 2UZ-fe we have, not that tough.

Don't worry if you move crank off mark, just turn twice back to marks as you said.

Sweet! That's how I'm gonna do this. That IS300sounds like a PITA. I ordered all necessary parts today from CDan. Minus the drive belt idler pulley and seals. I had to save a few bucks for now, and if I get in there and they look bad, I'll take care of it then. I'm gonna document every step from start to finish. Eh, nothing wrong about another write up. I could read a hundred of the same procedure.
Thanks again for you advice.

 

[2001LC]

The IS300 was PITA unbelievable for a six cylinder, until we had right tools for the job.

A piece of old drive belt (aka serpentine belt) is best protector over crank pulley from chain wrench digging in, so what are you planning to use to protect it?

You may also need a puller and two or three metric bolts to get the crank pulley off (aka; harmonic balancer). Many parts store will lend this out for free, they have all kinds of loaner kits.

 

[LX101North]

I don't see why I couldn't use the drive belt myself. That seems like a good idea. What about the fan clutch? Keeping it still?

 

[2001LC]

Sweet! That's how I'm gonna do this. *** I ordered all necessary parts today from CDan. Minus the drive belt idler pulley and seals.***.

I don't see why I couldn't use the drive belt myself. That seems like a good idea. What about the fan clutch? Keeping it still?

I read "Minus the drive belt" sorry I've been up for 36 hr, my eyes are going. You'll not have a problem with fan, it easy.

I'm trying to source just the bearing for the idler now. For some reason it hard to find. I emailed NSK and they gave me local reps. It's a NSK BD20-15DUL, for which I've been quote $28 plus shipping & tax. If I find any better deal I'll let you know.