Brand NEW here: things to look for/beware of in purchasing (1 Viewer)

[bperry83]

Hey everyone,

Just have a few questions regarding a 60 series wagon. Never owned a toyota before and am looking to have a vehicle that can do some basic overland while also being a daily driver.

Not knowing really anything about this truck or it's components, can you guys give me your wisdom on things to be weary of or to look for in purchasing one.

I'm looking to stay well under 10k (more towards 5-7k)

Which parts seem to go first, how far/long will the motor run for? how are parts usually $ on these guys for replacement and basic parts. gas? rust?

Keep this thread separate from aftermarket mods/applications. i'm just concerned with a stock truck and basic wear and tear i should avoid when looking/seeing a vehicle.

Thanks for any help in advance.

 

[IrollwithTojo]

Compared to some guys on MUD I dont know anything, but I do know:
Typical rust is around the wheel wells, rocker panels, frame.
Gas is around 12? Depends on how you drive it obviously
Hope it helped

-Carl

 

[Michael Hanson]

Drive it for at least 30 min.that will tell a-lot ,sit at idle for about 15 min.see if the temp. climbs. Oil leaks around front and rear seals.Oil leaks at axle ends. Rust in gas tank. Do all seat belts work? Gas gauge and oil gauge work.Shocks worn out? Keys work all locks?Heat and air work? Water leaks at front window and rain gutter. Hope this helps. Mike

 

[Meatdawg]

The engine really depends on how well it has been maintained. My 3fe has 262,000 on it and still runs well, I know others on this board have more miles than that. For parts I would stick to OEM and C-DAN is your best source for all parts. He works for American Toyota (get info in the vendors section) he offers a ih8mud discount that really helps. Good luck in your search.

 

[slcfj62]

Any 60 series is 20+ years old. Most have around 200K. So, it is likely that there are going to be some deferred maintenance that will need attention, unless you buy from a Cruiser Head that has taken care of those details. You really need to take someone with you that knows these trucks and what to look out for. If possible, get one from the southwest that is rust free. Dealing with rust is almost worse than dealing with an engine or tranny overhaul. And for 7K you should be able to get a rust free rig in great condition. You will still most likely have a few surprizes, maybe a radiator, maybe an alternator, maybe some front end parts, but if you have it checked out thoroughly by someone that knows these rigs, you should be able to get a really good one in your price range.

 

[bperry83]

Thanks..

whats a normal engine life expectancy of one of these rigs considering it's been fairly well maintained.

(I'm currently looking at a rig that had a stage 1 done over at TLC in 2005. It has about 175,000 miles on it. says theres some rust though, CA car) do i even consider it knowing theres some rust; to what extent i do not know the buy has not responded)

any other obvious things i should be weary or stay away from?

thank you

 

[sirenmoses]

175k is nothing. Search for the thread about how many miles: there are many rigs on this board with 250+.

What I've seen on my 60's: rear lower tailgate rust & body work, A pillar rust, saggy suspension.

What I've had done in the past 8 years on both rigs: radiator, smog pump, power steering pump, valve cover gaskets, oil galley plug sealed, water pump. Total price for rigs & fixes: about the top end of what you've got to spend.

In your price range you should be able to find a loaded 60 in G or VG shape.

HTH. If you spend some time lurking/searching through threads in this section you'll find answers to many of your questions: almost a 3 college credit class worth.

 

[fliphkd778]

My favorite and in my opinion best diagnostic tool is the vacuum gauge. In addition to a compression test, one can make a very accurate estimate to an engine's health. Just pop it on an intake port and take it for a spin.

 

[MJ_Oregon]

Check your PM's

Mike

 

[Ducks]

Prices and condition of the vehicle vary depending on where you are at. If you let us know your general location we might be able to help you better. For the price range you are looking at there should be no rust and the engine should run great. Run away from rust. Look for fj60s in the Northwest or California. Things that I have had to do on my cruiser over the last two years include replacing the radiator, heater core, and fixing the EGR pipe exhaust leak. With the help of the Factory Service Manuals (FSMs) and 'MUD, you can do all of these tasks on your own. You may also be able to connect up with people that live near you through 'MUD. People in general are very willing to help out.

Good luck on your search.

 

[Ducks]

Also check out the FAQ page. There are some threads there on buying a 60.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-...***-start-here-come-back-often-*********.html

As for gas mileage, I got 15 -17 mpg before I started modifying my fj60. If the carb is in good shape, than mileage should be around there.

 

[roundrocktom]

If you're local, you're welcome to stop by and walk around the 60 as it is easier to "point things out".
There are some rigs that are listed for ever on Craigslist..... "new paint" and $6000 leave me a little
scared (what kind of rust will come through that new paint in a year?).

Other times you can find a 'beater' for $2000 -- Ya, it has been badly abused and needs $$$$ in work.

Keep your eyes open and you can find a deal for $4000 that has a lot of good toyota parts on it, and
ready to go but needs washing and waxing.

I'm pretty rare on the boards as I have kept the FJ60 stock. Moderate wheeling, bounced off a few snow
banks while in Northern California & Nevada. Cruiser is back in Texas. No rust, but need to get 20 years
of dirt out of the frame rails to check everything is 100%.