On a recent trip in our 2020 LC I noticed a vibration in the steering wheel when coming down a mountain pass under moderate braking at +/-80mph. By moderate I mean approaching slower traffic and easing on the brakes to scrub some speed- nothing even close to a panic stop. The 200 is my wife's car and has been extremely well cared for, never been offroad and only has 25k miles. The steering wheel vibration only happens when braking at higher speeds. I tried to recreate it with harder braking at 50-60mph and the vibration was not noticeable. Only happens when going above 70 or so. Air pressure in all tires is good, It tracks straight, drives perfect in every other way. I read one thing that said it could be a warped rotor? Open to other thoughts. Hoping to get a better understanding of potential causes. Not real excited about working with the dealer to figure this out (anyone got a shop they like in Charlotte, NC?). Thanks.
Braking Vibration at Higher Speeds (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter scrambler85
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It's pad material unevenly deposited on the front rotors. Commonly called warped rotors, but the rotors are not actually bent. Yours is just a light deposit, so when you get on the brakes hard, you don't notice it. There are lots of threads on this. Sometimes you can remove the deposits by doing what's called bedding the brakes. A search on here will tell you how, but it's basically several hard stops and then NOT keeping your foot on the brakes when hot. Holding the brakes when they are hot is usually what causes the pad deposits. If the vibration bothers you and can't be fixed by re-bedding, either machining or replacing the rotors is the fix, as noted by @Ovis .
And, BTW, coming down mountain passes at 80 will heat the brakes up more than enough to cause pad deposits on the rotors if you don't use engine braking.
And, BTW, coming down mountain passes at 80 will heat the brakes up more than enough to cause pad deposits on the rotors if you don't use engine braking.
Mine had the same thing as you described same year, same mileage. If I read it correctly, Lexus dealer turned/cut the rotors on the car.
I suppose it was less labor than removing the rotor and avoided parts cost.
Once the warpage or material is cut out, the brakes are fine now. I have heard some say you can turn it two times, depending on minimum thickness.
You will see some say just replace the rotor completely, and they are not that expensive but at the dealer it will be.
I suppose it was less labor than removing the rotor and avoided parts cost.
Once the warpage or material is cut out, the brakes are fine now. I have heard some say you can turn it two times, depending on minimum thickness.
You will see some say just replace the rotor completely, and they are not that expensive but at the dealer it will be.
Similar issue around 40k miles I needed a brake job new pads and rotor turn.
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Thanks for the responses. I guess it's good to hear it's not an uncommon problem and there's a consensus on the solution...
Of course it depends on driving style, but what kind of brake life do most people see with these trucks? Ive always gotten 50-60k out of the brakes on our 06 Sequoia so figured that might be a good comparable?
The pass we were going down was Fancy Gap on I77 in VA- not like a pass in the west where constant braking is needed to keep speeds in check. On Fancy Gap I can feather the gas to maintain 80 and don't need brakes to hold back speed on that hill- I'm scratching my head about when the pads got heated up enough to cause the deposits. Oh well.
I'll try rebedding the brakes. If that doesn't work it looks like I can get OEM rotors for about $90. I can swap those in myself and avoid the downtime of getting the rotors turned if the rotors are likely to be the problem so will probably go that route- and hopefully avoid the dealer diagnostic fiasco.
Of course it depends on driving style, but what kind of brake life do most people see with these trucks? Ive always gotten 50-60k out of the brakes on our 06 Sequoia so figured that might be a good comparable?
The pass we were going down was Fancy Gap on I77 in VA- not like a pass in the west where constant braking is needed to keep speeds in check. On Fancy Gap I can feather the gas to maintain 80 and don't need brakes to hold back speed on that hill- I'm scratching my head about when the pads got heated up enough to cause the deposits. Oh well.
I'll try rebedding the brakes. If that doesn't work it looks like I can get OEM rotors for about $90. I can swap those in myself and avoid the downtime of getting the rotors turned if the rotors are likely to be the problem so will probably go that route- and hopefully avoid the dealer diagnostic fiasco.
I don't think you can re-bed to correct this problem, just wasting pads.
I believe mine was done as a customer concern and repaired as warranty / no cost. Or perhaps the cost was low, like 1 hr of labor which some may go for.
YMMV ..
It may be worth inquiring but you would probably not get new rotors out of the dealer.
I believe mine was done as a customer concern and repaired as warranty / no cost. Or perhaps the cost was low, like 1 hr of labor which some may go for.
YMMV ..
It may be worth inquiring but you would probably not get new rotors out of the dealer.
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I bought mine used with 14400miles on it. At 40k had bad wheel shutter at all speeds. I was confused as brake problems to me in past were felt in pedal first. Dealer diagnosed front brakes did pad and rotor turn. I am now at 86K and still going strong. So not really sure yet.
That is correct, the problem is from warped rotors. It will only get worst if not corrected.
You can have the rotors machined (turned) or replaced.
Personally I have had this problem several times with the OEM Toyota rotors so now I replaced them with NAPA reactive pads and rotors and have not had the problem reoccur.
Same experience here. Two sets of OEM rotors warped and no amount of bedding would fix them. Around here, places that will turn rotors have gotten so rare that the few remaining want almost as much as a new OEM rotor to do it. I switched to Powerstop and have been happy so far.
I don't know why anyone thinks rotors don't actually warp, and blame pad deposits. Ever seen a rotor on a lathe? A warped rotor is clearly not totally flat- the lathe is what flattens it out.
Less metal mass in a turned/lathed rotor = easier to warp again. I always replace rater than turn/lathe rotors. OE are pretty cheap.
Less metal mass in a turned/lathed rotor = easier to warp again. I always replace rater than turn/lathe rotors. OE are pretty cheap.
