Brakes (1 Viewer)

[ATwoZ]

So went in for a quick free tire rotation at my tire center and had them check brake wear...apparently averaging 2mm on the left side (front and rear) and about 3mm on the right side....so sounds like I probably need new brakes!

I've seen in some other posts that OEM Rotors may be best and then some mixed opinions on OEM or Stop tech pads.

Are there any other thoughts out there for which parts? Tundra TRD worth the swap? Our rig isn't massively weighed down (skids and sliders, no bumpers or drawers) and not typically towing. However, living in CO we do a bit of mountain driving even when not offroading.

I've never changed brakes before, is this a big job, small job? A little hesitant since it's ya know the thing that stops vehicle, but open to learning something new too.

Thanks!

 

[linuxgod]

Not sure your mileage but I rarely trust a shop that tells me my pads are low. I always want to see them myself.

I have cryo-treated Centric rotors and HD fleet pads (similar to TRD pads), which ran about $500 through MRT Motorsports (one of the MUD vendors). IMO if you don't tow or do anything which really really heats the brakes I think you should stick with ceramic pads as the HD ones groan when you're creeping at a stop light and they create a lot of dust.

 

[ATwoZ]

Not sure your mileage but I rarely trust a shop that tells me my pads are low. I always want to see them myself.

I have cryo-treated Centric rotors and HD fleet pads (similar to TRD pads), which ran about $500 through MRT Motorsports (one of the MUD vendors). IMO if you don't tow or do anything which really really heats the brakes I think you should stick with ceramic pads as the HD ones groan when you're creeping at a stop light and they create a lot of dust.

I don't think the brakes have ever been done. I bought it at 105k and it's now about 127k, is 20k miles reasonable for a set of pads with mountain driving and offroading? When I bought the car the pads were in good shape, but don't think they were new either.

OEM aren't ceramic, right? You'd still do ceramic over the OEM?

 

[ATwoZ]

I just watched to see the process, is this pretty accurate? Looks somewhat straightforward, but I realize I'm missing some of the specialty tools etc it looks like too.

 

[tominboise]

I don't think the brakes have ever been done. I bought it at 105k and it's now about 127k, is 20k miles reasonable for a set of pads with mountain driving and offroading? When I bought the car the pads were in good shape, but don't think they were new either.

OEM aren't ceramic, right? You'd still do ceramic over the OEM?

The brakes have undoubtedly been replaced at least twice in 127k miles, maybe 3 or 4 times. These things are heavy and the brakes aren't really big enough. A brake job is fairly quick and easy. I would rate it a 2 project if you have some experience, tools and know how to use both.

I have Centric rotors with OEM pads on the front of mine and OEM rotors and pads on the rear. It stops fine but I don't tow nor do I have armor other than slee sliders. Next time I will like buy a Powerstop kit with their rotors and pads.

 

[Sandroad]

Brakes are one of the most common threads on Mud. Here are 3 with some good info.

Could use some brake input.....

Rotors and Brakes

LC200 LX570 brake rotor replacement time - go OEM, tundra, or aftermarket?

Pads and rotors are easy to replace, assuming you have the right tools, everything goes well, and there are no other issues like stuck pistons or damages parts, or stuck bolts. It's unlikely the brakes have never been done at 127K miles. The right tools include safe ways to support the truck with wheels off, a torque wrench, good selection of standard mechanics tools, and clear, unhurried thinking. As you are doing the job, if anything doesn't make sense or seems wrong, post up the question with photos. Someone will help out. Someone on here posted a list of part number for a brake job with OEM parts. A search would probably turn that up.

 

[linuxgod]

I don't think the brakes have ever been done. I bought it at 105k and it's now about 127k, is 20k miles reasonable for a set of pads with mountain driving and offroading? When I bought the car the pads were in good shape, but don't think they were new either.

OEM aren't ceramic, right? You'd still do ceramic over the OEM?

I have 121k and I replaced mine at about 90k-95k. I still have tons of pad left. I tow a lot and drive in the city when it towing.

OEM are ceramic pads. They are quieter but pad material wears faster. If someone did cheap brake pads in a prior replacement they might not last very long, but I’d expect good Toyota pads to go 50-60k at a minimum and quite likely double that

 

[ATwoZ]

Sorry, should have clarified my statement, when I got the rig at 105k the brakes had plenty of life, it's now 20k miles later. I agree undoubtedly they'd been replaced previously.

 

[rscoleman]

Bought a used 2016 in 2018 with 14400 miles. Brakes made it to 45K and needed to be replaced. I had shudder in front that I did not feel in steering but felt in seat. I tow small boat monthly about 75 miles on average. Most of my driving is grocery runs with monthly 480mile round trip and the boat towing. I had Toyota dealer do first brake pads. Next time I will do this job myself. As noted not difficult unless something is not working right. Good Luck

 

[ATwoZ]

Thanks all, from what I saw in the video the fronts seem straightforward, but the rears looked like they're a bit more complicated because of the e brake, is that right?

 

[bloc]

Thanks all, from what I saw in the video the fronts seem straightforward, but the rears looked like they're a bit more complicated because of the e brake, is that right?

Yes.

 

[TeCKis300]

Thanks all, from what I saw in the video the fronts seem straightforward, but the rears looked like they're a bit more complicated because of the e brake, is that right?

Yes and no.

The rear has a caliper that's potentially even easier to change pads on.

The e-brake is a different mechanism in the hub of the rotor. Won't have to deal with it unless you're wanting to change the rotor or adjust the e-brake. It's not likely you'll need to change the rear rotor as wear there is really minimal.

 

[CharlieS]

And it is fiddly, but not difficult to pull the rear rotor.

I'd recommend doing it with a friend that has done brakes before. There's nothing magical or difficult about the 200 brakes but if you've never done any brakes before it might be intimidating. And if something goes awry, it helps to have two heads.

I'd also download the factory service manual pages and watch a few videos.

Some examples of common, easy to fix things that happen with this kind of brakes - difficulty getting both pistons to retract all the way, new pads don't seem to fit over the rotors, you forgot what location to put the wear sensor, you pop off the funky spring washer holding the ebrake in place, you can't remember which way to turn the star adjuster wheel, you don't know how tight to adjust the ebrakes on reassembly, that kind of stuff. Easy as pie once you've done/seen it, but scary to a first timer.

Also, if your rotors are stuck on, set aside the BFH - the two threaded holes in the face of the rotor are to insert bolts in to push the rotor off. I showed a friend this tip and it blew his mind how easy it made it to remove a stuck rotor on his Highlander.

 

[linuxgod]

Sorry, should have clarified my statement, when I got the rig at 105k the brakes had plenty of life, it's now 20k miles later. I agree undoubtedly they'd been replaced previously.

I would agree I'd be surprised if the brakes went 120k without a pad swap in there, unless it was all highway

In fairness I don't know what the dealer might have done when they CPO'ed my truck at 48k miles. It's possible they replaced the pads, or just the front pads. When I had my brakes done around the 90k mark (can't quite recall the mileage offhand) the rears were very low (2mm maybe) and the fronts were also low but oddly not quite as much as the rears (maybe 3mm?)

Fairly sure my rig which was in Houston originally was primarily highway use as the PO put 24k/year on it, all with dealer maintenance. I live *just* outside Chicago, so all the driving we do around here is pure city (stop signs every 100-200 yards, traffic lights every 1/2 mile or less, lots of idling, etc) which is hard on the brakes. That's about half my mileage. When we're not in the city the other half is towing a 6000# trailer out west into the mountains and then whatever mountain driving and offroading we can muster. So I managed either 40-45k or 90-95k on my first set of brakes, depending on whether the pads were swapped when the truck was CPO'ed.

 

[Cruisin911]

Could be a good opportunity to upgrade to the bigger tundra/16+ LC brakes. Single biggest upgrade for brakes on the LC, hands down worth every penny.

 

[CharlieS]

Could be a good opportunity to upgrade to the bigger tundra/16+ LC brakes. Single biggest upgrade for brakes on the LC, hands down worth every penny.

Would you suggest that project for someone who has never even done brakes before? It seems like a more advanced project, including parts sourcing, bleeding, etc.

 

[arrivederci]

I plan to replace rotors and pads on my 2013 in the next month or so. I get some pulsing through the pedal and really don't like turning rotors on heavy vehicles as it just further reduces the thermal capacity of the rotor. So I ordered a Stoptech kit 967.44031 (a slotted kit - drilled are bad too as they also reduce thermal capacity) and plan to swap the parking brake shoes while I'm in there. It'll be my first time on the LX570 but I've done lots of brakes on other cars previously. The youtube vids show it is pretty straight forward...

 

[Cruisin911]

Would you suggest that project for someone who has never even done brakes before? It seems like a more advanced project, including parts sourcing, bleeding, etc.

I think its possible. Where are you located? Usually, you can find someone locally that can help you. I am in the Denver area and am more willing to pitch in. It is not a difficult DIY but capabilities vary substantially. Brakes are something you dont want to screw up. That being said, it can be safely done in your garage.

 

[bloc]

I would clarify my statement earlier.. fronts are very easy. Rears require quite a bit of finesse when setting the parking brake, and even more if you are like me and disassemble the whole parking brake system to clean and inspect it. Some special tools help a lot with getting all of the springs out and back in. Setting parking brake lever click number against the specified pounds force of pull, etc. Doing all of this correctly makes a dramatic difference in how well the parking brake works.

Also my whole paradigm is to do rotors any time pads wear out, especially when they are as cheap as ours. Good bedding surfaces, full thermal capacity, fresh restart against uneven pad deposits.

 

[ATwoZ]

I think its possible. Where are you located? Usually, you can find someone locally that can help you. I am in the Denver area and am more willing to pitch in. It is not a difficult DIY but capabilities vary substantially. Brakes are something you dont want to screw up. That being said, it can be safely done in your garage.

He might have been asking for me, I'm in Denver too, right now I'm fighting time as we're planning to leave for AZ this weekend. Super sketch question, but how bad is driving on 2-3MM of pad for a few thousand miles? (and I know answers will vary, and of course assuming the shop wasn't BSing me)