Brake Rotor Replacement/Upgrade Write-Up Done! With Pics!

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Hey Guys

Here is the writeup of my DBA rotor install on my 100 series, figure some of the newbies might enjoy the info and pics:

DBA Rotor Upgrade Details

Thanks
 
nice!

If you're sure it'll be there for a long while and if most everybody is happy with the writeup, I'll put it in the FAQ.
 
nice!

If you're sure it'll be there for a long while

This part i know! :D Yes, it will be there for a long while

and if most everybody is happy with the writeup, I'll put it in the FAQ.

Since you are the only one to reply............ :D
 
Nice write-up. Thanks for taking the time!
 
Good stuff man!
 
Way cool job with pics and everything. I am inspired. Now all I think I need is the Hub SST and at least I can re-pack my own bearings and if anything else looks suspicious, change those rotors and pads.

BIG THANKS Boston Mangler
 
Is this hub SST the same as on the 80? I'm going to send all my 80 stuff to my brother, it'd be nice to know I have access to the correct SST.
 
One thing I didn't see (may be it's there?)
When doing the rear calipers, make sure you pull and regrease the caliper slides, not much point in fitting new rotors and pads and having the slide start sticking 5000 down the road and stuffing your rotors/pads
 
Is this hub SST the same as on the 80? I'm going to send all my 80 stuff to my brother, it'd be nice to know I have access to the correct SST.

SST for the front hub (54mm 6-point socket) is the same for the 60, 80, 100 series, '95 and earlier 4runners/mini 4x4's. The new 4runner/FJC uses a pressed in sealed front bearing whereby the entire bearing and piece it's pressed into is replaced.
 
You can get "SST" at any auto parts store, like CHOW said it is just a big socket...mine was 16 bucks...works great...everything apart two times in a week (busted diff)...
 
If you can't find 54mm, I think 2-1/8 will work fine too.
 
Yeah, I've used my 2-1/8" socket to do my 80s, I'm wondering about the funky SST for the rear lockring on the 80. Is there a SST for the rear on the 100 to get to the bearings?
 
Reviving and oldie but goodie thread.

Getting ready to order parts and there seem to be a lot of "Black Diamond" non-re-usable parts for the front end. Kind of a silly question, but is there a kit that you can order with pads, or is it just piece meal?

Have not decided on rotors yet, I like the DBA's but shipping costs are brutal when I can drive to Slee.
Advise: use Toyota pads with Powerstop rotors? Then get the "kit" to replace the seals and nuts and washers that are non-reusable.
 
Going in as deep as the rotors the only thing I can think of that you may want to place is the star washer, but even then I've resused them. Unless you're doing a full job and replacing bearings and races. I'd open it up and see what things look like. If you've got scoring on the bearings, give CDan a call.
 
Thanks Trunk, just did not want to open then have to call Cdan again after the first order. If he is kind enough to ship for free for IH8MUD'ers then I was trying to limit it.

Perhaps I shall open her up and then order - just leave it down for a bit.
 
This is a great write up. I printed it off before I did mine. I recently bought all new rotors (DBA's from Man-A-Fre) but only installed the rears so far. Been waiting for good weather to do the fronts. I picked up all the bearings and seals from Man-A-Fre too, and just to be safe, picked up all the other black diamond parts from the dealer too, with the exception of the outer cap and the bolts. After spending $700 on pads, rotors and bearings, the other parts are truly incidental (like less than $50). I also replaced the rear slide pins and seals. The old ones were nasty and very sticky.

The only frustration on the rear is that the metal clips that hold the pads are different. In other words there are two different pair for each side, and the FSM isn't clear on the positions. More detail on that would be helpful.

On the DBA rotors - I don't know if they stop better than before - definitely smoother - but they do what I expect. They stop.
 
What is the Difference?? DBA

Guys
Nice write up.

I am going to order a set of the DBA 4000 Series rotors and the pads / accessories that comes with.

What is the big difference in performance/durability between slotted and then, slotted x-drilled?

My 2004 LC100 w/76K miles is a daily driver. Pulls a trailer 10% of the time and spends ~10% of its time in light off-road (fire road / trails) usage. I am looking for durability more so than performance gains since I never had a problem with the OEM and the DBA's are better regardless of which version you get.

Thanks fellas.
 
I'm also interested in the performance differences between the OEM front rotors and after-market (Slee's or otherwise).

I'm going to need to replace my front pads soon and my rotors are a bit warped. They can be turned, but I'm wondering whether it's worth turning them or just replacing them since I "hear" that the warp will return pretty quickly.
 

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