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Brake Rotor Damage

Discussion in '100-Series Cruisers' started by C6H12O6, May 16, 2018 at 9:40 PM.

  1. C6H12O6

    C6H12O6

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    Brakes just started sounding a little funky. I've been getting an intermittent brake warning light, but figured it was just the pads were all a little low and the fluid was borderline. Last week, I started hearing a faint squeak noise when turning and coasting at just the right speed. It honestly sounded like it was coming from the rear, but those pads look great.

    Within the last couple days, I've noticed a little grinding noise, but not all the time. Figured it was time for new pads after owning the truck for two years and 25K miles. Still braking fine. No indicator noise. Checked the fronts, and this:

    IMG_6643.jpg

    This is on the PS rotor. You can see in this pic that the outer pad is toast. I didn't take a pic of it out, but it's down to the metal on the lower side of the pad. It was not wearing evenly. Outer was significantly less than the inner pad. You can just make out the pad backing metal is right up on the rotor. At the top of the pic, notice the anti-rattle spring has broken and was wedged into the caliper, rubbing a smooth ring on the outer rim of the rotor.

    IMG_6647.jpg

    Here is what's left of the spring. Not sure if a piece broke off and caused things to bind up, or if this is all a result of the uneven wear and was just a coincidence.
    IMG_6648.jpg
     
  2. C6H12O6

    C6H12O6

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    Only good part of the afternoon. Gotta love her enthusiasm. She jacked the rear up enough to pull the tire all by herself, removed the wheel mostly on her own (after I broke the lug nuts loose - she is nine, after all), reinstalled the wheel after I checked the brakes, and tightened the lug nuts down with the torque wrench.

    IMG_6637.jpg
     
  3. Spike555

    Spike555

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    New pads for sure, I run rotors with grooves and do not think twice about it, it's still good. The new pad will wear into the grooves.
    You may have a bad caliper, did it squeeze back fine when you put the new pads on? Or was there a ton of resistance?
     
  4. C6H12O6

    C6H12O6

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    So, probably need a new rotor. My cheap, plastic caliper measured 31 mm at the outer lip that has formed over the years. I can feel the lower, dark band is noticeably thinner, so I'm guessing it's below the 30 mm minimum. Even if it was close, that discoloration looks deep. Not worth the risk for the $62 a new OEM one costs. If I'm going to do one, I'll probably just do them both for that price. Just over 100K miles, no record of bearing service from the PO, and I haven't done it yet.

    The PO took the truck to Les Schwab for brakes, so I'm 99% these calipers are their loaded rebuilt junk they throw on there instead of just replacing the pads, which takes all of 15 minutes. Bastards. New OEM calipers are $299 online. Napa Eclipse calipers are $105. Hmmm...

    If I'm going to tackle rotors and a repack at minimum, is it just worth it to order up new bearings and do it right? Seems a little early at 100K miles. No idea about the shape the bearings are in. I've rebuilt my old 80 front end, and it wasn't too bad. Similar on the 100, minus the birfs, of course? Need to go search and read up a bit. IH8IFS.
     
  5. C6H12O6

    C6H12O6

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    Lots of resistance. I got the pad out, but just barely. The pad was in there crooked and things just didn't want to move. I'm guessing it's shot. Trying to decide if I should replace both calipers or just the one. I'd rebuild them if they were the OEM calipers, but I'm not throwing good money after bad on these crappy calipers. Even the Napa calipers would be an upgrade.

    As to the rotors, I'd probably just run it if they were just grooved. I ran some rotors on my 80 after a rock got stuck in there and cut a 1/4" groove just at the edge of the pad. They measure 1 mm over minimum spec at the top and there is a noticeable taper to them toward the center. I'd much rather not replace them, as it's a pain. I'm off school in a month and will have plenty of time to repack the front end. I could squeeze it in this weekend, but I don't think I can get parts in time and downtime is a pain. I'm tempted to just throw the cheap calipers and some OEM pads on there and run it.
     
  6. Spike555

    Spike555

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    In my experience wheel bearings last forever and never need replacing when properly serviced.
     
  7. Spike555

    Spike555

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    I am a firm believer in always doing brake components in pairs, so if you're replacing one caliper do both, one rotor do both.
     
  8. C6H12O6

    C6H12O6

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    I agree. I'm not really considering doing just the one side. Not sure why I typed that. The rotors are cheap. The calipers, not as much. I had pretty good luck with the Napa calipers on the 80 and other people here on 'MUD seemed to like them just fine. That's probably where I'm leaning. Cheap calipers, OEM pads and rotors, move the current bearings over and repack when I have it all apart. Should be able to sort that all out by the weekend.
     
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  9. Spike555

    Spike555

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    I can see it being an emergency and replacing only one side because it's 11 at night and you have to drive it to work in the morning kinda thing.
    But otherwise, I always brakes by the axle, all new for the whole axle unless zombies are coming then screw it hurry and do what you gotta do and get going.
     
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  10. C6H12O6

    C6H12O6

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    Thought I could get a couple more days out of it while parts were on order. Nope. Two blocks from my house last night, something came loose inside and the metal-on-metal screech was horrendous. Good thing all the parts are showing up this afternoon. New OEM pads, OEM rotors, OEM reman calipers (cheaper than what I could get at Napa after they charged shipping for the special order), and assorted OEM springs, hardware, thrust washers, lock washers, gaskets, etc. $625 and I should be back in business by the end of the day tomorrow and good for another hundred thousand miles.
     
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