Hey guys, how many miles before you needed a brake job? Do you always change the rotors? Did you do the front and back at the same time?
Thanks,
Carl
Thanks,
Carl
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I bought my LC with 49k miles CPO. I don't know if the dealer replaced the pads at that time or not. I suspect from the history that the truck was mainly highway/light suburban driven for the first 2 years. I also suspect the front pads were replaced at 49k miles, as when I asked my mechanic to take a look at ~65k miles he said the rears had more wear than the front (about 45% vs 55%).
Too many variables to specify miles. Just take a peek at the pads every oil change. No need to change rotors unless there is a problem. Do the front/rear pads based on wear, not necessarily both at the same time.
- Thread starter
- #4
Thanks guys!
Just had a quote from a local shop for brakes and rotors. OEM’s $1000. Seems high. I’m a newbie to LC maintenance cost and would perhaps do it myself if time allows....but have four kids. Time suckers. Is this a reasonable price??
Seems extremely high.
That’s what I thought. Now I’m wondering how much my local stealer would be.
Anyone else weigh in on the cost of a full brake job??
I just had pads/rotors replaced all the way around. My pad/rotors were about 450 and he charged me about 150 to install. So Total cost was about 600.00
I upgraded to a slightly more expensive pad/rotor combo
I upgraded to a slightly more expensive pad/rotor combo
The OEM parts (pads and rotors all around) would be around $400. Figure a couple hours labor and some tax and shop supplies and something close to $700 seems more reasonable.
Appreciate the timely responses. I will try to barter with them. If not I’ll look at another shop or find the time to do them myself
What’s the difficulty scale of doing the full change out of rotors and pads??
What’s the difficulty scale of doing the full change out of rotors and pads??
The only hard part is that the rear rotors incorporate drum type parking brakes that should be inspected, and serviced if they are old or gross (rusty, contaminated, full of grit). If the linings are worn, just go ahead and install new ones with new springs and adjusters. They are a PITA to work on, especially if you have never touched a drum brake before. There is a recent thread on adjusting them.
Also if the fluid is three years old it needs to be flushed, don’t just push all the deteriorated fluid back up into the system when you retract the caliper pistons.
It’s not hard to replace brakes, it just takes extra time and care to do it correctly. Some people hate doing brakes, I actually prefer doing it myself compared to having a shop tech do it, because he is rushed and will never take the time to pay attention to details.
John Davies
Spokane WA
Also if the fluid is three years old it needs to be flushed, don’t just push all the deteriorated fluid back up into the system when you retract the caliper pistons.
It’s not hard to replace brakes, it just takes extra time and care to do it correctly. Some people hate doing brakes, I actually prefer doing it myself compared to having a shop tech do it, because he is rushed and will never take the time to pay attention to details.
John Davies
Spokane WA
John - you are exactly right. Mine is actually back at the shop right now getting new parking brake shoes
That is one reason my parking brake wouldn’t adjust on the new rotors
