Brake problems

[AnyMal]

What do new brake rotors compared to 20k mile examples prove? EBCs will do the same thing. I’ve used them.

Also there is no need to cut through the paint on the rotor when bedding in pads. Not sure if they still do but EBC used to put an extra abrasive material on their pad faces to accomplish this..

Since we apparently want to compare to sports cars, find me a high end braking system that comes with painted rotor faces.

Just disproving your statement that the coating is magical and superior. But i guess you missed the point...

Is that why you made this post? It was the first result on google for OEM rotors...
Have fun babying your oem brakes, and please go ahead and bloc me. Get it?

Too much hype on every square inch of Mud to have a normal conversation.
According the the "experts" nothing is as good as Toyota. No matter what you are talking about.
Thats the medicine for every ailment. Toyota, the name in performance? Not at all.

 

[AnyMal]

If anyone is wondering, I consulted several actual experts before switching things out.
Do your own research, don't believe anything i say.

 

[bloc]

Just disproving your statement that the coating is magical and superior. But i guess you missed the point...

Is that why you made this post? It was the first result on google for OEM rotors...
Have fun babying your oem brakes, and please go ahead and bloc me. Get it?

Too much hype on every square inch of Mud to have a normal conversation.
According the the "experts" nothing is as good as Toyota. No matter what you are talking about.
Thats the medicine for every ailment. Toyota, the name in performance? Not at all.

Later in that thread it became clear it was an issue with the overwhelmed stock pads, not the rotors.

New genuine Toyota rotors installed with TRD (rebranded stoptech) pads and that never happened again.

Side note: thicker paint slows heat transfer, that’s why Toyota puts the paint on quite thin, and performance rotors aren’t painted at all, except for dots of heat indicating paint. Also why the EBC paint will burn off too.

I also just remembered, with those EBC rotors on a past car the paint was just blasted on, leading to paint runs on the hub face. Which prevented the rotors being parallel to the hub face. I had to sand off the paint to get them to run true. Poor quality, hopefully they improved their processes. But I’m glad you are happy with your purchase. Please report back in 20k miles to compare corrosion.

 

[AnyMal]

Later in that thread it became clear it was an issue with the overwhelmed stock pads, not the rotors.

New genuine Toyota rotors installed with TRD (rebranded stoptech) pads and that never happened again.

Side note: thicker paint slows heat transfer, that’s why Toyota puts the paint on quite thin, and performance rotors aren’t painted at all, except for dots of heat indicating paint. Also why the EBC paint will burn off too.

I also just remembered, with those EBC rotors on a past car the paint was just blasted on, leading to paint runs on the hub face. Which prevented the rotors being parallel to the hub face. I had to sand off the paint to get them to run true. Poor quality, hopefully they improved their processes. But I’m glad you are happy with your purchase. Please report back in 20k miles to compare corrosion.

The coating is actually used for the break in process and also doubles as a check verification for pad distribution across the rotor face on first run, but I'm sure you knew that... Advantage EBC. Specially considering the first burnishing is the most important.

Also did i claim that it will magically last forever? No, you did that. And you were proven wrong after just 20k! (so does every other photo on the internet)
In addition, I love how your "gotcha moment" is literally the EBC coating will fail just like the Toyota did. Yeah, neither is magic and i beat on my brakes.

No paint runs on my hub face, but i hope you didn't try to clean them off with BC as the instructions specifically warn against?

The hub face is supposed to wear, and will wear no matter what rotor you run because of toyota s***ty stud bore tolerance from the factory which, unfortunately other manufacturers have to follow to be "drop in identical". That is another issue i fixed after testing, and unlike fanboys here I don't claim EBC are using a miraculous and fairy dust and will be clean forever. But what i will do, is grease my hub face, now that it is lug true and wont slip.

It will def wear and perhaps the T coating is better, but i didn't buy them for the hub face coating. I bought it for the slots and pads and the full coating is bonus.
And also since T doesn't make any more aggressive rotors (hence why nobody on Mud believes they are good) sheep gonna sheep i guess, despite literally every real performance branding shipping slotted and drilled options, I couldn't go OEM and try to experiment with which pads work well together as you and teck have been doing. I just bought a package thats meant to do what it does, stop a heavy ass truck and run pads true with hopefully better heat dissipation.

Here is where the rotor slop witnessed the hub face and the exact same phenomenon on the oem hub face.
Despite me absolutely murdering the EBC in testing to a level i never abused the oem, prior to fitting my new stud bushings.
Just to compare, empirically what im doing, and not reading Toyota fluff pieces on mud:

Yes it will wear, its put on pretty light too. Enough for the shipping to scuff it up in its box. It will wear faster than OEM for sure.
But I don't really care much for how durable that is anyway since i rotate every 5k.
Either way, if you think the Toyota coating will spare you, have a look at your actual hub face.
Everyone here will be rust city, I'm curious why this magical coating wasn't applied to the factory hubs?
Or why the inner coating didn't spare the hub from corrosion?

I cant fight magic with normal conversation. Magic will always win here and im exhausting myself for nothing.
If anyones still reading BTW, i said the OEM rotors were good and still got "challenged" for it.
You literally cannot dislike anything toyota without getting shat on.
Everything is a one up contest, credentialism, and general show boating.

Live your life, buy the brakes you want, and stop being scared by the forum to try new things.
And if you are not doing your own work someone will screw up your coating for you anyway.

After learning what ive learned over the last 4 years, (and unlearning alot of BS along the way) i can tell you 80% of rigs here are done up completely incorrectly.
Including mine, due to my poor wheel selection and being scared out of 34" LTs early on.
@bloc is actually an exception here with a really well built rig, but hes still on the Toyota teet and using king suspension.
If all this kool aid is being drunk, why are yall even modding the ****ing thing? Its perfect, best truck in the entire world and you must be an aerospace engineer to disagree with anything the toyota team does, even though half the decisions are made by bean counters and sales. (like removing a pad return spring to save 10c)

I will add one more thing, my E92 335is was built better and more solid in almost every single way than my LX.
Those are not just fighting words here, those are murdering words.
This truck is not a gift from god, i have TONS of issues in mine. They come out of the factory with a ridiculous lean for gods sake. Every single one.
Every week there is someone asking how to fix it.

And yeah, the brakes ****ing suck ass. End of story.

 

[pattay]

The coating is actually used for the break in process and also doubles as a check verification for pad distribution across the rotor face on first run, but I'm sure you knew that... Advantage EBC. Specially considering the first burnishing is the most important.

Also did i claim that it will magically last forever? No, you did that. And you were proven wrong after just 20k! (so does every other photo on the internet)
In addition, I love how your "gotcha moment" is literally the EBC coating will fail just like the Toyota did. Yeah, neither is magic and i beat on my brakes.

No paint runs on my hub face, but i hope you didn't try to clean them off with BC as the instructions specifically warn against?

The hub face is supposed to wear, and will wear no matter what rotor you run because of toyota s***ty stud bore tolerance from the factory which, unfortunately other manufacturers have to follow to be "drop in identical". That is another issue i fixed after testing, and unlike fanboys here I don't claim EBC are using a miraculous and fairy dust and will be clean forever. But what i will do, is grease my hub face, now that it is lug true and wont slip.

It will def wear and perhaps the T coating is better, but i didn't buy them for the hub face coating. I bought it for the slots and pads and the full coating is bonus.
And also since T doesn't make any more aggressive rotors (hence why nobody on Mud believes they are good) sheep gonna sheep i guess, despite literally every real performance branding shipping slotted and drilled options, I couldn't go OEM and try to experiment with which pads work well together as you and teck have been doing. I just bought a package thats meant to do what it does, stop a heavy ass truck and run pads true with hopefully better heat dissipation.

Here is where the rotor slop witnessed the hub face and the exact same phenomenon on the oem hub face.
Despite me absolutely murdering the EBC in testing to a level i never abused the oem, prior to fitting my new stud bushings.
Just to compare, empirically what im doing, and not reading Toyota fluff pieces on mud:

View attachment 3170682

View attachment 3170679


Yes it will wear, its put on pretty light too. Enough for the shipping to scuff it up in its box. It will wear faster than OEM for sure.
But I don't really care much for how durable that is anyway since i rotate every 5k.
Either way, if you think the Toyota coating will spare you, have a look at your actual hub face.
Everyone here will be rust city, I'm curious why this magical coating wasn't applied to the factory hubs?
Or why the inner coating didn't spare the hub from corrosion?

I cant fight magic with normal conversation. Magic will always win here and im exhausting myself for nothing.
If anyones still reading BTW, i said the OEM rotors were good and still got "challenged" for it.
You literally cannot dislike anything toyota without getting shat on.
Everything is a one up contest, credentialism, and general show boating.

Live your life, buy the brakes you want, and stop being scared by the forum to try new things.
And if you are not doing your own work someone will screw up your coating for you anyway.

After learning what ive learned over the last 4 years, (and unlearning alot of BS along the way) i can tell you 80% of rigs here are done up completely incorrectly.
Including mine, due to my poor wheel selection and being scared out of 34" LTs early on.
@bloc is actually an exception here with a really well built rig, but hes still on the Toyota teet and using king suspension.
If all this kool aid is being drunk, why are yall even modding the f***ing thing? Its perfect, best truck in the entire world and you must be an aerospace engineer to disagree with anything the toyota team does, even though half the decisions are made by bean counters and sales. (like removing a pad return spring to save 10c)

I will add one more thing, my E92 335is was built better and more solid in almost every single way than my LX.
Those are not just fighting words here, those are murdering words.
This truck is not a gift from god, i have TONS of issues in mine. They come out of the factory with a ridiculous lean for gods sake. Every single one.
Every week there is someone asking how to fix it.

And yeah, the brakes f***ing suck ass. End of story.

If you hate on it so much, why do you own it?

 

[05ls430518]

The coating is actually used for the break in process and also doubles as a check verification for pad distribution across the rotor face on first run, but I'm sure you knew that... Advantage EBC. Specially considering the first burnishing is the most important.

Also did i claim that it will magically last forever? No, you did that. And you were proven wrong after just 20k! (so does every other photo on the internet)
In addition, I love how your "gotcha moment" is literally the EBC coating will fail just like the Toyota did. Yeah, neither is magic and i beat on my brakes.

No paint runs on my hub face, but i hope you didn't try to clean them off with BC as the instructions specifically warn against?

The hub face is supposed to wear, and will wear no matter what rotor you run because of toyota s***ty stud bore tolerance from the factory which, unfortunately other manufacturers have to follow to be "drop in identical". That is another issue i fixed after testing, and unlike fanboys here I don't claim EBC are using a miraculous and fairy dust and will be clean forever. But what i will do, is grease my hub face, now that it is lug true and wont slip.

It will def wear and perhaps the T coating is better, but i didn't buy them for the hub face coating. I bought it for the slots and pads and the full coating is bonus.
And also since T doesn't make any more aggressive rotors (hence why nobody on Mud believes they are good) sheep gonna sheep i guess, despite literally every real performance branding shipping slotted and drilled options, I couldn't go OEM and try to experiment with which pads work well together as you and teck have been doing. I just bought a package thats meant to do what it does, stop a heavy ass truck and run pads true with hopefully better heat dissipation.

Here is where the rotor slop witnessed the hub face and the exact same phenomenon on the oem hub face.
Despite me absolutely murdering the EBC in testing to a level i never abused the oem, prior to fitting my new stud bushings.
Just to compare, empirically what im doing, and not reading Toyota fluff pieces on mud:

View attachment 3170682

View attachment 3170679


Yes it will wear, its put on pretty light too. Enough for the shipping to scuff it up in its box. It will wear faster than OEM for sure.
But I don't really care much for how durable that is anyway since i rotate every 5k.
Either way, if you think the Toyota coating will spare you, have a look at your actual hub face.
Everyone here will be rust city, I'm curious why this magical coating wasn't applied to the factory hubs?
Or why the inner coating didn't spare the hub from corrosion?

I cant fight magic with normal conversation. Magic will always win here and im exhausting myself for nothing.
If anyones still reading BTW, i said the OEM rotors were good and still got "challenged" for it.
You literally cannot dislike anything toyota without getting shat on.
Everything is a one up contest, credentialism, and general show boating.

Live your life, buy the brakes you want, and stop being scared by the forum to try new things.
And if you are not doing your own work someone will screw up your coating for you anyway.

After learning what ive learned over the last 4 years, (and unlearning alot of BS along the way) i can tell you 80% of rigs here are done up completely incorrectly.
Including mine, due to my poor wheel selection and being scared out of 34" LTs early on.
@bloc is actually an exception here with a really well built rig, but hes still on the Toyota teet and using king suspension.
If all this kool aid is being drunk, why are yall even modding the f***ing thing? Its perfect, best truck in the entire world and you must be an aerospace engineer to disagree with anything the toyota team does, even though half the decisions are made by bean counters and sales. (like removing a pad return spring to save 10c)

I will add one more thing, my E92 335is was built better and more solid in almost every single way than my LX.
Those are not just fighting words here, those are murdering words.
This truck is not a gift from god, i have TONS of issues in mine. They come out of the factory with a ridiculous lean for gods sake. Every single one.
Every week there is someone asking how to fix it.

And yeah, the brakes f***ing suck ass. End of story.

Hahahahahahahaha did you just say a poverty pack bmw is better than a top tier luxury truck.

 

[bloc]

and im exhausting myself for nothing.

Aka tilting at windmills.

 

[AnyMal]

Hahahahahahahaha did you just say a poverty pack bmw is better than a top tier luxury truck.

Poverty pack? Now thats a joke. At the time it was better than the M3 and ppl are still tuning them with much success and longevity.
And yeah, it was solid as a rock.
The M4 i got at 23 years old after that was garbage though.

But again the LC/ LX doesnt have QC issues? The ones peeling everywher?
What are you smoking exactly?
Its robust, its again not this unicorn everyone here thinks it is.

 

[AnyMal]

If you hate on it so much, why do you own it?

Reliability. Its my second LX actually. I love the truck, but it has a lot of issues.
What were my options Though. Brand new Tahoe? Used escalade? A LR product?
G wagen? Everyone of those with hypothetical Toyota reliability is a better choice depending on usage and not horribly outdated off the lot.

Id be in a new defender in a heartbeat If that were the case.

But for reliability, you have many tradeoffs. Addressing shortcomings is not hate, its reality we all have to deal with. Brakes being a big one. Tundra bbk proves the point.
the brakes are no good, specially earlier years. Undersized, as confirmed by toyota changing the size up front. You know, the same faultless and genius Toyota that knows all.

 

[AnyMal]

Lol Jeff is my hero.

 

[05ls430518]

Poverty pack? Now thats a joke. At the time it was better than the M3 and ppl are still tuning them with much success and longevity.
And yeah, it was solid as a rock.
The M4 i got at 23 years old after that was garbage though.

But again the LC/ LX doesnt have QC issues? The ones peeling everywher?
What are you smoking exactly?
Its robust, its again not this unicorn everyone here thinks it is.

I never said the LX was a unicorn its far from perfect, it needs a sc from factory, 6 pot brakes up front, better nav infotainment acreen situation. Yes it's a poverty pack bmw it's what people get when they can't afford an expensive bmw. Same as a Lexus ES.

 

[LX Cruiser]

But for reliability, you have many tradeoffs.

I see it the other way: most other manufacturers sacrifice long-term dependability for new, untested features. My Tundra has low payload and gets poor fuel economy, but it is far and away the most likely in the segment to never give me problems. It has never given me any issues, and the interior is dead silent at all speeds. The plastic does scuff easily though, and the exterior paint is thin. That used to be a Toyota issue, but everyone's paint sucks now.

I've had my LX for a week, and while the brakes have needed replacing, every single feature (that isn't a regular wear item like brakes) still works as it did when it left the factory. Nothing feels tired or or worn out–headlights, mirrors, AHC, sunroof, etc. Just the brakes, lol.

Since I already bought them, I'm sticking with OEM rotors. If and when they wear out, I will probably look at upgrading those as well.

 

[AnyMal]

I never said the LX was a unicorn its far from perfect, it needs a sc from factory, 6 pot brakes up front, better nav infotainment acreen situation. Yes it's a poverty pack bmw it's what people get when they can't afford an expensive bmw. Same as a Lexus ES.

yeah, you don’t know much about bmws i guess.
the 335is is the better of the two vs e92 M3 and absolutely smokes them tuned.
Also, poverty pack in bmw lexicon means cloth seats no options.
but you right about the LX Needing things.
I do laugh at your use of luxury as a standard there though,
guess you dont know about luxury SUVs either? Lol

 

[MrWheeler460]

Is it a true pulsing in the sense that it happens several times a second or a steady front to back pulse like you're slowly pumping the brakes?

The former problem is most likely brake pad deposits. Try the brake bedding procedure and see if it helps.

The latter problem I described is just the way the truck brakes. I've been fighting it for a while, but the OEM braking system seems to apply the brake in a non-linear way when depressing the petal. It barely has any bite in the beginning, but by the time you really press it far, it grabs hard. It's annoying, and the effect is compounded by the downshifting of the vehicle and it's weight. My body lurches back and forth below 25 MPH because of it. Only solution discussed is getting upgraded rotors & pads which seem to make it more linear, but they come with the compromise of more brake dust, shorter life, and noise.

Yeah its like I'm pumping the brakes about once or twice a second.

 

[05ls430518]

yeah, you don’t know much about bmws i guess.
the 335is is the better of the two vs e92 M3 and absolutely smokes them tuned.
Also, poverty pack in bmw lexicon means cloth seats no options.
but you right about the LX Needing things.
I do laugh at your use of luxury as a standard there though,

yeah, you don’t know much about bmws i guess.
the 335is is the better of the two vs e92 M3 and absolutely smokes them tuned.
Also, poverty pack in bmw lexicon means cloth seats no options.
but you right about the LX Needing things.
I do laugh at your use of luxury as a standard there though,
guess you dont know about luxury SUVs either? Lol

There is no point in arguing with idiots because they drag you down to there level and beat you with experience, so on that note have a great Thanksgiving.