Brake pedal feeling stiff and loose

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jun 2, 2007
Threads
7
Messages
40
Glad to be back on this forum and get answers for my 80, i've come across some scary moments on the road lately, sometimes while driving and as i step on the brake the pedal goes almost all the way down like if they are going out and if i pump it once or twice the regular pressure is back.

My brakefluid level is stable and never have had to fill. It doesn't happen all the time but i have become acustom to the event that it has become second nature to do those steps but i know if i let someone borrow it they will freak out.

Can it possibly be the brake master cyclinder and if so where is it located?:bounce2:
 
Check your caliper to axle brake lines on the front too. I had the same problem and thought it was the MC, but upon examination I found the line on the driver's side had 3 huge bulges in it and is about to burst.

Same problems as you had described. I've since ordered new lines obviously.
 
Just checked that out today and all seem to be ok, no knots or buldges. Where is this MC?
 
Just checked that out today and all seem to be ok, no knots or buldges. Where is this MC?

It's connected to the brake booster which is connected to the driver's side firewall. It's made of aluminum and has the reservoir on top of it that holds brake fluid.
 
Thanks, now i guess i have to find the part and install it, or atleast attempt to install it. Thanks
 
First off, you really need a service manual.
Your MC is directly infront of the driver on the fire wall (it is a dead give away, because of the cap on the resivour that says "use only DOT 3 brake fluid":doh:)

Then I strongly suspect you need to bleed (with lots of fluid, a flush really) your brakes, to get rid of years of accumulated moisture and air.

I will go out on a limb and assume that since you do not know where your Brake master is you should prolly get an experienced hand to help you................don't mess with your brakes if you do not know exactly what you are doing.

find a mudder that lives close buy.....it is a two person job.
 
THanks will do, i;m a little intimidating working on my cruiser, i can work on my 76 IH Scout II from front to back but with my cruiser i feel like its more technical then machnical. But your right i should get a service manual, but kragen, autozone, or pepboys never has any.
 
Your pedal sounds like various women I have dated.

Anyhoo, mine felt like that and I had to bleed the MC.

Either have two people or be a master of yoga.

Good luck.
 
this issue was present wheni first bought it and after a brake job was done the issue went away, now 5000 miles later its back.
 
One thing you will discover is that Mr T designed these rigs so that you can service and repair "most " of the problems you will have under a tree in the middle of nowhere..........just dive in, start with some basic PM and keep the tunes turned down so you you can listen to your girl while she takes you down the road, she will most often make some noise and give you some warning signs before she thinks about leaving you:cheers:
 
But your right i should get a service manual, but kragen, autozone, or pepboys never has any.

Scr*w that; get a (the) real manual.

Call here:

Toyota Publications 1-800-622-2033.

Curtis
 
Don't be ashamed to take you truck in for brake work! If you don't feel completely confident with what is wrong and how to fix it correctly take it in. I have had similar problems and yours could be one of many that are some times hard to diagnose! It was told to me on this board, don't screw around with your brakes!
 
Don't be ashamed to take you truck in for brake work! If you don't feel completely confident with what is wrong and how to fix it correctly take it in. I have had similar problems and yours could be one of many that are some times hard to diagnose! It was told to me on this board, don't screw around with your brakes!

x2...I've taken mine in for brake work for that exact reason. I can change pads and rotors with the best of them...but for some reason I just don't like to "f" with brake lines or that hardware...so I have that done at a local shop full of guys whom I know very well and trust with anything I give them. Same goes for Master Cylinders and the like...I'd rather pay the extra expense and know every single bit of it was done right.

No shame in that...do with your money what you want and what you think is best.
 
I will go out on a limb and assume that since you do not know where your Brake master is you should prolly get an experienced hand to help you................don't mess with your brakes if you do not know exactly what you are doing.

I strongly agree with Marlin375. Every brake master cylinder on every car I've ever owned was located in the exact same place; on the driver side of the firewall. This is like asking someone where your right front wheel is and indicates that this is not when you want to start learning about brake systems... not on a 3-ton vehicle that you don't have a Factory Service Manual for.

Take it to a mechanic.

-B-
 
i think i will take it to a mechanic to switch that out. I saw a few different brands of master cylinders, anyone have any good experiences with certain brands w/abs.:censor:
 
OEM
 
Don't be ashamed to take you truck in for brake work! If you don't feel completely confident with what is wrong and how to fix it correctly take it in. I have had similar problems and yours could be one of many that are some times hard to diagnose! It was told to me on this board, don't screw around with your brakes!

amen to that here too. i changed the m/c 2X w/ reman'd units (see my 1st or 2nd post). and still had no brake pressure after flushing and bleeding numerous times. mine is in the shop right now for brake repairs bc after multiple attempts i simply COULD NOT DO IT. unless you are ASE /toyota certified, there may always be a time that it is in your best interest to at least get a diagnosis from someone that is.

but then again i am a n00b, so someone feel free to prove me wrong lol
 
i think i will take it to a mechanic to switch that out. I saw a few different brands of master cylinders, anyone have any good experiences with certain brands w/abs.:censor:


Don't be so quick to assume that your brake master is pooched.

I just did my brakes and had to bleed the entire system three times (should have been twice, but I sucked in some air and had to start again) to get all the brown old fluid out, I used a litre of fliud to purge the master, all four corners and the LSPV.
(i gotta get speed bleeders)

once done they felt awsome, nice hard pedal and I can bring my 35s to scrubing (point of lock-up) with very little effort.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom