Brake lines and flaring (1 Viewer)

[Cruiserdrew]

School me on making new metal brake lines. I've searched-it appears I can use the 3/16 line from Napa. IF there is a source of metric line, that would be preferable.

What line and where to get?

Flaring tool-which one? I need one that works, not junk, and not gold plated either!

10mm fittings-from where?

Bender?


Unfortunately with my project, there is no way to use my current lines since they are FJ40 sized. I could cut off the fittings though!

Thank you!

 

[pygpen]

Napa has the 10mm line, it may be "bubble flared" , but the bubble is the first step on a double flare... just finish the job.

Sears has a "lifetime waranty" double flare kit that is reasonably priced and wirks fairly well. I have had to exchange it a number of times due to the pin braking on the bubble making do-hickey. I eveantually figured out it was braking due to the two clamp pieces not being perfectly flat when clamped around the tube..... you'll brake one and understand.

Bending. I did all the lines on my 55, including the axles using a peice of 1.5" tubing.
HTH,
PMK

 

[pygpen]

Also, the metric appears to be 3/16 or at least the equivelant.
PMK

 

[chet]

I find the benders a pain in the ass most of the time. They work for doing full 90 deg. bends though. Take it slow when doing double flares and they will be fine. I have never had one leak. also save all your old fittings. at the very least you can use the fitting with a short piece of crimped of tubing as a plug when you need to pull a caliper/ MC or something.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

OK-I did some experimentation today.

First off-a great find was at Pep-Boys. They have 3/16 line with 10 x 1mm fittings, and it's cheap. The only weirdness, is that the fittings use an 11mm flare wrench, not 10mm like Toyota. It must be the only thing on earth that is 11mm.

Second-the 10 x 1mm fittings are available online, and they look like standard stuff: http://www.classictube.com/pdfs/66_68.pdf

I bought a really cheap double flare tool $16. It totally sucks, but with a bit of practice, you can get acceptable double flares. Like all cheap tools, it sort of sucks, but you can overcome the problems. The real key is to chambfer(sp?) the inside of the line after you cut it(I used a small drillbit), and then file the outside to remove all the burrs. Then it sort of works. I bent some line around sockets, cans, etc-a 24mm socket is perfect.

I still want a good tool for this. The $16 cheapy is not my style. Anyone know a good tool that is a good value? I think a $75 tool would be OK if it was really better. The Mastercool hydraulic tool seems to be the Macdaddy, but at $250, that's too much.

Thanks Pat for pointing me in the right direction!

 

[paranoid56]

i have had good luck with the nicer ridged one from home depot, and then you need to order the dies from eastwood. clamps tight and works great.

Shane

 

[73lndcrsr]

Take a look at this article as well. I helped me a ton.
The real key is tubing prep.

http://www.carcraft.com/howto/50919/

 

[paranoid56]

a good thread on pirate.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=432299

 

[zebrabeefj40]

I use a double flare tool made by Imperial Eastman. IIRC Advance Autoparts carries it though you'll have to order it. I think the price was around $55 when I ran across it on their web site recently.

I bought one of the elcheapo jobs they have on the rack. Never got even ONE flare, good or bad, before the cone press dealy got chewed up by a piece of brake line. The tool I mention above has made hundreds of double flares and still works fine.

HTH,
Nick

 

[pappy]

I noticed metric brake lines with fitting attached at Checker the other day. They had several lengths, and it was cheap.

 

[Rwhat]

Back from the dead. Any updates?

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Only update is that flaring is no big deal.

I get the bulk tube at Classic tube, as well as the ferrule nuts, then use a flare set up that I got at Home depot and a die I think from Eastman. It works well.