Brake Fluid types Opinions?

[2001LC]

Did u end up flushing the prestone out?

I did a complete flush, twice, 4 months ago and this morning i noticed the fluid looks greyish already.
I have another sealed 1L prestone bottle, I was thinking of another flush incase the new fluid already got contaminated with some sort of residues in the system after the first flush?!!

One of the clues I look at, to determine overall health of master. Is flushing and watching to see how fluid darkening and how fast. If darkens fast, it's a sign the fluid was heavily contaminated for a long time. This contamination results in matter buildup (crud). Clogging screens and damaging rubber seals. Mixing fluids, can throw this clue off or even make condition worse (increase crud). It's just one more reason, I only use Toyota brake fluid.

IMHO: Brake fluid darking quickly after a flush. Indicates seals in master have been compromised. This can result in pressure loss, more so when cold. Which may result in excess booster motor run time. Which reduces life of booster motor. Also, one may notice spongy brake pedal feel and "soft brakes" (can also be from, aged flex lines). As pressure drops in system, while braking.

 

[Tareq]

One of the clues I look at, to determine overall health of master. Is flushing and watching to see how fluid darkening and how fast. If darkens fast, it's a sign the fluid was heavily contaminated for a long time. This contamination results in matter buildup (crud). Clogging screens and damaging rubber seals. Mixing fluids, can throw this clue off or even make condition worse (increase crud). It's just one more reason, I only use Toyota brake fluid.

IMHO: Brake fluid darking quickly after a flush. Indicates seals in master have been compromised. This can result in pressure loss, more so when cold. Which may result in excess booster motor run time. Which reduces life of booster motor. Also, one may notice spongy brake pedal feel and "soft brakes" (can also be from, aged flex lines). As pressure drops in system, while braking.

Thank you for clarifying.
My brakes work good, not BMW like, but pressure is good especially after I double tap the pedal. All 4 corners had clear fluid come out, but maybe old fluid was still there in the system causing discoloration ..

 

[2001LC]

Thank you for clarifying.
My brakes work good, not BMW like, but pressure is good especially after I double tap the pedal. All 4 corners had clear fluid come out, but maybe old fluid was still there in the system causing discoloration ..

Accumulator must also be flushed, during system flush. Otherwise we leave about 8 oz. old fluid in it. Key off, pump brake pedal 40 times, after reservoir drawn down to near empty. Add equal amount (~8oz) of Toyota brake fluid. Repeat 5 times. Then fill reservoir with Toyota brake fluid and flush and bleed system.

ABS brake should never be pumped. nor ever need a second pump to get full pressure/firm braking. They a are press once and hold, only.

 

[Les Summer]

Did u end up flushing the prestone out?

I did a complete flush, twice, 4 months ago and this morning i noticed the fluid looks greyish already.
I have another sealed 1L prestone bottle, I was thinking of another flush incase the new fluid already got contaminated with some sort of residues in the system after the first flush?!!

nope, still running it. no issues.

 

[Eyedaho]

Accumulator must also be flushed, during system flush. Otherwise we leave about 8 oz. old fluid in it. Key off, pump brake pedal 40 times, after reservoir drawn down to near empty. Add equal amount (~8oz) of Toyota brake fluid. Repeat 5 times. Then fill reservoir with Toyota brake fluid and flush and bleed system.

ABS brake should never be pumped. nor ever need a second pump to get full pressure/firm braking. They a are press once and hold, only.

Needing a double pump might indicate loose wheel bearings causing the brake pistons to push back into the bores too far, due to the resulting excessive rotor run out.

 

[2001LC]

Needing a double pump might indicate loose wheel bearings causing the brake pistons to push back into the bores too far, due to the resulting excessive rotor run out.

Interesting thought

Can't say I've look for that cause and effect, but I now will!

I have had reports of double pump, and found wheel bearings sung (no play).
But that's not to say; I've check for double pump, when I find loose wheel bearings (WB). Which I see a lot of loose WB. But I will be checking now you've brought this up.

A few thoughts on it:

Wheel bearing that loose, result in false ABS/VSC/ATAC activation. So we should see reports of both ABS activations and double pumps from same vehicles rather consistently. Are you?

Wouldn't once brake pedal released after first pump, wheel hub wobble (in many cases) push caliper piston deep again and second pump be about same as result, rather than firm pedal at the top?

 

[scubadoober]

Any thoughts on the Bosch ESI6 fluid? (Info sheet) They reference low temp viscosity and high lubricity.

 

[andrewderrick]

Just had to replace the booster in my 07 LC. Used Textar DOT3, bled with scan tool, pedal feels fantastic.

 

[2001LC]

How many brake fluids on the market! It can get confusing!. Which do we choose! We've those wishing to get the very best, others just looking to saving a buck.

Do we, get all old fluid(s) out during a flush of brakes, coolant, engine oil, AT, diffs, TC, AHC or washer fluid. Nope!

So how many different blends of brake fluid do you have in just one 18 to 27 year old 100 series. Hummmm! Mixing never a good idea.

I just use Toyota brake fluid. Then I know it's never a blend of fluids. I also know it has the proper seal condition for Toyota systems, which is important to health of master. I also know it is the heavy fluid, which Toyota calls for.

Same for Coolant: Which are year specific. 98-03-LL (Red) & 50% D-water, 04-up SLL (pink) premix.

 

[Tareq]

One of the clues I look at, to determine overall health of master. Is flushing and watching to see how fluid darkening and how fast. If darkens fast, it's a sign the fluid was heavily contaminated for a long time. This contamination results in matter buildup (crud). Clogging screens and damaging rubber seals. Mixing fluids, can throw this clue off or even make condition worse (increase crud). It's just one more reason, I only use Toyota brake fluid.

IMHO: Brake fluid darking quickly after a flush. Indicates seals in master have been compromised. This can result in pressure loss, more so when cold. Which may result in excess booster motor run time. Which reduces life of booster motor. Also, one may notice spongy brake pedal feel and "soft brakes" (can also be from, aged flex lines). As pressure drops in system, while braking.

Nevermind, sucked a bit of fluid out today and looks clear as new, I think the container is dirty. Thank you!