Brake Booster Motor Failed?

[kruisinkid]

it looks as though you bought just the motor divorced of the impeller/pump head and will need to transfer your original onto the rebuilt motor. which to my knowledge the motor ITSELF is not available for purchase from toyota, it only comes as the "booster pump motor". correct me if im wrong.

 

[100d ua]

it looks as though you bought just the motor divorced of the impeller/pump head and will need to transfer your original onto the rebuilt motor. which to my knowledge the motor ITSELF is not available for purchase from toyota, it only comes as the "booster pump motor". correct me if im wrong.

That sounds right. From the research I have done, the usual culprit of this failure is the booster pump motor. But to make this more complicated we and other members/owner go down the path of "WELLL WHILE YOU'RE IN THERE".

It makes sense, you wouldn't drop a transmission to replace a bearing or seal/gasket and not do the clutch while in there.

 

[kruisinkid]

and i am all for that.
i guess what i was getting at was that the impeller is a moving part that can also fail. i fully appreciate how silly the prices for these large parts are for this particular problem and try to keep costs down.

it looks like remnants of a gasket is still on the rebuilt motor? is there an o ring between the impeller and motor as well?

 

[MissouriLC]

I have not removed or added or made absolutely ANY changes to the fluid in the reservoir.

Fair enough, but your reservoir is still overfilled (not that you overfilled it, necessarily).

As Paul said, the reservoir should never fall BELOW the MIN line, as it risks ingesting air into the circuit. But it should not be ABOVE the MAX line, either.

With the ignition off, key out, pump the brake pedal 40 or more times. This will evacuate the fluid in the pressure accumulator back into the reservoir. This will be largest volume of fluid the reservoir needs to accommodate.

If the fluid is above the MAX line after doing this, use a syringe to remove excess fluid.

If below the MAX line, add fluid to the reservoir until up to the MAX line.

As embossed on the reservoir, fluid should only ever be added after the accumulator has been pumped down with 40 or more pumps of the brake pedal.

When the accumulator runs, the fluid level should drop to approximately 1/4 to 1/3 above the MIN line, as measured between the MIN and MAX lines.

 

[MissouriLC]

and i am all for that.
i guess what i was getting at was that the impeller is a moving part that can also fail. i fully appreciate how silly the prices for these large parts are for this particular problem and try to keep costs down.

it looks like remnants of a gasket is still on the rebuilt motor? is there an o ring between the impeller and motor as well?

The pump is sealed, and interfaces with the motor using a lovejoy.

There is a paper gasket between the motor and the pump, to prevent the motor from ingesting fluid through the vent port on the motor. The paper gasket will need to be carefully separated and preserved when the old motor is separated from the pump.

 

[100d ua]

Fair enough, but your reservoir is still overfilled (not that you overfilled it, necessarily).

As Paul said, the reservoir should never fall BELOW the MIN line, as it risks ingesting air into the circuit. But it should not be ABOVE the MAX line, either.

With the ignition off, key out, pump the brake pedal 40 or more times. This will evacuate the fluid in the pressure accumulator back into the reservoir. This will be largest volume of fluid the reservoir needs to accommodate.

If the fluid is above the MAX line after doing this, use a syringe to remove excess fluid.

If below the MAX line, add fluid to the reservoir until up to the MAX line.

As embossed on the reservoir, fluid should only ever be added after the accumulator has been pumped down with 40 or more pumps of the brake pedal.

When the accumulator runs, the fluid level should drop to approximately 1/4 to 1/3 above the MIN line, as measured between the MIN and MAX lines.

That makes perfect sense.

When I begin the removal and install of the unit I will consider this when I begin the filling/bleeding process.

 

[100d ua]

Just an update if it helps anyone... I replaced the 12V motor on the brake cylinder and had the brakes bled with new fluid. Car is back in action without any other problems. Definitely a (1) banana DIY job but I won't comment on brake bleeding since I didn't do it.

Found out I need a new battery though, so that's next.