Brake and exhaust help (1 Viewer)

[Dadsfj40]

Good point, I was thinking more plug and play and that may be where I got into trouble. I'll start looking at the system for the master cylinder I have, It likely has front discs. But I was trying to avoid that to keep it more original and not spend the money to convert to discs, but at the same time make is safer.......Never as simple as you think.

 

[landtank]

Good point, I was thinking more plug and play and that may be where I got into trouble. I'll start looking at the system for the master cylinder I have, It likely has front discs. But I was trying to avoid that to keep it more original and not spend the money to convert to discs, but at the same time make is safer.......Never as simple as you think.

Sometimes it makes too much sense to do anything other than spend money. I was doing the front brakes on my 40 last year. My truck came from the factory with discs in the front and I couldn't find rotors that would fit. Finally called another member who has a lot of experience with these trucks and when I explained what I had his first words were, "I've never seen anything like that". After we talked some more he walked over to where he had some hubs laying around and lo and behold there was one of what I had in the pile. I did finally find the part number for it, it was a Toyota only item and was priced accordingly. I don't need a common wear item on my truck that needs to be special ordered should I need to replace it, so I bought some used hubs that uses the more common parts and installed them.

I would take some time to fully understand what you have for a brake system and then map out a solution that works well and can easily be repaired down the road. Luckily we have a lot of great people here that are willing to help.

 

[Dadsfj40]

Thanks for the Advice, I am starting to search from the master cylinder forward. I really don't want to go back to a single cylinder system. I agree, thank god for all of the support here. Especially for a newbie, first restoration.

 

[landtank]

I took some time and this should be the MC you want.

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Advics is actually Aisin the provider for Toyota and the Brass nuts on the side are residual valves which are necessary for drum brakes and the MC you bought doesn't look to have any.

 

[Cruiser_Nerd]

I didn't see in the thread where you said you adjusted the wheel cylinders correctly. If you haven't tried, adjust them all so they are hard on the drum. And when I say hard, you can't turn the adjuster or the drum anymore. Then, if you are bled correctly you will have a hard pedal. Eight unadjusted cylinders can easily use several to many full strokes of the pedal to even come in contact with the drum (if you're fast enough).

If you do that, the system is tight , and you're confident in the bleed you will have a hard pedal. If it is either mushy or non existent than you likely do have a faulty master.

If you have a hard pedal with the adjusters out, then that is the starting point for adjusting the cylinders. Loosen them until the drum turns free from there.

 

[73FJ40]

@Dadsfj40

The master cylinder identified by @landtank is designed for drum brakes, front and rear. Inside the discharge of both sides of the MC is a residual pressure valve, that holds a minimal amount of pressure on the brake lines to prevent the brake shoes from retracting all the way. It's the same MC I have in my 73FJ40.

@Cruiser_Nerd is right on with his adjustment advice. That's exactly how I did mine, and my brakes are fine. (Note that the '73 also has a brake booster.)

Do you have a Land Cruiser brake spoon to adjust the brake cylinders? It works much better than a flat blade screwdriver..

 

[zebrabeefj40]

You are not the first to curse bleeding the brakes on a 40 or 55. Even with just rear drums, it is a pain.

I assume all brake lines were checked for leaks and you started bleeding the brakes farthest from the master cylinder.

The hard lines can develop pin hole leaks that can suck in air.

As stated earlier, adjustment is key. With 4 drums, have all wheels off the ground and adjust all 4 before bleeding the farthest wheel first. Don't forget to pump the pedal during the adjustment to center the brake shoes. Haynes recommends only a half turn on the bleeder valve.

While I have not had much luck with reverse bleeders, you may want to pick one up from your local auto parts store and give it a try.

Good luck.

Joe,

Did you not also have issue with the wheel cylinders not bleeding all the air out because the bleeder was not the highest point in the wheel cylinder? Seems to me you and I had that issue once with your FJ55...

Nick

 

[jmylie]

Yes, bleeding drum brakes with 2 brake cylinders per wheel is a pain.