Brake advice

[pndavis4]

2002 LC 330k
I've had this rig for 50k miles. Have not touched the brakes, because it hasn't been needed. I can tell the rotors are starting to get a little wavy but the pads are making no noise. Recently the "BRAKE" lamp on the dash came on. After some investigating it seems as if the brake fluid is getting low because my pads are thin.
PO kept EXTENSIVE service records, and the last time the pads were replaced was at 210k. I bought the rig with 270k. This puts these brake pads age @ 120k. Given the pads are worn and the truck is getting a little squirley when braking I'd say it's time for pads and rotors turned.
I'd like to contact the PO and see what in the heck he did to get this kind of life out of the brakes. But what pads would you guys use? Uncle Toy quoted me $45 for OEM. Do you guys use aftermarket? Any info is appreciated. Sorry for being longwinded.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

*double post*

 

[Somebodyelse5]

*triple post* ooops...

 

[outdoorsman]

Wow

That many miles it might be metal to metal.

The Brake light probably means low brake fluid probably due to way to much caliper travel.

I doubt you could be able to turn the rotors with that many miles on there.

I use OEM pads and rotors. Which will last a long time.

Others on here use quality aftermarket pads and rotors

 

[Spike555]

Miles mean nothing on brake parts, it's the usage.
Your brake fluid was low because the brake pads are thin, just like you said.

I use aftermarket parts, I bought TRW brake pads for both axles last year, $50 if I remember right, Amazon, they are the top of the line brake pad AutoZone sell's.

Most likely no shop will turn your rotors.

Mine had the same wavy feel, I was thinking I needed rotors too, I replaced the pads and all was smooth once again. Mine had Toyota brake pads on it.
I have no idea why it felt like the rotors were warped, but once I put the new pads on the warped rotor feel went away.
No I did not turn my rotors, I never do.
I'm easy on brakes so I do not warp the rotors, I just run them until they're paper thin and then replace them, which is about once every 10yrs.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

*double post*

Obviously I do not know how to use the internet....

What I had meant to say was that consensus here is to use OEM pads and rotors. They last and perform well. The drilled and slotted options are super expensive and many have noise issues.

I do not like turning rotors, it just removes material and reduces the life of the rotor. The whole "warped rotor" thing is a myth, it doesn't happen... what DOES happen is that a super hot rotor and a super hot pad, staying in contact without moving (long hill to a stop light) can begin to fuse and change local material properties of the rotor... this can make the braking feel inconsistent, often diagnosed as a warped rotor.

The rotor can also where unevenly, but turning the rotor would re-establish the perpendicularity of the braking surfaces to the center line, which would just wear unevenly again unless the alignment issue is resolved. Basically, the uneven wear would effectively be reducing the runout of the braking surfaces relative to the pads.

Moral of the story, your rotors are fine as long as they are not super thin.

 

[Skidoo]

I like Hawk LTS pads, more braking power and long life.

 

[NoVaGator]

I recently did pads and rotors all around with DBA rotors and Toyota pads. I think that's Slee's preferred combo.

 

[C6H12O6]

I had DBA rotors on my 80 with the OEM 100-series pads. I ended up replacing with OEM rotors and noticed no decrease in braking. I liked the DBA rotors just fine and they looked cool, but they're nearly 3X the price of the OEM front rotors. Not worth it in my book.