Bought the 87 4runner - help me gets it's power back!!

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lunyou

lunyou

Joined
Oct 24, 2005
Threads
184
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2,404
Location
Cuba, MO
Okay I went and picked the truck up. Of course it is rough but not to far gone to work with.

First off is reclaiming what little power the 4cyl had.

I'm going to replace plugs and wires should help some. Next is curing the backfiring problem. As I decelerate I get a slight backfire. What causes this? Out of time? That could be my big issue if so, and that's a pretty easy fix.

After I get the power back to somewhat normal I'll beat around in it and finally get it all back to presentable.
 
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I added plug wires and they gave a slight boost. Plugs are next. The O'reillys didn't have any good plugs.
 
Ewwwwwww auto hubs... I hope they still work! :D

Let us know what you find when you check the timing. (You have to jump 2 contacts in the diagnostic port under the hood (It's usually right behind the fuse block on the pass side)Terminals E1 and TE1) :cheers:
 
2ndgenfan, I have no idea how to check the timing. I was going to take it to a Shop unless someone can break it down for me here.

The autohubs still work and will be replaced with manuals once the truck is mechanically sound.
 
First, go buy a timing gun... :P (A $15-$20 one will work fine)

Let engine warm up to operation temp then shut it off, and jump the 2 connectors mentioned above together.

On your timing gun there will be 3 wires, one Red with a clamp connector (It goes to the positive terminal on the battery), one black with a clamp connector (negative battery terminal) and one with a funny looking plastic thing that opens and lets the #1 spark plug wire into it (make sure this closes around the wire fully).

Once all 3 wires are hooked up and out of harms way, start the engine up again and pull the trigger on the gun. It should start flashing like a strobe light. Point the light down the front of the engine at the crank shaft pulley. On the pulley there should be a mark that appears to stay still because of the flashing light. This mark will be next to the timing marks that are on the oil pump next to the crank pulley.

There should be a sticker under the hood that tells you what the timing should be set at 0*-10* depending on what engine. Yours should say 5* BTDC (Before top dead center)

If your mark is not next to the 5 on the oil pump timing marks, then you will need to loosen the lock bolt on the distributor and turn the distributor till the mark comes back to where it should be.

*** If you can't get the timing mark anywhere near the marks on the oil pump, then you will need to pull the distributor out and turn it one tooth and try again. If you can not get the timing mark to where it should be after turning the distributor both ways then the timing chain may be off a tooth or more...
 
Awesome. I'll get on that soon.

Poriggity said:
Love it. I love 1st gen runners!
Scott
Click to expand...

2ndGenToyotaFan said:
First, go buy a timing gun... :P (A $15-$20 one will work fine)

Let engine warm up to operation temp then shut it off, and jump the 2 connectors mentioned above together.

On your timing gun there will be 3 wires, one Red with a clamp connector (It goes to the positive terminal on the battery), one black with a clamp connector (negative battery terminal) and one with a funny looking plastic thing that opens and lets the #1 spark plug wire into it (make sure this closes around the wire fully).

Once all 3 wires are hooked up and out of harms way, start the engine up again and pull the trigger on the gun. It should start flashing like a strobe light. Point the light down the front of the engine at the crank shaft pulley. On the pulley there should be a mark that appears to stay still because of the flashing light. This mark will be next to the timing marks that are on the oil pump next to the crank pulley.

There should be a sticker under the hood that tells you what the timing should be set at 0*-10* depending on what engine. Yours should say 5* BTDC (Before top dead center)

If your mark is not next to the 5 on the oil pump timing marks, then you will need to loosen the lock bolt on the distributor and turn the distributor till the mark comes back to where it should be.

*** If you can't get the timing mark anywhere near the marks on the oil pump, then you will need to pull the distributor out and turn it one tooth and try again. If you can not get the timing mark to where it should be after turning the distributor both ways then the timing chain may be off a tooth or more...
Click to expand...
 
2ndGenToyotaFan said:
First, go buy a timing gun... :P (A $15-$20 one will work fine)

Let engine warm up to operation temp then shut it off, and jump the 2 connectors mentioned above together.

On your timing gun there will be 3 wires, one Red with a clamp connector (It goes to the positive terminal on the battery), one black with a clamp connector (negative battery terminal) and one with a funny looking plastic thing that opens and lets the #1 spark plug wire into it (make sure this closes around the wire fully).

Once all 3 wires are hooked up and out of harms way, start the engine up again and pull the trigger on the gun. It should start flashing like a strobe light. Point the light down the front of the engine at the crank shaft pulley. On the pulley there should be a mark that appears to stay still because of the flashing light. This mark will be next to the timing marks that are on the oil pump next to the crank pulley.

There should be a sticker under the hood that tells you what the timing should be set at 0*-10* depending on what engine. Yours should say 5* BTDC (Before top dead center)

If your mark is not next to the 5 on the oil pump timing marks, then you will need to loosen the lock bolt on the distributor and turn the distributor till the mark comes back to where it should be.

*** If you can't get the timing mark anywhere near the marks on the oil pump, then you will need to pull the distributor out and turn it one tooth and try again. If you can not get the timing mark to where it should be after turning the distributor both ways then the timing chain may be off a tooth or more...
Click to expand...

By "removing the distributor" you mean pull it out of the block right? Is this a job a simpleton can do? I don't want to screw anything up. I'm pretty sure the timing chain is out of my league as that can break things if you mess that up.
 
Update, changed the plugs. The old ones were pretty bad. This helped a noticeable amount. Now I need to fix the exhaust leak so I can hear the engine and cut out the noise so I can get a realistic idea of how much power I'm losing.
 
I would look for cracks in the intake boots, vacuum lines, etc. You may be running too lean. You can spray wd40, map gas, etc around boots and hoses and the engine rpms will change if there is an issue. Improper afm adjustment or bad signal from it can cause the same causing a lean condition. How did the plugs look?
 
The plugs were really dark but not oily. I'll dig them out of the trash tomorrow and get a picture.
 
That then would point more towards a rich condition, which should cause a backfire...have you checked your valves?
 
It does back fire a little on deceleration when using the engine to brake instead of the brakes.

I have not checked the valves. I always get a little intimidated when it comes to the inner workings. Any tips on the valves?
 
i think the timing needs adanced, pull the 1st plug, use a scewdriver bring it(the piston) top dead center which is where the piston reaches the highest point on that cy before it starts to go down. It may take you seveal attempts to achieve this while using a socket to rotate the engine clock wise.

once you got this check your fsm for further details such as the rotor button location....then you may need to loosen the bolt and advance or retard......and the rest i aint telling:flipoff2: oh yea dont let somebody use the key to bump the motor while you are trying to locate tdc using the screwdriver method
 
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