Bottom End Adventure / Cylinder Block Disssembly (1 Viewer)

[SucioP]

Let me start by saying I'm in way over my head....I know this.

The FSM is less than clear once you get to EM-85 / Step 14-15. Pretty clear not to rotate the crank during testing through removal of piston (#6?). Once the first one is out, can you rotate the crank to get to the next (#5)? Preferred position is bottom of the stroke?

Any wisdom the group can impart would be greatly appreciated.

 

[manofthewoods]

Let me start by saying I'm in way over my head....I know this.

The FSM is less than clear once you get to EM-85 / Step 14-15. Pretty clear not to rotate the crank during testing through removal of piston (#6?). Once the first one is out, can you rotate the crank to get to the next (#5)? Preferred position is bottom of the stroke?

Any wisdom the group can impart would be greatly appreciated.

No worries. Rotate to your heart's content. However, you should see 2 cylinders at BDC as you rotate.
I'm assuming you used a ridge reamer on all cylinders, motor oil would be helpful too.
You'll forever appreciate the fruits of your labor!

just remember that: what one man can do, another can do! (a line from the movie "The Edge")

 

[SucioP]

Yes on ridge reamer.

Just coat the walls w/ motor oil?

Much appreciated!

 

[manofthewoods]

Yes on ridge reamer.

Just coat the walls w/ motor oil?

Much appreciated!

Yeah, keep the walls coated at all times, Motor oil won't hurt (maybe messy). Even if you don't plan on reusing the pistons, have something like a cardboard box with stuffing to catch them as they drop out..
The FSM call for covering the rod end threads, I used thick plumbing tape.

 

[SucioP]

Ok. How do you get this guy out w/o potentially screwing up the surface (and why do you need to.as the rear apparently stays in....)?

 

[manofthewoods]

Ok. How do you get this guy out w/o potentially screwing up the surface (and why do you need to.as the rear apparently stays in....)?

View attachment 2873320

I didn't mess with mine. It was clean enough I figured.

 

[SNLC]

Ok. How do you get this guy out w/o potentially screwing up the surface (and why do you need to.as the rear apparently stays in....)?

View attachment 2873320

With an allen wrench.

If you are decking the top of the block you need to pull it and the dowels. If you are not decking it, you don’t need to remove. I highly suggest checking the top of the block for true.

Cheers

 

[SucioP]

Plan to have machine shop check the top and determine if it needs to be decked. How do you pull the dowels?

 

[SNLC]

With an easy out.

Cheers

 

[manofthewoods]

Plan to have machine shop check the top and determine if it needs to be decked. How do you pull the dowels?

My machine shop destroyed them upon removal. I had to get new ones. They just pushed in. no big deal.
"block alignment pin" (x2) 90253-15007

 

[SucioP]

Well I was planning on reusing the pistons...... Cleaned up #6 and discovered this wear under the grime. Cylinder walls look ok. Should I be concerned? What could have caused this?

 

[Kernal]

Can you post up another photo taken from a lower angle, is that bright area squished downward??

 

[SucioP]

It look more worn than squished,. Weird...

 

[jpoole]

What did the head gasket look like where that damage is? Were the crank or rod bearings for the piston/cylinder loose?

 

[SucioP]

Nothing noticeable on HG, that I recall. Bearings seam tight.....

#5 & #4 look clean and no noticeable damage to wall of #6.

 

[jpoole]

You probably see where I was going with my questions but it seems possible that the fire ring could have crept far enough into the cylinder to make light contact with the piston there. I don't remember the exact clearances there but my rough memory from when I did the HG on my 1FZ was that the piston traveled up pretty close to deck height. I also had misshapen fire rings on my old HG so creeping into the combustion chamber at least seems possible. Looking at the shape and the bottom of the fire ring for that cylinder, if you still have it, could shed light on my theory. Other folks with more 1FZFE familiarity could likely rule out or confirm the theories plausibility also.

 

[SucioP]

Old HG went out a few dumpster runs ago. Your theory seems plausible the question is what now?

Assuming the machine shop says the cylinders don't need work, I was hoping to get away with just rings and bearings. Would the collective wisdom rerun this piston?

I'm assuming the answer is no. Can I introduce a single new piston into a system that's broken in over 250k+ miles? Same bearings (#4)?

 

[fjbj40]

Personally I would lightly blend the damage so no sharp edges remain and run it.

It is so small it would have a negligible effect on compression ratio.

My 2c