Both drivers side windows not working, passenger side OK

[UpstateTCUFrog]

I went to roll down my driver's side front window today... and it would not roll down. I could hear the motor for a split-second, but no movement. Trying to roll the window down again resulted in no motor sound or window movement. Then, I pressed the UP button, and I heard the motor again.

It turns out the EXACT SAME THING is going on with the drivers side back window, but both passenger side windows operate fine.

I find it hard to believe both motors took a dump at the exact same time.

ANY IDEAS????

Thanks so much!

 

[EdsCruisin]

What buttons are you using to test the windows? Maybe the wire to the driver's door panel is compromised, whereas the other doors are not. I would check the wire harness where it passes through the door to the 1/4 panel and make sure it is well protected.

An alternative is that some bozo tried to break in by moving the windows and managed to break the tabs down in the door? Maybe they only tried the driver's side and gave up.

 

[UpstateTCUFrog]

Eds -

I used the buttons available to the driver (ALL 4) to test driver's front, driver's rear, passenger front, passenger rear windows, which produced the condition I mentioned above.

Furthermore, I tested all single controllers individually (e.g. driver's rear by itself - and it produced the same condition as driver's front). Both the passenger's side windows worked fine when tested individually.

Thanks for your response... does this help you draw any further conclusions?

 

[Jim_Chow]

It sounds like the non-functional windows are getting power if you say you can hear the motor both when you attempt to operate them with the driver's master switch and with the individual door switches. The window switches/motors are supplied power in two ways, one directly from a single ECU and the other way from the master switch (there's a splice and the same colored wires run to the other 3 switches). Anyone know how the motor knows when to stop lowering a window? Usually, there's some kind of electrical contact at the limit that cuts off power to the relay.

 

[EdsCruisin]

At this point I would recommend pulling off the door panels and trying to see the operation. By description it seems like something is disconnected. Hard to tell without looking. Door panels are usually easy to remove.

I have not looked at the FSM, but usually the limiters are built into the motors to prevent them from running free or with too much resistance. If not there will be a wires going to one or two locations along the window track (much like a garage door opener) to sense window position.

Remember to take pictures if you can.

 

[farinvail]

Drivers side window is known for braking at the plastic mount where it attaches to the up and down mechanism. Unfortunatly you cannot get just the plastic mount you must replace the glass. Aprox $230. When it brakes the window tilts forward and won;t go back up. I've never heard of issues with rear windows. Pull the pannel and see what's up. I've also knocked the passanger side glass out of the track when hitting the slider on a rock and window was rolled down.