Botched brake booster install: solved, I'm just an idiot (1 Viewer)

[SaturnAscends]

 

[clx16]

I've literally seen people cut, notch and reweld boosters for engine swaps. so dents and massaging..... not an issue.

you were close but not quite.

Ok so you need to fix the threads. get someone to drive to you lowes/homedepot or any of the parts stores and get a die to clean up the threads.

I am take your old booster with you so you can match it up, but i think it will be m10 1.25.

probably 7 or 8 dollars though.

 

[SaturnAscends]

View attachment 2987396View attachment 2987397

Looks like the middle part of the firewall is offset ( the metal holes for the studs are offset from the rest of the firewall)

 

[clx16]

looks like this or close too it. https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51DUBPF1fVL._AC_SL1100_.jpg

 

[clx16]

yeah realign that back up with as screwdriver or punch or something before you try to put it in again.

 

[SaturnAscends]

So I found that tool @clx16 mentioned for rethreading and was able to adjust the bracket within the firewall to get the studs through and the booster is finally installed.

Sometimes it pays to take a step back and think about what you're doing. I was so hyper-focused on forcing it through the firewall that I didn't even think of the offset bracket blocking the studs.

I feel like a total idiot that I almost let that stop me from finishing the job, and that it took me so long to realize.

 

[clx16]

Nice. Enjoy the better braking! glad you finished off so you can wake up in the morning with a rested mind and double check your work for about 5 mins. and you will feel good about it.

step six

 

[SaturnAscends]

Nice. Enjoy the better braking! glad you finished off so you can wake up in the morning with a rested mind and double check your work for about 5 mins. and you will feel good about it.

Yeah thanks I just have to adjust the pushrod since I have to push the pedal pretty close to the floor before it starts braking.

Also now there's a strong smell of WD-40 in the cabin since I sprayed a bunch in the holes in the firewall thinking lack of lubrication was the issue. Any tips to clean up the WD-40 or at least get rid of the smell?

 

[clx16]

Simple green ... but you probably got it in some of the insulation... wd-40 smell doesn't last in my experience.... or maybe my nose just adjusts. At least it isn't gear oil haha.

 

[SaturnAscends]

Simple green ... but you probably got it in some of the insulation... wd-40 smell doesn't last in my experience.... or maybe my nose just adjusts. At least it isn't gear oil haha.

Ok hopefully it'll just burn off. Thanks again for all the help. Next time I'll have to be more careful not to miss the forest for the trees.

 

[clx16]

No problem. we all do it. each job gets easier and we get better. We also think that when one or two steps go wrong, we are derailed... more experience means more options and the ability to adapt more. knowledge/experience good investments.

 

[LandLocked93]

Thanks again for all the help. Next time I'll have to be more careful not to miss the forest for the trees.

Thinking back to our previous conversations...

...you're at step 6.

Congrats

 

[Kernal]

I ran into this same issue a few months ago, the cause was the misalignment of the brake pedal bracket against the firewall. That bracket is held in place by the same nuts (using the booster studs) as the booster itself.

So when you remove the nuts on the cabin side of the firewall the brake pedal bracket can slip out of place, when that happens no amount of forcing, wiggling, or kicking will get the studs through; the four holes in that bracket on the inside must line up with the four holes in the firewall and the booster studs. IME

 

[Rusty Marlin]

I had my son hold/wiggle the the brake bracket into location over the studs as I wrestled the booster in from the front.