Body Restoration Question/Help (1 Viewer)

[Gerrha]

Hello,
Still in the midst of my 97 rebuild with the body now completely isolated and cleared out. There are a few rusty areas and despite reading a couple of books on body repairs, I still know nothing about body repairs. Before I seek professional help, I would like to have an idea of what is possible or not possible, and what should happen. My goal is to get all rusted areas repaired back to brand new condition.

I hope that someone on the forum can give me guidance about body restoration. I have attached 3 photos showing 3 of the 4 worst areas. Could someone please tell me if these 3 areas can be restored with actual metal back to new condition or is that just not possible.

Appreciate the help!

 

[truthdetector]

@kelly saad knows a thing or two about rust on Land Cruisers.

 

[kelly saad]

Those areas can absolutely be repaired. Looking at this rust, I can guarantee there is more hidden in similarly located areas. You have to chase it until it’s all gone. Trying to tell you how to fix it would be tough. It’s a lot of knowledge and tools, but I’m sure you can do it! I can answer questions if have some. Maybe I will know the answers.

 

[Malleus]

The sort answer is yes, that can be fixed. The long answer starts with "first remove the rusted metal...".

There are two ways to fix the replacement metal to the existing panels: but the new metal edge against the existing and weld the seam, and place a backing plate, overlapping the joint to be made by an inch, behind the cut edge and weld it in place, then place the repair metal onver the exposed backgin plate and weld it in. This would be my preferred method for the two inner panel repairs, without doubt.

A "professional" will tell you this is a bad practice, because a gap between the panels can trap water and rust will start there. This is absolutely wrong inside the body. It's potentially correct on exterior panels, which are exposed to water intermittently, like the rear corner area you have. Body shops don't like to do this, not because it's a potential failure point, that's just a convenient excuse they use, but because every minute the spend and every square inch of metal they use cuts into their profit. You should take "professional" advice with caution, and understand the point of view of the source. You do not care how long a repair takes you, your time is free - that's why you're doing the work and not paying someone to do it for you.

As far as overlapping backing panels with repair panels is concerned, as long as the contact area is sealed, it'll last as long as the metal does. Seam sealer will do the job very well. The Lexus sedan floors are made this way at the factory.

If you haven't already, download the collision repair manual in the 80 section of the Resources forum. There is detailed information there on how to repair body panels that can only be repaired by removing and replacing metal. There is a related manual in the 100 series section, that, while specific to 100 series, also has good information on the general way to work.

 

[Kernal]

Any thoughts on the use of a Zinc-rich weld-through primer for the overlapping sheet metal ie: applied before welding?

Zincweld™ | 40773 | SEM Products

Zincweld is a zinc-based weld-through primer that provides superior corrosion protection between welded substrates while minimizing heat affected zones and welding spatter.

semproducts.com

 

[Gerrha]

I appreciate all of your feedback. I think I do have the collision repair manual so I will check it out. But thanks for giving me hope that these areas can be repaired to original condition!