Blower motor resistor....location/replacement

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Not sure about that sorry.
Did the motor spin freely by hand?. Does it have bearings or brass bushes?I know those porous brass bushes dry out. You can soak them in oil for a while to relube them.
It did, yes. When I took it apart, it was filthy. The brushes are in decent condition, but I cleaned the windings and it everything back together. I can't imagine it's the motor, since I directly hooked it to the battery and ran fine, and with more speed.
 
Not to say that's not a problem, but I pulled the CB out and ran a jumper in it's place. Ran well, for around five minutes. Didn't want to run it too long, as it's not running right now and don't want to drain the battery. Also pulled the switch apart and cleaned up the contacts. The contacts on the CB were pretty dirty, but cleaning them didn't help. Decided to take it apart (read, ruin it) and the points inside on both the bimetalic disc and the plugs were trashed. I'll pick a new one up and see what that does for me.
 
The only other thing I can think of is to pull out the resistor panel, keep it wired up, put the blower on high and see if any of the resistor springs get hot.
Assuming the switch is working correctly, when the fan is on high the resistor assembly should stay cool, as the power to the fan bypasses the resistor completely. I've been chasing some gremlins in my front blower motor circuit while waiting for new diodes for my gauge regulator project and recently been digging into the workings of the circuit. It's a very weird design.
 
SO if you are trying to troubleshoot and want to bypass the resistor what two leads should you jump, the M to H? Just replaced blower, still not blowing (it was shot anyway), trying to narrow it down a little between resistor, relay, fan switch, circuit breaker. Also in circuit breaker (which just kinda cracked) is that pos coming in and out? Sucks not having heat when it is 15 f
 
I don't think the heater resistor comes into play with the fan on H. It is used to neck down current in the lower settings.

you could try replacing the heater CB with an inline fuse. It's a known issue. Usually when a heater CB loses it's resistance it will trip the breaker too when the AC is on and the fan on high. Pulling the CB out and resetting it by pushing a finishing nail in the hole will reset it, But they lose strength when the get old. Mine was tripping at about 14amps when it is supposed to be a 30a breaker. If you push the AC button in and don't see the blue light come on, then your heater CB is tripped. Here's an image of what to do using an 30 amp inline fuse:

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I don't think the heater resistor comes into play with the fan on H. It is used to neck down current in the lower settings.

you could try replacing the heater CB with an inline fuse. It's a known issue. Usually when a heater CB loses it's resistance it will trip the breaker too when the AC is on and the fan on high. Pulling the CB out and resetting it by pushing a finishing nail in the hole will reset it, But they lose strength when the get old. Mine was tripping at about 14amps when it is supposed to be a 30a breaker. If you push the AC button in and don't see the blue light come on, then your heater CB is tripped. Here's an image of what to do using an 30 amp inline fuse:
Thanks G-man, yeah, AC blue light does not go on. I ordered more stuff from RockAuto today, new resistor & relay and a CB from Sunnyside Toyota (Toyota Parts Barn)...one of my go to's , was surprised that the CB was available new OEM cause I had a really hard time finding a part number (#82650-20011)......

Gonna wait until it warms to 20 tomorrow before I work on it more. It's one of the things that i am not great at, electronics stuff.....I can wire a house no problem but.....
 
take your multi tester probes and put them on the two contacts at the plug...harness side of course. Doesn't matter if you have it backwards...it will just show negative volts. Should be close to 12v

If nothing, take the black probe and put it to ground...there should be a 10mm bolt under the metal lower dash at the corner where w/b wire comes ...this is a ground point. Take the red probe and touch either side of the plug and see if one has + voltage.
 
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