I've been searching threads and see a lot of relatively old discussion about warranty fixes for peeling paint. Now that the warranty claims are a thing of the past, what are folks doing to fix current paint peeling issues and prevent future ones? I got a quote from an auto refinisher to fix the one side and bumpers where I am currently showing problems, but I'm really only prolonging the inevitable for other parts that are not addressed. The quote for a full strip / repaint (wherein I can also choose a color change) is ~$13k so I'm not loving that option. Curious to hear your thoughts and opinions on this. Thanks!
Blizzard Pearl ... Solutions?
- Thread starter wabisabi
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Once the clear fails it's game over
Live with it and keep a coat of wax on whatever's left at all times. Which probably means waxing every 2-3 months, max. Or have the car repainted ($$$)
Live with it and keep a coat of wax on whatever's left at all times. Which probably means waxing every 2-3 months, max. Or have the car repainted ($$$)
I'd get multiple bids on the paint from multiple shops. $13K sounds quite high, although the full strip/primer removal may be driving the cost up. Most shops are busy and used to insurance work, so you might have got a "I don't want to do it" price.
- Thread starter
- #5
For sure. The bid I have is from a shop that specifically focused on auto refinishing more than general auto body and they seemed to be VERY familiar with this issue in particular which gave me a good feeling out of the gate, but $13k is a lot to put into only one project on this vehicle as much as I may love it. I've had a couple of shops turn me away because they don't seem to want to deal with this problem. But before I make my "final" decision I do need to get more quotes.
- Thread starter
- #6
Yeah. I had my internal pricing clock set to "back in my day" when I was expecting what I might see on a bid for a repaint to REALLY fix this problem. Spending some quality time with the truck applying wax might be the order of the day.
Find somebody Retired or that does Body work on the Side. Might take Longer but the Price will be considerably lower. I have a guy that did Body work for 10 years and got out of it But does it on the side. I Pickup the Paint for him and sometimes wait a long time but he does Quality Work. Always Cash.
Before & After Pics are Fun.
**I had the Hood Repainted Painted on the 80. Turned out Great.
Haven't heard much lately of Raptor lining rather than paint. Could be a DIY solution and better for off-road.
- Thread starter
- #11
I thought about having it lined but that is a hard decision to reverse. It is also really heavy. Aside from the unfortunate issue with peeling paint this thing is kind of a cream puff. We just crossed over 60k miles and I'm still torn on leaving it stock or building it out. If I do end up painting it I may change the color though.
Unless you have money coming out the wazoo, do not put $13 grand of cosmetics into a truck worth $25K. That's crazy.
If you need a perfect truck, buy a perfect truck. Dump this one with blown-out paint and find a different one.
The only thing worse, financially-speaking, would be to repaint and change the color.
$0.02
If you need a perfect truck, buy a perfect truck. Dump this one with blown-out paint and find a different one.
The only thing worse, financially-speaking, would be to repaint and change the color.
$0.02
- Thread starter
- #13
I'm really just weighing options at this point. I was surprised when I got that first quote because apparently I had prices from the olden days in my head. Not asking about whether I should do that so much as what other options others might recommend that I may not have previously considered.
I'm starting to have the same issue on my front passenger door on the top lip next to the window seal. Probably going to scratch off whats pealing and use touch up paint to fill the gap. Hopefully that can delay the spread. I'm considering getting it wrapped to protect what's left. I've heard $3k is around the price for a wrap and you can get a better deal if you remove all the trim pieces yourself. Sound like a wrap would be a 6 to 10 year solution depending on conditions.
I couldn't stomach $13k for a complete respray. I would attack the problem areas as they come up. It's a 20 year old car so I'm accepting it's not going to be pristine forever and perfection isn't the goal anymore.
I couldn't stomach $13k for a complete respray. I would attack the problem areas as they come up. It's a 20 year old car so I'm accepting it's not going to be pristine forever and perfection isn't the goal anymore.
- Thread starter
- #15
Yeah. Perfection isn't the goal, but I do need to figure out a good long-term solution. If perfection came with that solution at a decent price that would be a plus. Unfortunately I am already playing whack-a-mole with multiple significant sized areas on 2 of my doors. My 470 is my favorite vehicle, so it makes the calculus a bit different for me personally.
- Thread starter
- #16
I've wondered about wrapping as well. It's my understanding the core problem is with the base coat directly on the metal. I was (probably incorrectly) assuming that if this base layer fails it will cause wrap to just be connected to paint that is delaminating and "loose" so the hold of the wrap is only as good as the hold of the paint it is sitting over. Do you know if this is the case?
FWIW, my GX will likely need a respray at some point in the future. The clear on the roof is already trashed. The rest is OK but won't last forever. IMO a wrap for $3-5K is kind of a poor investment if it only lasts 5-10 years. A re-spray should last 15-20 years. For my rig I'm going to put a temporary black wrap on the roof and budget for a re-spray in several years (which I'm hopeful will be closer to $5-7K in my area considering it shouldn't need to be stripped to bare metal).
- Thread starter
- #18
That's kind of where I am in reality. I know deep down respray IS the ultimate solution, but I was just hoping that someone had a magic option that I hadn't thought of. In reality I need to find a few different shops around here and get more quotes and decide from there.
If you have the money and love the rig, it's worth it. Regardless of if it's cost-effective or not.
My father-in-law for a good while was just the kind of retired guy you would have been looking for
. He did auto body on the side for years before and after retiring but has finally hung it up. His last job was a re-spray of his mint, stock, un-molested 1999 Cummins.But even though the white paint doesn't hold up to the primer, the primer is really good quality. My peeling paint is ugly but the primer is in great condition, no rust anywhere.