Blast cabinet window. (1 Viewer)

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Trollhole

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I know there has to be a trick to keeping the window clear when blasting. I'm tired of buying these laminates that go over them. They get frosted fast.

Could I just put a piece of glass or something in there?
 
Naw,
The glass will frost just like the plastic. I Use clear packageing tape. Have to replace it quite a bit. Just try not to aim the nozzel at the sight window much! Good luck...:beer:
 
I took a welding class at the local community college. They used saran wrap over the glass. Worked pretty well and didn't impare vision that badly.

He was a pretty busy instructor so it was a sloppily applied. If a guy had a little time I wonder if he might be able to wet it and squeege it on like vinyl to last longer. Or even a couple layers.

Andy
 
I know there has to be a trick to keeping the window clear when blasting. I'm tired of buying these laminates that go over them. They get frosted fast.

Could I just put a piece of glass or something in there?

If you figure it out, let me know. I just change out the glass whenever I can't see through it anymore. It costs about $5 to change out the glass.
 
take a piece of plastic window screen and build a small frame to go around it that is about an inch thick. This will hold the screen about an inch to an inch away from the glass and stop a lot of the beads from getting in there.

Leave the bottom of the frame open for beads to get out.

Also a good idea to hook up an air only gun in there to blow stuff off in the cabinet and blow the dust off the screen.

I hooked up my shop vac to the cabinet and then ran a house out the wall of the wall in the shop to blow what ever dust that runs through the vac outside via a dryer vent.

I also find that using a large cabinet with tempered glass makes it last a lot longer than a $3.00 piece of glass from home depot. I was able to get pieces for about 20 bucks each from the local glass guy. Smaller cabinets seem to get a lot of media blasting around inside. With a large cabinet, you can hold the work at arms length and direct the spray down into the hopper. I built a huge cabinet that is large enough for motor cycle frames, 5x5x3. The same piece of tempered glass lasted several years with a screen in front of it.

The air only blow gun is ideal for unclogging the suction feed line too.

-JS
 
take a piece of plastic window screen and build a small frame to go around it that is about an inch thick. This will hold the screen about an inch to an inch away from the glass and stop a lot of the beads from getting in there.

Leave the bottom of the frame open for beads to get out.

Also a good idea to hook up an air only gun in there to blow stuff off in the cabinet and blow the dust off the screen.

I hooked up my shop vac to the cabinet and then ran a house out the wall of the wall in the shop to blow what ever dust that runs through the vac outside via a dryer vent.

I also find that using a large cabinet with tempered glass makes it last a lot longer than a $3.00 piece of glass from home depot. I was able to get pieces for about 20 bucks each from the local glass guy. Smaller cabinets seem to get a lot of media blasting around inside. With a large cabinet, you can hold the work at arms length and direct the spray down into the hopper. I built a huge cabinet that is large enough for motor cycle frames, 5x5x3. The same piece of tempered glass lasted several years with a screen in front of it.

The air only blow gun is ideal for unclogging the suction feed line too.

-JS


Hmmm.

I wonder if stretch wrap would work.

Saran wrap is a good idea as well as tempered glass.
 
I've used clear mylar in the past with good results. That way you can set it up like a helmet tear-off. Plus it's not difficult to find it on the cheap.
 

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