BJ74 with 1HD-T

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Sep 8, 2007
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Hi, I am discussing this car with a dealer in Japan. I believe it to be a BJ74 body with an HD-t engine. At least I was given the dimensions & they match the specs of a BJ74 or 73 is there a difference besides the engine?

I have just begun inquiring about the car & have many questions.

Diff locks? I've been told it has them, there are different types & what is the best.

Axles? Ditto.

They engine swap, would this create complications with future repair/maintenance or create federal inspection issues?

It also has 16" rims & what looks like a small suspension lift.

This car would be used as a daily driver & also needed for frequent trips on small mountain roads in B.C. , good combo for that?

The price is not super cheap so if it doesn't have the ideal 4X4 parts I'll pass it up & look elswhere.

Thanks in advance I hope you guys can help me ask the right questions.

bulaste
 
if you want reliablity then buy stock, find a HZJ73 and buy that or buy a BJ74, any time you buy a converted unit you are buying someone elses problems.

unless of course you are into trying and source parts for unknown engine year with unknown converted parts.

what is the serial number?

seriously, get your contact to find you a stock unit for peace of mind.
 
"any time you buy a converted unit you are buying someone elses problems. ",

Wayne, that is 100% dependent on the person who converted it- and I take offense to that statement.

11,000 miles without a single hitch for my convert. (13B-T to 1HD-T) I routinely take it on 1,100 treks without a hitch (only my pump top leaks due to the introduction of low sulfur diesel and that gasket is on order).
------------------------------------------------------

that being said- a HZJ73 would be really easy to HD-T convert- The 13B-T I had stunk on hills in Arizona/Northern Mexico and fuel economy never exceeded 21 mpg US after set timing, rebuilt injectors, and made sure everything else was tits on.

serial number of engine block and pump can source 99% of parts for engine. If anything was done using non OEM HZJ/HDJ parts they can be found.

BEB replacement history, timing belt history, etc can help out to determine how fine an engine is running etc.

BJ74's are pre 1990 and would have cable lockers-which many myself included feel are superior to electric diff locks. HZJ73's are 1990 and later and might have electric locks.

The HD-T in the FRP top truck is ideal- too bad the truck is still not delivered in that configuration.
 
have you sold this truck?

but in all fairness, yes there are good swaps out there, nice clean, solid, installs and yours might be one of the few.

BUT

if i was buying a truck from Japan sight unseen then i would be leary. that is a lot of time and money he is going to invest. no??

i would feel better about the truck if i could go look it over and go for a decent test drive...wouldn't you?
 
Hi, I am discussing this car with a dealer in Japan. I believe it to be a BJ74 body with an HD-t engine. At least I was given the dimensions & they match the specs of a BJ74 or 73 is there a difference besides the engine?
No,same body different engine.




The engine swap, would this create complications with future repair/maintenance or create federal inspection issues?

Certainly needs more investigation.I had a 3F in my 73 series and swapped it for a diesel 1HZ. My local authorities said the swap was fine but make sure the welds on the frame were neat and wiring,fuel lines etc to be tidy.
If the price is right it would allow you to rectify any deficiencies.
If its a 1990 ,it may have had a 1HZ which would make it a HZJ73

Ask the dealer for a pic of the aluminium plate on the firewall. This will tell you what engine/gearbox/diff lockers it had and any other details before its conversion.
A pic of the whole engine bay would be nice too;)





This car would be used as a daily driver & also needed for frequent trips on small mountain roads in B.C. , good combo for that?


bulaste

Perfect
 
Thanks for the replies so far, much appreciated.

It's an 89, so not an HZJ73.

If I decide to investigate further I'll keep you posted on the findings.
 
fuel economy is about same- the best single tank has been 22.4 mpg (and Jeff Bryant drove that tank).

huge performance differences. With the stock 4.11 gears (1989 cable locker axles I got from G&S) and H55 5 speed I can easily do 85 mph. Only on the steepest grades must I conserve EGT's and slow it down to 65 mph. If I adjust the boost I should get things right. I must pull the injection pump top off to replace the failed seal and then I will have the time to move the boost adjustment- and I might shim the wastegate as I only run 10.5 psi @ max.
 
Ya know whats funny.....


Hes talking about my car.

Its a BJ74 with the engine and drive train matching a 1hz. Its got E-lockers rear, cable front (will convert to full E in the future), free hubs, etcetcetcetce.

I love it. I need to get it on a trail though...maybe this weekend, I'll go up to Kampuzan.
 
if you want reliablity then buy stock, find a HZJ73 and buy that or buy a BJ74, any time you buy a converted unit you are buying someone elses problems.

I'm with Rick on this Wayne. A sceptic might think a factory vehicle retailer might want to slam converted trucks as problem units, so one gets to sell complete "stock" units...instead of buyers considering southern rust free units converted to diesel. Just as one might consider it a sales pitch if drivetrain retailers started slamming RHD factory units to try and make sales. It ain't right on either side. I don't believe this is your intent Wayne, and I also know from your years experience working on trucks that you know a general broad brush statement is not correct many times. This is one of those instances.

There are many converted trucks showing up that are incredibly stock...down to the bolts used. I am also sure there are butcher jobs out there. Each one needs to be considered in it's own light.

Knowing Rick, and knowing the level of detail that went into his conversion...it's down to the bolts.

I can say that about a few installers/Cruiserheads I know, and throwing out that statement is simply wrong Wayne.

And yes, it would be best practice for any buyer of a converted truck to be getting the year donor details, as well as any other install details. If that is not available at least the block number and work from there.

gb
 
You'll be hard pressed for a stick really. In JP manual requires a second license which is quite costly. I have an auto lic with no real desire to go through the hassle and money to get the manual.

You're right, some "necessities" are missing though.
 
I'm with Rick on this Wayne. There are many converted trucks showing up that are incredibly stock...down to the bolts used. I am also sure there are butcher jobs out there. Each one needs to be considered in it's own light.
I can say that about a few installers/Cruiserheads I know, and throwing out that statement is simply wrong Wayne.
gb

statement retracted
i do know of a few modern conversion artists that are turning out fine conversion

but

i still stand behind the importance of seeing a converted truck first hand ESPC if it is a conversion done by an unknown person/company...
 
From speaking with Sniperx, it appears that in this instance the conversion was well done. But he was in a position to determine this before the purchase so your point is well taken Wayne.

Wayne, how can you tell from that listing that there's no diff locks?
 
if there is diff locks there are indicators at the bottom of the tach...
 
Diff locks are SOOO where its at. After living life offroad without them up till now...its scary where they will take you. Learn on open diffs, then switch over...opens a whole new world to you. Make sure they don't take you some place you don't want to be. Theres serious potential to be stuck in some very bad places with this rig.
 
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