BJ74 Reverse Switch Location

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Put on a bath robe and pick up a light saber and you would look a lot like this guy. :)
 
cruiserdan said:
A member of the ih8mud forum.......You for example.
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Oh, <laughing> I thought it was a parts supply house... Would be a great name though... Mudder's LandCruiser Parts, Inc. What makes these switches work sporadically? My reverse lights work some days and not others... Seems gummed up...
 
Allen Stanion said:
Oh, <laughing> I thought it was a parts supply house... Would be a great name though... Mudder's LandCruiser Parts, Inc. What makes these switches work sporadically? My reverse lights work some days and not others... Seems gummed up...
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I would check the connections .... my 80 had a sporatic issue like that and once I clened the connections (and added dielectric grease), all was good.
 
elkaholic said:
I would check the connections .... my 80 had a sporatic issue like that and once I clened the connections (and added dielectric grease), all was good.
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You know it had crossed my mind to check that... I'm sure I've been in water deeper than that electrical pigtail connection. Definitely worth checking first... Great suggestion!
 
I have repaired the Neutral saftey switch in my HDJ81, and am about to so same in my BJ74. And yes water is the culprit. On the HDJ81 even the lights in the display N L2 D R etc were intermittent. I was lucky in that the NS switch came off the shaft easily and opened up nicely. The contacts are brass or copper and were not corroded. The problem was the little springs in behind the contact that force them onto the contact sliders. These springs are less than half the diameter of a ball point pen spring, and only a few mm long. They are made of material that corrodes ! So there was no pressure on the contacts. I ended up making new springs by re winding ball point springs into the length and diameter needed ( Painful little process , but beats paying x hundred $ for new Neutral S. switch) I also loaded up the enclosure with dielectric grease in hopes of keeping the water out. I would imagine if you can get your hands on a N.S. switch off any auto vehicle, you would find such springs. I will need to to take apart the BJ74 N.S switch soon, as I am tired of reversing with one foot on break pedal to see behind !.
 
bvissers said:
I have repaired the Neutral saftey switch in my HDJ81, and am about to so same in my BJ74. And yes water is the culprit. On the HDJ81 even the lights in the display N L2 D R etc were intermittent. I was lucky in that the NS switch came off the shaft easily and opened up nicely. The contacts are brass or copper and were not corroded. The problem was the little springs in behind the contact that force them onto the contact sliders. These springs are less than half the diameter of a ball point pen spring, and only a few mm long. They are made of material that corrodes ! So there was no pressure on the contacts. I ended up making new springs by re winding ball point springs into the length and diameter needed ( Painful little process , but beats paying x hundred $ for new Neutral S. switch) I also loaded up the enclosure with dielectric grease in hopes of keeping the water out. I would imagine if you can get your hands on a N.S. switch off any auto vehicle, you would find such springs. I will need to to take apart the BJ74 N.S switch soon, as I am tired of reversing with one foot on break pedal to see behind !.
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Great post! I will crack my NS switch open and have a look-see. One would think they'd have made the switch either waterproof and sealed or out of non-corrosive materials. Thanks for the tips! Posts like yours make this site invaluable...
 
bvissers said:
I have repaired the Neutral saftey switch in my HDJ81, and am about to so same in my BJ74. And yes water is the culprit. On the HDJ81 even the lights in the display N L2 D R etc were intermittent. I was lucky in that the NS switch came off the shaft easily and opened up nicely. The contacts are brass or copper and were not corroded. The problem was the little springs in behind the contact that force them onto the contact sliders. These springs are less than half the diameter of a ball point pen spring, and only a few mm long. They are made of material that corrodes ! So there was no pressure on the contacts. I ended up making new springs by re winding ball point springs into the length and diameter needed ( Painful little process , but beats paying x hundred $ for new Neutral S. switch) I also loaded up the enclosure with dielectric grease in hopes of keeping the water out. I would imagine if you can get your hands on a N.S. switch off any auto vehicle, you would find such springs. I will need to to take apart the BJ74 N.S switch soon, as I am tired of reversing with one foot on break pedal to see behind !.
Click to expand...
Great post! I will crack my NS switch open and have a look-see. One would think they'd have made the switch either waterproof and sealed or out of non-corrosive materials. Thanks for the tips! Posts like yours make this site invaluable...
 
The corrosion I had on my 80 was in the connector from the pigtail to the main wiring harness. Look there as well.
 
elkaholic said:
The corrosion I had on my 80 was in the connector from the pigtail to the main wiring harness. Look there as well.
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will do. Where do you get the dielectric grease? Home Depot?
 
bvissers said:
I have repaired the Neutral saftey switch in my HDJ81, and am about to so same in my BJ74. And yes water is the culprit. On the HDJ81 even the lights in the display N L2 D R etc were intermittent. I was lucky in that the NS switch came off the shaft easily and opened up nicely. The contacts are brass or copper and were not corroded. The problem was the little springs in behind the contact that force them onto the contact sliders. These springs are less than half the diameter of a ball point pen spring, and only a few mm long. They are made of material that corrodes ! So there was no pressure on the contacts. I ended up making new springs by re winding ball point springs into the length and diameter needed ( Painful little process , but beats paying x hundred $ for new Neutral S. switch) I also loaded up the enclosure with dielectric grease in hopes of keeping the water out. I would imagine if you can get your hands on a N.S. switch off any auto vehicle, you would find such springs. I will need to to take apart the BJ74 N.S switch soon, as I am tired of reversing with one foot on break pedal to see behind !.
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Question for you. My neutral safety switch looks pretty nice and new on the outside, but the flexible conduit runs up on top of the trany and disappears with no modular connector in sight (even with a mirror). I'm wondering if the pigtail connector is accessed from inside the vehicle under the automatic shifter box?
 
It had a fairly long lead but it does not enter the cab. It's up there someplace. I wish I could tell you more than that. Mine's a 5 speed so I can't go look....
 
cruiserdan said:
It had a fairly long lead but it does not enter the cab. It's up there someplace. I wish I could tell you more than that. Mine's a 5 speed so I can't go look....
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It's got to be under the shifter box on top of the trany, there's no way a human hand could fit up there...
 
Check in the engine compartment. On an 80 with the 1FZ-FE (I know, a different animal), it is up under the bottom side of the intake manifold. When I worked on mine, I cussed the designer quite a bit ... damned near as hard to reach with decent sized hands as the PHH on that motor.
 
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