WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
Sehr gut mein freund. I'm a little confused however, did Santa mean to bring you black or gray?Santa was nice and brought me a new hand brake cover.
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View attachment 2876852
BJ73 interior restore (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Felde
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
Santa has little knowledge about Landcruisers....
My interior is grey, so a grey cover is fine. The one that was in was black, though. It's utterly ripped.
I actually didn't order the part, but accidentally found it on a local classifieds page for cheap €.
- Thread starter
- #23
Time to report eine progress.
Maybe I should alter the headline of this thread, as I have been mostly under the truck
I removed all of the loose underbody coating. In some areas I could just scrap it off with a scraper right down to the primed sheet metal. It was all bridle like sand.
In other areas it was good firmly bond, though.
I got the rust holes in the passenger footwell welded.
All exposed areas in and out received 2 layers of Brantho Korrux anti corrosion coating.
Maybe I should alter the headline of this thread, as I have been mostly under the truck
I removed all of the loose underbody coating. In some areas I could just scrap it off with a scraper right down to the primed sheet metal. It was all bridle like sand.
In other areas it was good firmly bond, though.
I got the rust holes in the passenger footwell welded.
All exposed areas in and out received 2 layers of Brantho Korrux anti corrosion coating.
- Thread starter
- #24
After a week of curing, I put in Butyl Sound Deadner today.
The stuff is called Noico (2mm). Got it from Amazon.
The stuff is called Noico (2mm). Got it from Amazon.
- Thread starter
- #25
What did I do in the week the Brantho was curing? Being lazy? Well, no. 
I started a project for a storage bag on the spare wheel carrier.
Pictures to come...
I started a project for a storage bag on the spare wheel carrier.
Pictures to come...
- Thread starter
- #26
The bag for the spare wheel carrier was completed a while ago.
It's a solid canvas bag with leather enforcement and straps. It's from the Czech army. Probably from the 70s.
I put a stainless steel frame into it to bold to the spare wheel carrier. I used snap fastners to attach the bag to the frame. I also installed some lashing points on it.
It's a solid canvas bag with leather enforcement and straps. It's from the Czech army. Probably from the 70s.
I put a stainless steel frame into it to bold to the spare wheel carrier. I used snap fastners to attach the bag to the frame. I also installed some lashing points on it.
- Thread starter
- #27
The B- pillar (roll bar) garnish didn't look great. It was cracked and the surface was all bridle.
The parts are (of course) NLA.
A used parts dealer ask 150€ each (!) for used ones not much better than mine.
So I tried to refurbish mine...
I fixed the cracks with epoxi and glass fiber mesh.
I found that the bridle structured surface can be removed. It is a separate layer. The ABS panel beneath is solid. (I noted the same e.g. on the interior handles over the doors and on the windshield).
Sandig the structured layer down doesn't work well, but it can be scraped off with a blade...
The parts are (of course) NLA.
A used parts dealer ask 150€ each (!) for used ones not much better than mine.
So I tried to refurbish mine...
I fixed the cracks with epoxi and glass fiber mesh.
I found that the bridle structured surface can be removed. It is a separate layer. The ABS panel beneath is solid. (I noted the same e.g. on the interior handles over the doors and on the windshield).
Sandig the structured layer down doesn't work well, but it can be scraped off with a blade...
- Thread starter
- #28
I filled the cracks with a polyester bondo designated for plastic bumpers, and gave it a good sanding.
The surface is even and piebald now.
There are special spray primers available to recreate the structured surface of automotive plastic. I used a variety called 'fine'. 'Course' probably would have been better, but I had no samples to compare.
I then coated the items with ivory acrylic paint from a rattle can.
Turned out quite ok.
Lession learned: The structuring spray primer does not hide any uneven spots or scratches. When scraping off the old surface, some scratches are inevitable.
The surface would require same cautious preparation like for a normal paintjob.
But it looks 100% better now than the cracked and worn surface did.
The surface is even and piebald now.
There are special spray primers available to recreate the structured surface of automotive plastic. I used a variety called 'fine'. 'Course' probably would have been better, but I had no samples to compare.
I then coated the items with ivory acrylic paint from a rattle can.
Turned out quite ok.
Lession learned: The structuring spray primer does not hide any uneven spots or scratches. When scraping off the old surface, some scratches are inevitable.
The surface would require same cautious preparation like for a normal paintjob.
But it looks 100% better now than the cracked and worn surface did.
- Thread starter
- #31
One clip was missing, and the remaining ones where dirty and off color.
Those clips are now made from pure unobtainium.
I ordered 6 directly with a Toyota dealership, but only got one... Out of stock, probably NLA now?
Well, I exactly missed one.
Also the big covers for screw holes in the upper roll bar garnish were all dirty, bridle and cracked. Those are available new, still but only in grey! Ivory is NLA.
So I also had to spray the clips and covers:
Those clips are now made from pure unobtainium.
I ordered 6 directly with a Toyota dealership, but only got one... Out of stock, probably NLA now?
Well, I exactly missed one.
Also the big covers for screw holes in the upper roll bar garnish were all dirty, bridle and cracked. Those are available new, still but only in grey! Ivory is NLA.
So I also had to spray the clips and covers:
- Thread starter
- #32
Reassembled the truck today...
Bare interior, with Alubutyl sound deadner.
Insulation. I removed those recycled Japanese pantries from the back of the floor mat and also the recycling material the PO put in. This stuff holds moisture.
I put closed cell PE foam, aka camping mattress from Walmart. Yes, it's ugly
Then the restored floor back in.
Real thight fit. The insulating is only 8mm, but that's enough to give issue in width door to door.
Those plastic channels in the doors barely fit. Maybe the mat shrunk over time also.
Anyway it's very stiff as most of the softener is out.
The rails in the doors are actually good, but worn. The screw do not spread the clips wide enough any more.
Anyone an idea how to fix that?
Bare interior, with Alubutyl sound deadner.
Insulation. I removed those recycled Japanese pantries from the back of the floor mat and also the recycling material the PO put in. This stuff holds moisture.
I put closed cell PE foam, aka camping mattress from Walmart. Yes, it's ugly
Then the restored floor back in.
Real thight fit. The insulating is only 8mm, but that's enough to give issue in width door to door.
Those plastic channels in the doors barely fit. Maybe the mat shrunk over time also.
Anyway it's very stiff as most of the softener is out.
The rails in the doors are actually good, but worn. The screw do not spread the clips wide enough any more.
Anyone an idea how to fix that?
- Thread starter
- #33
The restored B-pillar garnish back in place.
Looks great
Look at the pics of the condition before the restore, up this thread. What a difference.
Looks great
Look at the pics of the condition before the restore, up this thread. What a difference.
- Thread starter
- #34
I also restored the back side panels and back door panels. I don't have originals. Mine were fabed by the PO.
All got a fresh spray.
There where just ugly, poorly aligned holes drilled in for the rear vents. I covered those with a nice vent cover.
Fresh clips in matching colors. Nice.
I also made this tray over the wheel arch.
Usually I have boxes standing next to the wheel arch. I used the gap to store my longer gear, like collapsible chair and poles for the awning. But the stuff tended to slip off the wheel arch to the front. Let's see how this works.
All got a fresh spray.
There where just ugly, poorly aligned holes drilled in for the rear vents. I covered those with a nice vent cover.
Fresh clips in matching colors. Nice.
I also made this tray over the wheel arch.
Usually I have boxes standing next to the wheel arch. I used the gap to store my longer gear, like collapsible chair and poles for the awning. But the stuff tended to slip off the wheel arch to the front. Let's see how this works.
- Thread starter
- #35
Well, the covers for the side pockets look somewhat strange. They are originals, thus I hesitated spraying them.
Maybe some original side panels will find their way to me one time....
That's about it. No parts left in the box, good
Maybe some original side panels will find their way to me one time....
That's about it. No parts left in the box, good
This is amazing work.
- Thread starter
- #38
Hi
I religiously apply FluidFilm Gel BN on all nuts, bolts and contact surfaces in between bolt-on parts. Its highly penetrating. BN has a greasy, but non sticky consistency. It is not actually a grease, but it has some lubrication abilities, too (great on e.g. hinges or parking brake cables). and does not harm paint. It is said to affect rubber parts, though, but I never had an issue in that regard anyways.
Cheers Ralf
I religiously apply FluidFilm Gel BN on all nuts, bolts and contact surfaces in between bolt-on parts. Its highly penetrating. BN has a greasy, but non sticky consistency. It is not actually a grease, but it has some lubrication abilities, too (great on e.g. hinges or parking brake cables). and does not harm paint. It is said to affect rubber parts, though, but I never had an issue in that regard anyways.
Cheers Ralf
Thanks a lot Ralf!
Please bear with me, just one more question, as I know from your posts you have experience fighting with rust.
What is your best option for cavity protection (some wax, I guess)?Have a good day!
- Thread starter
- #40
That's also almost a religious question.Thanks a lot Ralf!
Please bear with me, just one more question, as I know from your posts you have experience fighting with rust.
Have a good day!
There are multiple products out there.
State if the art for internal cavities are products with penetrating capabilities, combined with the abilityto stick to even surfaces. Wax, even when heated, doesn't do that. Greasy products, e.g. FluidFilm or MikeSanders, do a better job in cavities.
For exposed areas, probably even seeing water and dust (e.g. frame), a soft & sticky surface would not be helpful as it would attract dirt and probably erode. Here a product that eventually dries up and forms a firm surface is more desirable.
For cavities that have already some rust in it, a layered approach is recommended: A highly penetrating product first, then a sealing & protecting product. There are compatible products available, e.g. FluidFilm + Permafilm.
For crevasses, I recommend Owatrol: It first penetrates and then cures.
Be aware:
- Correct application is crucial but difficult. Many products need to be sprayed heated and with a professional gun and probe .
- It is a hughe mess.
I recommend a professional shop to have it done.
- Some products need a rather long time (weeks) to first penetrate and then cure. If you use the rig and dirt sticks to it during that period, you will end up with a nasty look and never get rid of it again (Happened to me).
- Anyways: You will never get rid of the stuff again!
- The stuff is flammable. Welding on a treated vehicle is risky.
I applied Mike Sanders to my body cavities, which is fine, and Permafilm to my frame, floor panels and wheel wells, which does look ugly.
In cavities such stuff is great, but on exposed areas, I wouldn't do it again, but rather go for a decent paintjob.
Good Luck Ralf
