BJ60 Super Glow Troubleshoot (1 Viewer)

[FJ40SBC]

Back for some more help from the more experienced. I got a 1984 BJ60, first diesel and I've been learning and searching as much as I can but need some guidance on this one. My superglow has been running flawlessly up until recently it's been cold starting pretty hard. I haven't checked air leaks as of yet but I'm pretty confident air isn't an issue as I've eliminated a few this past winter, busbar gets 12V and knocks down to 5-6V afterglow as it should but also maintains a constant 5V after both relays cycle off Correct me if I'm wrong, but once the super glow system times out there isn't supposed to be any voltage going to the busbar? Gut tells me one of the relays isn't closing properly but I'm hoping someone has dealt with this before and can point me down the right path. I know most peoples answer is the Wilson switch but I would like to keep this rig factory if possible. Timer works and I also picked up a second hand timer in good shape for a bargain so I'm kind of committed to keeping the system. This also started when i had some corrosion build up on the battery terminals - cleaned them up as well as all the relay connections and bus bar with no improvement.

Any input is greatly appreciated

 

[tlaporte]

In a stock configuration the only sources of voltage to the bus bar should be from the battery through the relays to the bus bar. Of course that voltage traverses the fusible links and the various resistors, but as a SOURCE or power, it’s the battery through the relays.

So, if you are getting voltage at the bus bar after the glow system should have shut off I would think your guess about the relays is a good one. And since you are measuring 5V I would suspect the afterglow relay, rather than the main relay.

Either that, or there is some funky PO mod or change that is feeding 5V to the bus bar.

 

[FJ40SBC]

In a stock configuration the only sources of voltage to the bus bar should be from the battery through the relays to the bus bar. Of course that voltage traverses the fusible links and the various resistors, but as a SOURCE or power, it’s the battery through the relays.

So, if you are getting voltage at the bus bar after the glow system should have shut off I would think your guess about the relays is a good one. And since you are measuring 5V I would suspect the afterglow relay, rather than the main relay.

Either that, or there is some funky PO mod or change that is feeding 5V to the bus bar.

Secondary relay was exactly what I was thinking when I read the voltage off the Buspar. Seems logical to me . Already making a shopping list off Toyota Parts Direct so I'll just order a secondary relay. Might as well order new plugs.. bought more plugs in the last year than I care to admit

 

[duncanrm]

Are you measuring that 5V with a Digital Voltmeter? If so, I would be deeply suspicious of it. A current measurement would confirm if the 5V is actually leading to any appreciable current flow. A repeat voltage measurement with a low impedance meter, or an analog meter would further confirm.

You can completely rule out a superglow fault if a jumper lead from your battery 12V+ to your glow rail for 5 seconds still doesn't result in an easy start (although you're in Canada and I hear it gets mighty cold there, so you experience may vary).

 

[duncanrm]

Secondary relay was exactly what I was thinking when I read the voltage off the Buspar. Seems logical to me . Already making a shopping list off Toyota Parts Direct so I'll just order a secondary relay. Might as well order new plugs.. bought more plugs in the last year than I care to admit

Something else maybe going on if you're replacing plugs frequently. Maybe the plug voltage you're selecting is wrong.

 

[FJ40SBC]

Are you measuring that 5V with a Digital Voltmeter? If so, I would be deeply suspicious of it. A current measurement would confirm if the 5V is actually leading to any appreciable current flow. A repeat voltage measurement with a low impedance meter, or an analog meter would further confirm.

You can completely rule out a superglow fault if a jumper lead from your battery 12V+ to your glow rail for 5 seconds still doesn't result in an easy start (although you're in Canada and I hear it gets mighty cold there, so you experience may vary).

I am using a digital multimeter. That is a good point, using a few more methods to confirm is a good idea, although I am pretty confident the multimeter is accurate. When I picked up my second hand timer I put the multi on to track the voltage and it did read 0 volts once the afterglow shut off. I should pick up a few more meters regardless.

 

[FJ40SBC]

Something else maybe going on if you're replacing plugs frequently. Maybe the plug voltage you're selecting is wrong.

So I replaced the plugs when I first bought the vehicles as they were indeed the wrong voltage (10.5V) and I still had hard start issues. Eventually found it was a glow switch that wasn't sending power to the glow plugs and I was cold starting with zero glow in the frigid -20's and -30's, killed those pretty good. Then on my second set I learned you don't start when the glow light goes out after 3 seconds and by the time I figured it out 1 plug blew out so I'm currently on my third set. These were all the proper 6V glow plugs that I've bought from Radd Cruisers.

 

[FJ40SBC]

A bit late, but finally got the relay from Toyota Direct. I tried getting both but they no longer supply the main relay, but that can be swapped out with a generic NAPA relay down the road.

Anyway, just put the new relay in and tested the glow cycle with the vehicle off, everything worked and shut off perfectly .... turn the vehicle on, without restarting the cycle, and it got an initial 12V jump on the bus bar and dropped back to a constant 5.4V ... what the sam hell!? Relays click off as they should, timer is good... I'm digging up all of the Superglow threads to find another component that I might have missed but I'm pretty stumped.

 

[FJ40SBC]

Okay found the issue, voltage is coming through the primary relay. Picked up the volts off the power stud with the black and blue stripe wire on the left side of the relay. So probably going to order a NAPA GPR109 relay and try to wire that up and see if that solves it. If that fails - wilson switch.

 

[bj70bc]

wilson is nice for the control you get, 'youglow switch'!

 

[FJ40SBC]

wilson is nice for the control you get, 'youglow switch'!

One day I'll be going wilson switch, but for now I'm hoping to keep the superglow

 

[FJ40SBC]

So finally got the new relay, does anyone know which post is what and which factory wire is which? Tried finding any diagram for the relay but couldn't find anything. The little factory wires are black and black/blue stripe I believe

 

[sodafeld1]

That kind of looks like a 4 post solenoid relay which the little terminals run to earth and a switch which opens the big terminals. Typically used on dual battery set ups. Kind of hesitate that shall do the trick, feels like stabbing in the dark from here.

If you can't sort the mystery of power still at your busbar perhaps you can replace superglow relay, maybe. You have to hunt down the source of the leak, which would probably shorten the life of your glows.

Personally I am a fan of a wilson switch as you control how hot your glows get, then let go of the button to stop the juice going to the busbar. Our relays are over 30 years old after all..

Or, there is a young fella here in Melbourne, who is just starting production of superglow relays , glow plug timer, with an inbuilt wilson switch option. His website is reviveyourrig.com He is also making new edic controls. He uses modern resistors which are sealed, so way more sealed than the old style open copper wound resistors.


I don't get a commission from him but he is really bright and I really like him, so always give him a plug. He is most reasonably priced and does an excellent job. Can get in touch with him if you want it looking stock, his brand new relay shall fit your original box.

 

[FJ40SBC]

That kind of looks like a 4 post solenoid relay which the little terminals run to earth and a switch which opens the big terminals. Typically used on dual battery set ups. Kind of hesitate that shall do the trick, feels like stabbing in the dark from here.

If you can't sort the mystery of power still at your busbar perhaps you can replace superglow relay, maybe. You have to hunt down the source of the leak, which would probably shorten the life of your glows.

Personally I am a fan of a wilson switch as you control how hot your glows get, then let go of the button to stop the juice going to the busbar. Our relays are over 30 years old after all..

Or, there is a young fella here in Melbourne, who is just starting production of superglow relays , glow plug timer, with an inbuilt wilson switch option. His website is reviveyourrig.com He is also making new edic controls. He uses modern resistors which are sealed, so way more sealed than the old style open copper wound resistors.


I don't get a commission from him but he is really bright and I really like him, so always give him a plug. He is most reasonably priced and does an excellent job. Can get in touch with him if you want it looking stock, his brand new relay shall fit your original box.

You're right, technically a solenoid, but I think a fair few have used these in replacement of the factory primary relay, superglow or wilson. It will still shut off as long as the timer works and I have two functional timers. Reason I suspect the main glow relay is because I'm picking up 5V off the big studs. Also, when I hear the relay "click off", I don't get a big jump on my volt meter.

Is the super glow relay under the footwell? I was only aware of the glow relays and fuel relay on the inner fender and the glow timer. That sounds like an awesome idea to build in a wilson switch option with factory relays! I'd be very interested if he can make something up for a Canadian 3B!

 

[sodafeld1]

You're right, technically a solenoid, but I think a fair few have used these in replacement of the factory primary relay, superglow or wilson. It will still shut off as long as the timer works and I have two functional timers. Reason I suspect the main glow relay is because I'm picking up 5V off the big studs. Also, when I hear the relay "click off", I don't get a big jump on my volt meter.

Is the super glow relay under the footwell? I was only aware of the glow relays and fuel relay on the inner fender and the glow timer. That sounds like an awesome idea to build in a wilson switch option with factory relays! I'd be very interested if he can make something up for a Canadian 3B!

yeah I guess it would work as you don't need any of the glow stuff once running. Bit clunky. But good chances if there is corrosion in the timer box, it shall get worse for other gremlins.
I spent a period having to disconnect my battery on my old b engine years ago once started, which was even more clunky!.

I'd have to look it up where it is, think left foot well wall or behind glove box, can't remember. The super glow is the glow timer.

I highly recommend getting in contact with reviveyourrig, he is an electronic wizard and already doing the 12v and 24v edic control, so am sure he can make a glow timer for you 12v or 24v. He is not too greedy like most out there, nice guy.

 

[FJ40SBC]

yeah I guess it would work as you don't need any of the glow stuff once running. Bit clunky. But good chances if there is corrosion in the timer box, it shall get worse for other gremlins.
I spent a period having to disconnect my battery on my old b engine years ago once started, which was even more clunky!.

I'd have to look it up where it is, think left foot well wall or behind glove box, can't remember. The super glow is the glow timer.

I highly recommend getting in contact with reviveyourrig, he is an electronic wizard and already doing the 12v and 24v edic control, so am sure he can make a glow timer for you 12v or 24v. He is not too greedy like most out there, nice guy.

Ohhhh I gotcha, yeah they're in the left foot well. I popped open both of my timers and with my 0 electrical skills they looked clean to me.

I'm definitely going to give him a shout. His site does offer 12 and 24v timers with a 3 in 1 upgrade which probably refers to what you were saying with the built in wilson switch. In the meantime, hoping this solenoid will keep the glow plugs from frying. And hopefully i don't cross the polarity first go .

 

[sodafeld1]

Ohhhh I gotcha, yeah they're in the left foot well. I popped open both of my timers and with my 0 electrical skills they looked clean to me.

I'm definitely going to give him a shout. His site does offer 12 and 24v timers with a 3 in 1 upgrade which probably refers to what you were saying with the built in wilson switch. In the meantime, hoping this solenoid will keep the glow plugs from frying. And hopefully i don't cross the polarity first go .

Cool.
If you ever watch diesel rebuild videos, first start ups test, experienced folks just bridge the battery to the busbar with jump cables for 3-5 secs then jump the starter with the same cable whilst the engine is sitting on a tyre.