Builds BJ42 Restoration (14 Viewers)

[Crescent Wrench]

On another note I am needing the rear cross member angled gussets, and spring mounts. Any suggestions where to buy these from?
I have looked at Cruiser solutions but I want to shop around and make sure I am getting the best price

 

[alberta mac]

Mine had rusted out on my 42 also. I measured them up and had a shop bend me some channel, I cut and welded them at the angle I wanted and welded them in place.
Find a local welding fab shop, and give them a drawing, they should be happy to bend up a 14 ga piece of metal for you for a fair price.

 

[Crescent Wrench]

Thanks Alberta Mac, but I need more than just the frame ends I need the hangers, factory looking cross member so that I can install factory tail lights and the angle gussets as well. I know Cruiser Solutions makes a decent looking set but I am looking for other sources as well to be a bit more competitive with regards to pricing.

 

[jfrench]

Thanks Alberta Mac, but I need more than just the frame ends I need the hangers, factory looking cross member so that I can install factory tail lights and the angle gussets as well. I know Cruiser Solutions makes a decent looking set but I am looking for other sources as well to be a bit more competitive with regards to pricing.

http://stores.ebay.com/landcruiserparts This link will have everything you need for rear frame repair and I think I remember reading somewhere that he is the source for Cruiser Solutions. Buy direct and save. I'm following this closely as I need rear frame repair and am likely going the 3/4 Aqualu route. Good luck EDIT: the eBay store isn't selling the diagonal pieces any more but the rest are cheaper than Cruiser Solutions, enough to cover the cost of 1 diagonal from them

 

[bikersmurf]

Awlteq has had rear frame components in the past and he's north of the 49th.

 

[Crescent Wrench]

Jfrench / bikersmurph thanks for the tips, very much appreciated.
Today's nightmare is the axle pivot knuckles on the end of the front axle housing. I have bad pitting on one of them and I'm not sure on how to proceed, if I try to polish it a bit it Maugham make the wiper seal last a bit longer but the only other option is to replace them or likely the housing. Thoughts on this ?

 

[Ambrew]

I would take the time and make the rear parts bolt it. If ever you get rear ended, it would be a bitch to cut them out. just my .02c

 

[bikersmurf]

Jfrench / bikersmurph thanks for the tips, very much appreciated.
Today's nightmare is the axle pivot knuckles on the end of the front axle housing. I have bad pitting on one of them and I'm not sure on how to proceed, if I try to polish it a bit it Maugham make the wiper seal last a bit longer but the only other option is to replace them or likely the housing. Thoughts on this ?

I'd ask around and get a new housing. Although its hard to see how bad it is. Any axle housing 69ish up will do. You could even use a 60 housing (although its 3" wider). I've thrown out a few over the years.

 

[too tall]

I would just polish it as best you can and run it . If you want a new housing I have lots of 40 ones . Pm me if you need one .

 

[Crescent Wrench]

I would just polish it as best you can and run it . If you want a new housing I have lots of 40 ones . Pm me if you need one .

Thanks TooTall , I'll Devcon or jb weld the ball and then epoxy it 2 or 3 times and try it. I will definitely keep you in mind.

 

[Crescent Wrench]

On another note the frame is sand blasted and I out the first coat of Por15 on it. Frame came out really good, I still need to easy out a few broken bolts, and replace the rear frame rails. I also received a package from Vic today with the rear spring hangers, frame rails , cross members, some badges and 3 foot pedal rubbers. Very exciting day today. I hope he gets the rest blasted tomorrow and I will do some more painting and then post some more pics

 

[The Red Camel]

Looking at your thread it brings me back five years when I did the same thing to my 1984 bj42. My cruiser did not have as much rust as yours. I took it all apart and bagged and tagged everything.

What sucks is I gave up on her and I sold it.

Keep going on your truck it deserves it.

 

[Crescent Wrench]

Red Camel,
yea it's an major undertaking to say the least. Money is flying out the door at an alarming rate. I am almost where I want to be for this year tho. I still need a few parts and goodies right away and then I will putter on the rest while I wait for extra cash to come in

 

[Crescent Wrench]

So the frame rails and cross sill came in from Vic in Michigan. I jigged and tacked it all up and measured everything twice then tacked some more and then welded it out. I opted to put a 3/16" doubler plate on the outside of each frame rail covering the seam, not because it needs it but for piece of mind. I also want to be able to tow with this rig so it can never be strong enough. Vic's cross sill and angle gussets fit well I only has to open up two holes so I'm happy with that.

 

[Crescent Wrench]

Just some other pictures, I had some people interested in this part of the restoration regarding cutting and replacing the frame rails.

 

[Weber Sarge]

Two things , no offense intended .

One, that splice should never be 90* to the frame rail or straight up and down - it should be angled at 45* or so , way more weld area and much stronger .

Two , I only see one weld bead run that looks like it penetrated . These welds should have been set with a 1/16"-1/8" gap and fully burned through the metal . It's tough to get a full burn through weld with the seam butted up tight with a mig .

If nothing else , cut some diamond shaped plates at least a few inches longer than the seam and weld it to the outside of the frame .

Sarge

 

[Crescent Wrench]

I agree with the angle cut being a longer weld but chose not to do it because I beveled all the edges which is hard to see from the picture. It is welded out 100% inside and out, and when you bevel the mating surfaces you guarantee penetration. I have built very large ships in my career and have never had an issue with a but weld. Thanks for the input tho.

 

[Crescent Wrench]

Oh and one of the pictures shows the diamond doubler I put on both outside frame rails extending approximately 2 -3 inches past the seam. I'm confident this will hold.

 

[JDCruiser]

Crescent,
looks good to me. I wish my welds were that pretty!!!!
Your frame will crack and split up some where near the mid section, long before these welds let go.... Unless you try to move your tow your house away on dry pavement, no need to worry.... And if towing your house was on your mind, you got much bigger worries than your BJ42 frame!

 

[Crescent Wrench]

Well I'm back at it, it's been a busy month with work, rebuilding the landcruiser and a vacation. I took the family to Mexico for their first Caribbean holiday. It was bloody expensive and that money would have got me 60% finished on this project but it was worth spending quality time with the wife and kids.
So I was able to find some hard top sides in decent shape and brought them to the sandblaster. As of now I am $1200 into blasting and still have the cowl and 4 doors to do, not a great deal but there was a ton of stuff to be cleaned so I guess its fare by Canadian standards. We just pay more here for some reason. I used POR15 on everything under the body and steering components. So it should hold back the rust for awhile.
I am under the gun to get the panels repaired before the rust starts to bloom on them again. So far I have the roof drip cap, bib, hard top sides, and tire carrier at the painters to be primered that way it will stay until I am ready for sheet metal and won't get scratched in my ridiculously small space.