BJ42 radiator (1 Viewer)

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Does anyone know if the radiators at Nation Wide Radiators in OZ are of good quality? I had my OEM radiator repaired but am thinking of new if they are decent.

Theyve been around for 60 years or more and Ive never heard anything bad.
Like I said earlier,they most probably have someone making them in Taiwan/Malaysia/Indonesia to their specs. Lots of oz companies do that and the parts are generally high quality.
They are offering a 5 year warranty on radiators(non commercial use only)
 
Cost of shipping would normally kill the idea of purchasing a radiator from overseas

:cheers:
 
I used an aluminum from Summit racing. Took some extra fab to fit it in the frame but it works really well.
 
Cost of shipping would normally kill the idea of purchasing a radiator from overseas

:cheers:

How much would one weigh?
A 1HZ rotary pump@7.5 kg (costs $199AUD to north america for air mail and takes 3-10 days.
$90 for sea mail and takes 4 weeks.
Add another $20 for $500 insurance
Source Australia Post
 
How much would one weigh?
A 1HZ rotary pump@7.5 kg (costs $199AUD to north america for air mail and takes 3-10 days.
$90 for sea mail and takes 4 weeks.
Add another $20 for $500 insurance
Source Australia Post

I admit I was basing my shipping comment mainly on how I've found USA-based companies tend to behave when shipping overseas to me Rosco.

I'd expect a bill of at least $US200 for a USA company to ship a radiator to me.

And by the word "shipping" I include the associated cost of "protective packaging".

If a radiator could be shipped reliably from Australia to the States for just $90 then that would make it worth considering. But I would be surprised. (I would have expected more than $A90 just to get it reliably to New Zealand.)

In comparison with a radiator, an injection pump is compact and damage-resistant.

But then again .... I'm always being surprised by shipping costs:meh: Some eBay sellers in far off lands amaze me how cheaply they can ship. However I do think cheap options for bulky easily-damaged items like radiators must be very limited when you get down to actually doing it.

And if a company is asked to choose a cheap untracked shipping method, they obviously won't take any responsibility for non-delivery or damaged-delivery.
 
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Can't speak for anywhere else but the governmental postal systems have been BY FAR the cheapest way to get stuff to and from Japan. Any private carriers are way too expensive. I inquired BTW if the company there in NZ will/does also make a radiator for trucks with Power Steering (i.e. inlet on the left.) We'll see.


Pete
 
I admit I was basing my shipping comment mainly on how I've found USA-based companies tend to behave when shipping overseas to me Rosco.

I'd expect a bill of at least $US200 for a USA company to ship a radiator to me.

And by the word "shipping" I include the associated cost of "protective packaging".

If a radiator could be shipped reliably from Australia to the States for just $90 then that would make it worth considering. But I would be surprised. (I would have expected more than $A90 just to get it reliably to New Zealand.)

In comparison with a radiator, an injection pump is compact and damage-resistant.

But then again .... I'm always being surprised by shipping costs:meh: Some eBay sellers in far off lands amaze me how cheaply they can ship. However I do think cheap options for bulky easily-damaged items like radiators must be very limited when you get down to actually doing it.

And if a company is asked to choose a cheap untracked shipping method, they obviously won't take any responsibility for non-delivery or damaged-delivery.

I think a radiator would be ok wrapped in styrofoam and strapped tight in a good solid box.
I agree with shipping prices though , they are all over the place like a mad womans crap.

The $90 was for a 7.5kg item,Im not sure how much a radiator weighs but it would be ball park.
Parcel/box sizes can be up to 105cm in one dimension and no more than a 140cm with 2 sides combined.
I think a radiator would meet those requirements.
 
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I just checked with Nationwide in Oz and was quoted approx 230.00 for shipping the radiator to central USA.
 
I just checked with Nationwide in Oz and was quoted approx 230.00 for shipping the radiator to central USA.

Was that air or sea mail? If its airmail,thats not a bad price.
 
Air mail, said it would take about a week.

So that would be about $660 all up delivered to your door. If Toyota sold them new,they would probably be dearer than that.
 
I had my 70 series CDM spec rad record a few years back and now one spot where they fixed on the top of the top tank has a tiny weeping spot from under a solder patch...

Any idea on the best way to fix it? drain it sand the spot, flux, reheat and apply more solder?
 
I had my 70 series CDM spec rad record a few years back and now one spot where they fixed on the top of the top tank has a tiny weeping spot from under a solder patch...

Any idea on the best way to fix it? drain it sand the spot, flux, reheat and apply more solder?

Same thing happened on my FJ73 radiator. The metal gets too thin if it hasnt been loved all its life and the corrosion gets to it.
If think mine was repaired twice.
If you re going to keep the 70,might be best to start looking for a new one.

On mine ,it was time for a 1HZ conversion ,so the 3F rad went for scrap.
 
My BJ41 re-core

I was told it was best to re-core my original rad. The tech praised my original rad, said it was a real solid radiator. I re-cored to the max just to be sure she runs cool in the deserts of California. So far,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,perfect and it has been over a year. I do not know anything about the after market Rads. Thanks for the comment. No, I did not buy it off of Ebay and I do not think the previous owner placed it on Ebay. It's a BJ41 / 1980. Folks in Japan and P.O. took wonderful care of it. I got lucky finding it. fjfjfj
 
Hey guys, I know this is an ancient thread, but I'm trying to figure out the dimensions of a rad for a B engine. The one in mine needs repair/replacing. One mechanic is telling me that the rad is too small and not the original, but the one he says should fit is clearly for another engine (inlet/outlet don't match up). I don't discount his advice, but I'm not sure he's 100% correct either. The size difference seems minimal to me. I'm 1200 metres in the mountains in Honduras. Not too hot, not too cold. Overheating has been an issue though, and the rad is clearly leaking. Thanks!
 
I think this is it (in metric):

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Does anyone have photos of the OEM radiator, showing the location of the original drain petocock, and also which of the mounting holes are used for the fan shroud?
 
I know this is an OLD thread. Wondering is anyone has more updated info on replacement radiator for a 3B with inlet and out let on the Left hand side. Found the below one on Amaz. and was thinking of giving it a try. I don't have a local re-core shop, my original top cap has a pin hole, also leaking down low but not sure where exactly. Thanks for and feedback.
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i carry both the 4/86 and Earlier BIG CAPS

and

4/86 - later Small caps

- these are Genuine NipponDenso heavy duty high heat / cold spec. and the BIG cap has a factory pre-punched retainer chain hole too...


- the metal is not simply zinc plated , its a mix of a higher make that IS better corrosion proof , NOT as magnetitic

- both epdm rubber gaskts are tad thicker too

- both made in japan and sold there ONLY too

- the both have the ND logo stamped on the ears , and the factory 0.9 correct spec. punched on other ear

i run these on all my personal toyota vehicles , no issues ,



- this is the BEST of the BEST in OEM radiator caps period ,...





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BIG CAP SIZE CHART I MADE UP , 1962-4/86


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