I'm wrestling with a starter issue on a 1978 BJ40 and Specter Off Road has a reman starter but they are asking me if my BJ40 is the EDIC variety. I have no clue. The truck came from Costa Rica. Can someone explain what EDIC is all about and how to identify if this is what I have in the BJ40?
Take a photo of the left hand side of the engine around the IP area (IP = injector pump), below the diesel fuel filter at the back of the vacant LH battery tray area? and then we can tell as this photo does not show that area clearly.
Here's some photos of the area you describe. This is a supposed to be a 78 BJ40 but I would be interested to know if the starter looks correct compared to yours.
Non EDIC you have a manual fuel shut off.
That would be the rods going from the venturi down to the IP.
There is probably some sort of choke cable thingy in the cab which cuts out your fuel to stop the motor I am not too familiar with the non-EDIC .
I am sure some of the others with the BJ40 will chime in to confirm.
You may want to install a second battery before winter sets in she will start better on them cold mornings not sure if you are 12V or 24V but you will run your cables either in series or parallel depending on your voltage.
A couple of observations the clear secondary filter is not needed plus it looks to have alot of air in it should be full of fuel.
One other thing look into getting the rest of the air intake hose goes from the bib back to the canister so you are getting cooler air intake.
It's a 12V BJ40. My real problem is the starter, which you can see in the photo. The starter had a bad gear. I was replacing the clutch at a tranny shop, they pulled the starter and I took it to have it repaired (supposedly) and after they re-installed the starter it just clicks!
You can hear the gear move but it will not turn the engine over. We put a bootser on it to make sure it was getting plenty of power. I've had the engine running so we know it runs. Not sure what the issue is. I was going to order a reman starter from SOR but the one they have is for an EDIC motor. If I could find another non-EDIC starter I'd try that but they seem to be unobtainium!
I guess I will have to have them pull the starter again and take it back to the guys who supposedly fixed it for testing.
Unfortunately I agree that your starter motor looks like the very rare 28100-56021 1.8kW version Overton.
It is different from the one in my 1979 BJ40 (with EDIC) which is "2.5kW gear-reduction" (and the same starter that appears in the later 12V BJ42 models with their 3B engines).
I'm not sure if your engine can be adapted to run my starter or not. But I suspect it would be difficult because even the flywheel ring gear changes (from 112 teeth in yours to 110 teeth in mine).
I thought your starter disappeared after Sept 1977 production. But perhaps a Sept 1977 production gets labelled in some parts of the world as a 1978?
And that injection pump is similarly unusual. If I'm not mistaken, it has it's own oil (separate from your B-engine and unlike my 1979) and even has it's own little dipstick and ventilates its crankcase via a little air filter too.
I CAN tell you that dipstick you see in the photo is the only dipstick on this engine and appears to be where you check the oil level. My other BJ40 (1980) has a dip stick on top of the motor but this motor does not have that. Took me awhile to find it!
I CAN tell you that dipstick you see in the photo is the only dipstick on this engine and appears to be where you check the oil level. My other BJ40 (1980) has a dip stick on top of the motor but this motor does not have that. Took me awhile to find it!
I'm wrestling with a starter issue on a 1978 BJ40 and Specter Off Road has a reman starter but they are asking me if my BJ40 is the EDIC variety. I have no clue. The truck came from Costa Rica. Can someone explain what EDIC is all about and how to identify if this is what I have in the BJ40?
Regarding the dipstick - That may be a dipstick, Looks as if it is according to the parts diagram. I have never noticed it nor pulled on it so i'm going to check it out. I thought you were talking about this dipstick.
Regarding how I turn the engine off - I have to pull a knob on the dash? = NO EDIC
I guess I'm going to have to have the tranny shop where the truck is pull that starter out and take it back to the shop that repaired it for further testing.
We pulled the starter back out of the truck. It clicks when you turn the key but the starter tests fine on the bench where I had the new gear installed. They tell me it could be the solenoid so we're going to try to find a new or reman solenoid. Here are some photos of the starter. it would be great if I could confirm this IS the 28100-56021 1.8kW version. Any help is appreciated.
G
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Do you still have the old drive gear? And how many teeth does it have on it compared to the new one?
PS... There may well be information of interest to you in those thread above...
I see someone with your problem has even apparently successfully adapted a gear-reduction starter ... but I've just been skim-reading and not really paying attention properly
There was a surprising new development today. The electric shop replaced some contacts on the solenoid and I took the starter back to the transmission shop and had it reinstalled in the BJ40 and it worked! They took the cruiser for a test drive to check out the new clutch and when they got back and turned it off the starter just clicked when trying to restart it. Certainly seems like it must be some sort of electrical issue. I can't imagine the starter would work once if the gear was incorrect. Tomorrow I'm taking the whole truck to the auto electric shop
I think you still need to consider the possibility that it could be an "engagement thing" Greg because, as I understand it the big high-current contacts inside the solenoid will never close (and provide the starter-motor-current to drive the little 9-tooth-cog) until the throw-out mechanism has completed its travel (to engage the cog with the flywheel teeth).
So as well as being caused by electrical issues, I believe the "just-clicks problem" could still be caused by
the cog being unable to slide easily/completely into mesh with the flywheel teeth.
Maybe the teeth on your flywheel are damaged?
But I was suspicious of the 9-tooth-drive-cog because you say it was replaced and that other thread suggests the only way to get them these days is use cogs off other starters that may have been designed for other engines and that therefore may have slightly different cog-measurement-specifications.
Maybe you can have the starter mounted on your engine without the solenoid in place to check if you can pull the end of this little lever (circled in red) easily with your fingers to engage the cog with the ring-gear?
I'm thinking this might be a way to check if it is hitting something and not easily able to complete its travel reliably?
