BJ40 handbrake nightmare. help please (2 Viewers)

[corglass]

Folks,

I just brought my truck for it's first extended drive today after it's restoration. After about 5 minutes I heard a bang below the handbrake followed by a clicking noise. It seems I snapped the handbrake cable connection at the transfer handbrake assembly.

On inspection, it seems that the rear plate where the handbrake cable connects is free to rotate with the rear driveshaft.

i.e. When A and B both rotate together when the truck is driving, meaning C just snapped off. :whoops: I rebuilt the handbrake myself and was confident that I left everything bolted up correctly. Has anyone experienced anything similar?

It's a pig of a job to undo the driveshaft and disconnect the handbrake cable. I'll also need to source a new cable.... I think this (46410-60013) is what I need?

 

[brownbear]

This would be better in the 40 series section. Want it moved? I can do that.

 

[corglass]

yes, please move.

corglass

 

[lostmarbles]

Sorry for the horrible image, but you need to find out what's happened to these four bolts:





PS. The cable part number is correct for a 7901-8007 BJ40 right-hand-drive

 

[brownbear]

There will be a re-direct here too for a month.

 

[Josie'sLandCruiser]

Hi all,

Sounds like you drove with the p-brake engaged, and/or the p-brake shoes were not adjusted correctly. It would seem that the 4 bolts that hold the p-brake backing plate in place have snapped-off.

Yes, it is a bit of a PITA to access the p-brake drum, but I don't see any way around tearing into it.

Measure the p-brake cable after you remove it and let me know the length, I might have a replacement for you.

Regards,

Alan

Folks,

I just brought my truck for it's first extended drive today after it's restoration. After about 5 minutes I heard a bang below the handbrake followed by a clicking noise. It seems I snapped the handbrake cable connection at the transfer handbrake assembly.

On inspection, it seems that the rear plate where the handbrake cable connects is free to rotate with the rear driveshaft.

i.e. When A and B both rotate together when the truck is driving, meaning C just snapped off. :whoops: I rebuilt the handbrake myself and was confident that I left everything bolted up correctly. Has anyone experienced anything similar?

It's a pig of a job to undo the driveshaft and disconnect the handbrake cable. I'll also need to source a new cable.... I think this (46410-60013) is what I need?

 

[corglass]

Thanks guys for all the useful comments. I'll be back with the cruiser at the weekend and will update you guys then

 

[corglass]

Update

As promised, I investigated the handbrake failure earlier today.

Lost marbles suggested I investigate what happened to the backing plate mounting bolts. Well as it turns out, they all sheared off!

I remove the rear drive shalf (PITA!) and then removed the handbrake cover. Here's what I found.

The mounting bolts all sheared off and left me with the fine mess of trying to remove the shared studs. (as you can see, it's not going to be easy.... Anyone got any tips or ideas that don't involve removing the rear assembly off the transfer case?

Finally, and most bizarrely, I noticed that the handbrake drum was scored very very badly (forgot to take photo but the sketch below indicates where the scoring was....)

So it 'appears' that may handbrake jammed (while I was driving in L-4x4). The engine continued to provide power and simply sheared the backing plate bolts. Once sheared, the plate was free to rotate and resulted in the handbrake cable snapping.

It all seems very bizarre, not lease because I can't explain the scoring on the drum. I can take a pic of the scoring now if it helps anyone diagnose the problem? Just a little walk out to the shed...

The current plan is to replace the entire handbrake assembly with parts from my doner truck, remove the sheared studs and replace them with new M8 ones. I'm kinda reluctant to do this without understanding why things failed. If things fail again I'll have no doner parts and no possibility of driving. Any comments greatly appreciated.

Corglass

 

[lostmarbles]

Accurately centre-punch what's left of the bolts and drill them.

Start with a smaller drills and work up to the largest you can use without breaking through into the aluminium female threads.

And take extreme care with the centre-ing, with drilling the holes TRUE, and with avoiding drill-breakage.

Preferably use anticlockwise-spinning drill bits so that when the remnants of the bolts break their grip ... they simply screw themselves out. (But I can't find any for sale in New Zealand so you may have similar troubles.. In which case use ordinary drills and then use quality "easy-outs".

Were those "cheap junk bolts" you used perhaps?

 

[corglass]

no, those were the original toyota bolts.

I think I'll manage to remove them alright lostmarbles, thanks for the tips though.

Any idea what cased the excessive scoring though?

 

[bj40green]

As promised, I investigated the handbrake failure earlier today.

Lost marbles suggested I investigate what happened to the backing plate mounting bolts. Well as it turns out, they all sheared off!

I remove the rear drive shalf (PITA!) and then removed the handbrake cover. Here's what I found.

The mounting bolts all sheared off and left me with the fine mess of trying to remove the shared studs. (as you can see, it's not going to be easy.... Anyone got any tips or ideas that don't involve removing the rear assembly off the transfer case?

Finally, and most bizarrely, I noticed that the handbrake drum was scored very very badly (forgot to take photo but the sketch below indicates where the scoring was....)

So it 'appears' that may handbrake jammed (while I was driving in L-4x4). The engine continued to provide power and simply sheared the backing plate bolts. Once sheared, the plate was free to rotate and resulted in the handbrake cable snapping.

It all seems very bizarre, not lease because I can't explain the scoring on the drum. I can take a pic of the scoring now if it helps anyone diagnose the problem? Just a little walk out to the shed...

The current plan is to replace the entire handbrake assembly with parts from my doner truck, remove the sheared studs and replace them with new M8 ones. I'm kinda reluctant to do this without understanding why things failed. If things fail again I'll have no doner parts and no possibility of driving. Any comments greatly appreciated.

Corglass

You already answered your own question
----I can't explain the scoring on the drum........
----Once sheared, the plate was free to rotate......

That backing plate was flying around and did the scouring on the drum.

Rudi

 

[kiwidog]

bolts

H bj,

The sheared bolts will probably tap out with a centre punch unless they were put in with thread lock. Tap the top side of each sheared bolt anticlockwise and they may come out. Now that the load is off the thread they will probably be loose in the output housing. If you have to drill them, take the output housing off the back of the TC and use a drill press. You will have more success keeping the hole centred in the broken bolt stub.

I would suspect that the bolts weren't tightened sufficiently or they were the wrong grade. They should have a number 6 or 7 on the head. They were probably # 4 bolts which belong in the low stress cover positions.

Thanks jb.

 

[crashn]

2 X Kiwidog, Usually works for me

 

[corglass]

progress! I replaced the entire handbrake assembly from my doner truck and replaced my driveshaft. All ist back together now and working fine. Kinda cheated by not exploring the cause of the original problem, but all worked well in the end.

Oh, and I removed the sheared studs by first drilling a 3.5mm pilot hole in each stud. I then hammered in a 4mm hex head bit and used a hex screwdriver to simply rotate it out. It was very easy in the end.

 

[Josie'sLandCruiser]

Hi all,

Corglass, glad to hear that you were able to get everything sorta out and fixed.

Don't feel too bad about the break/damage - I did nearly the same thing about ten years ago!

BTW - where are you at?

Regards,

Alan