I have a 1978 BJ40 and I think it needs a new starter. Would it be the same part as and 1978 FJ40? It also needs to some work on the clutch. What's a good source for BJ40 parts in general.
I have a 1978 BJ40 and I think it needs a new starter. Would it be the same part as and 1978 FJ40? It also needs to some work on the clutch. What's a good source for BJ40 parts in general.
If it's completely destroyed, you may need to buy a 2nd-hand one (say, from a wrecker in Australia). But they can be repaired and you can transplant your existing "starter nose-cone" onto starters from various vehicles (eg. Prado, minitruck, providfed you get the correct kilowatt rating) to convert them to the correct fastener size/position/orientation and correct cog tooth-count for your 1978 2977cc B engine.
Body parts, axle parts etc are the same as an FJ40 of the same year.
Engine parts (such as cylinder liners, pistons, precups, gasket sets)... Try Aussi sources such as Roodogs or Engine Australia
etc
PS. A company such as Exedy should have clutch plates and pressure plates but I don't know what's wrong with your clutch to say more about that...
Thanks for this - I will try to find someone to rebuild it. Hopefully I can find someone here locally - It starts to turn the motor for a second, then it goes into "whine mode". After about 20 trys, the old gal will fire up.
It looks like the PO has fitted a pyro (to measure and display exhaust gas temperature) which is unusual in that it's most often done only when a turbo has been added and I don't see one there.
And I wonder what that thing is that I see mounted on your firewall? The big cables to/from it make me think that maybe it is a battery isolator switch.
And I guess the big cannister is an extra large radiator overflow/reservoir bottle?
And it looks likes the PO has added a petrol-type fuel pre-filter. Be aware that your fuel pump needs to suck to lift fuel out of your tank (especially if your tank level is low) so any tiny leak upstream of your fuel pump will tend to suck in air. This wouldn't represent a problem with a petrol engine (because the fuel pump would probably still deliver enough fuel to maintain the correct float level in your carburettor) but with your diesel engine, a tiny volume of air entering will easily stop your injection pump from delivering fuel. (And overnight, a pinhole leak in your fuel line anywhere between your fuel pump and tank pickup can cause the whole line to fill with air that'll be delivered to your IP when you crank your engine over next morning.) For this reason, I personally prefer to avoid having unecessary connections/unions and devices like that in my fuel line..
Yes, there are some modifications compared to an original "CR" Cruiser.
Because of the Power Steering they had to move the battery but now the Radiator overflow tank had to be relocated. You're missing a part of the air intake
Your washer tank is not OEM but a very nice replacement I must say.
Your Master Break cylinder is a 1 pot model. No problem with that but when you have a brake problem caused by an internal leak between the front and the rear section you'll never find it. You'll be pumping the brake fluid round and round. Keep this in mind.
I have the same transparent extra fuel filter and here is why
I always have a spare in my toolbox.
Do I see a leftover from a snorkel and/or was that the reason to modify the washer tank?
Nice clean Cruiser. I wish I could keep mine that clean.