BJ 42 Landcruiser EDic Problem

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Joined
Aug 30, 2007
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Still having problems with the EDic Shutoff anyone
who knows this system on a 3B in a Bj42 that I could speak with on the phone would be very gratefull. 24 Volt Electrical systems are not my strong suit and I dont want to F@#^ up the thing anymore
508-627-8941
Thanks Tom
PS what does the Fuse marked Engine in the fuse panel control?
:confused:
 
what is it doing? be specific.

switches on, but not off?

does it work at all?

does it go into over-injection?

does it go into the run position?

I know these systems quite well, but it's impossible to diagnose from a distance without very specific information on what it is and is not doing.

~John
 
Is it getting power at all? If it is, perhaps it's the edic unit that has gone out. I also had a friend that had the same problem and it just turned out to be a loose/corroded connection. If it's not getting power, your rig may be similar to mine ('81 bj42) which has a relay under the dash - check that.

If the system is shot, you can not figure it out, or just do not want to deal with it, you can always disconnect it from the injection pump and replace it with a manual control (such as a choke cable). The edic only has three positions: start, running, and off.
 
Hello,
If you go to to my link in diesel classified, you will find I have a box of 24V diesel BJ42 parts,EDIC control, relay for EDIC, and all the other 24V relays for the truck. If you priced these from the dealer or Specter, you would poo your pants. Here is your opportunity to get a supply of electrical spares for the price of one unit alone. Alt, V-reg, starter and all the control relays for a 24V BJ42. I am gonna put this on eBay soon your chance for cheap parts is gonna go away soon.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=175580
Ola
eric
 
Common EDIC problems are, for example:

poor/cracked connections in the EDIC control box (to the right of the glove box, under the dash on an LHD), a broken fusible link at the battery, dirty or corroded connections in the various EDIC plugs, a bad ignition switch, damaged contacts inside the EDIC motor housing (they can sometimes be repaired/cleaned, and a few other things.


In diagnosing an EDIC I would start at the battery and carefully test the fusible links.

Next, use a manual to check the motor continuity at the plug (can tell you about motor internal problems with the contacts and timing disc).

Then, test the EDIC motor to see if it will spin.

Then, take a look at the grounds and plugs (there are several plugs in the system - though they are rarely the problem).

Next, take the EDIC control box out and open it up. I have, on several occasions, found a broken circuit or bad solder joint in the box. Make any repairs and re-test it.

hth, it's a great system when it's working properly.
 
UpsideDown wrote:
>>Next, use a manual to check the motor continuity at the plug (can tell you about >>motor internal problems with the contacts and timing disc).

>>Then, test the EDIC motor to see if it will spin.

I have to fix my EDIC so this is exactly the list I am looking for-Thanks. These two point need some clarification for me. Use a manual (which manual?) to check the motor continuity at the plug (which plug?)

Engine continuity being ground?

I've found the control box but where is the EDIC motor?

My EDIC clicks immediately after startup and kills the motor within 10 seconds. The oil gauge is rising the whole time. It is an 84 3B with about 216km on her. I suspect a corroded connection but would prefer a systematic approach like this.

Thanks
D
 

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