Birfield assembly (1 Viewer)

[RavenTai]

sorry to spam the board but searching is not getting me far today, I am was getting ready to assembly the birfs and ran into another problem

the manual describes in inner race as having a protruding end that goes inboard and has a figure that looks like the birf overhaul pic here:

mine looks different

we will call this the big end:

and the small end:

why is mine different? is this not a Toyota birf? or did Toyota change their design and more importantly witch way do I assemble it? both ends have recesses that look like they could hold the clip the big end looks like it would hold it more securely, right now I am thinking that the big end goes outboard

on another note the holes in my cage are all the same size and the flanges are the same width, it has a big opening and a small opening from the pic in the FSM I assume the small opening goes inboard

 

[RavenTai]

well I fooled around with it for a wile, and it looks like it is idiot proof (hopefully)

with the little end inboard it binds and I cannot get past the first ball, with the big end inboard it feels right and can be assembled

the cage is symmetrical except for one end is milled to allow the inner race to be installed the outer dimensions of the cage are the same either way, I put the relieved part outboard

so basically the exact opposite of my guess above

I would still like to know if this is a Toyota redesign or an after market birf, they looked very good for 100K birfs only a slight wear pattern not the deep grooves I had seen in other birfs, but there is no indication in the knuckle that it had broken one, if they were replaced it was before it blew, PO annoyed by clicking?

 

[Beowulf]

Raventai,

>> I would still like to know if this is a Toyota redesign
>> or an after market birf,

I have posted details here on IH8MUD on this topic before and I asked the same question that you did. Robbie told me the drawings in the FSM are the same drawings they have used since forever... even the same as the mini truck birfield. All 80's have a redesigned birfield and the FSM drawings and instructions do not match the part.

I cannot recall the exact details and I made notes in my FSM but it is 1,000 miles away right now. Basically, the joint only assembles correctly one way. It can be assembled the other way (ask me how I know...) but it won't feel right as you noticed.

-B-

 

[RavenTai]

Thank you

 

[robbie]

What you are calling the big end should look at you when you are assembling it. Looking at the center (splined) you see the slight taper to help you install the axle. The small end allow the snap ring to seat in the inner race. As for the cage. the slight taper stares at when you assemble it. The wider/ thicker goes into the bowl. hope this helps. It can go both way if the joint is loose so watch out. later robbie

 

[RavenTai]

[quote author=robbie link=board=2;threadid=13479;start=msg125084#msg125084 date=1079972221]
What you are calling the big end should look at you when you are assembling it. Looking at the center (splined) you see the slight taper to help you install the axle. The small end allow the snap ring to seat in the inner race.
[/quote]

Robbie thanks for the clarification, I did install the “big end” of the inner race towards me when assembling, or inboard as it would sit in the truck

As for the cage. the slight taper stares at when you assemble it. The wider/ thicker goes into the bowl. hope this helps. It can go both way if the joint is loose so watch out. later robbie

but think I have the cage opposite if I am reading you right, as far as I could tell the outside of the cage is symmetrical but I don't have the right equipment/skills at the house to measure curved surfaces accurately, only difference I could see was on one of the 2 faces** the inner opening was lathed larger to allow the inner race to clear for assembly I put this end in the bowl first sounds like the thicker un-milled end should have went in. Am I reading that right? Are there other distinguishing features?

**note: face as in if you laid the cage flat on a desk the faces would be up or down, or in other words the inboard and outboard sides as it sits in the truck. Or the two non curved sides with very large openings


my care package was either missing axle clips or I lost them so I am still at a good spot to go back in and fix wile I wait for clips to arrive all I will loose is a little grease

do either of you guys have any tips for searching for that previous thread about this?

 

[robbie]

Yes the thinner tapered edge of the cage should look at you as you assemble the birf. This hold true for Stock toyota Birfiled but may not hold true for rebuilt ones from a CV rebuilder or some aftermarket ones. I will try to have christo take a picture of a stock one (new) so you can have the reference. later robbie

 

[RavenTai]

[quote author=robbie link=board=2;threadid=13479;start=msg125398#msg125398 date=1080007635]
Yes the thinner tapered edge of the cage should look at you as you assemble the birf. This hold true for Stock toyota Birfiled but may not hold true for rebuilt ones from a CV rebuilder or some aftermarket ones. I will try to have christo take a picture of a stock one (new) so you can have the reference. later robbie
[/quote]

that woudl be great

 

[landtoy80]

I wounder if my Newfields are in wrong. I called CVun when I took them apart to clean before I installed them and they told me how to install the race.
But with the click/grind noise when truning sharp (occassionally) and all the time when the front diff locked and turning sharp (in snow).

I will pull the Newfield soon to see if any wear is on the race.
Anyone know how the inner race should be on a Newfield?

 

[RavenTai]

a newfield is a heat treated oem birf right? I would think it would be the same unless they use a diffrent cage or mill out the birf diffrently

 

[landtoy80]

I think the Newfield is made by CVunlimited.

 

[RavenTai]

I see, Ok I have no idea

 

[robbie]

I really do not know where the newfield is made (they will not tell), but it is not a heat treated toyota joint. I can not remember which way they go except I do remember that they are different then OEM. I also think they stink and will leave you stranded unless you carry a spare. I would bet that if you got back into them you would find metal flakes in the tulip with the grease and the cage and starting to break up. good luck.
The first picture shows the inner star and cage backwards. I just saw that this morning. It looks like you rotated it backwards before the pictures. later robbie

 

[sleeoffroad]

Pictrure of assembled birfield.

 

[e9999]

oooooooh!
purty!
E

 

[RavenTai]

Thanks Christo, yep I got my cage backwards,I can see the relief cut facing toward the assembler, my inner race is in correct

Robbie the first picture is not mine it is from a birf rebuild tutorial, I snagged it because the inner race matched the diagram in the FSM but my birf did not, at first I thought I had an odd ball birf but apparently mine is the new style and the manual is wrong

 

[landtoy80]

Christo, you got a pic of a Newfield?
I wounder if mine is in right???

 

[RavenTai]

repost of assemblemd birf

 

[Dusty]

i dont give up easy but tonight a birf kicked my ass. I baught a used birf that has a race that fits roughly in cage (it tends to shift and bind slightly). when the race and cage are placed in the birfield cup (as shown in the pic posted above) I can not get 2 balls to oppose each other. in other words I can get balls 1 and 3 into position but it is impossible to get balls 1 and 4 in (they oppose). I also find it impossible to get in balls 1, 3,5 (a star). I assume this is because the race and cage are not a good fit. can anyone help me. I am sad

Dusty

 

[RavenTai]

are you sure you have the larger opening of the cage facing you?

got the star the right way?

mine bound when I had the star in backwards. but it sounds liek you are past that,

does it look damaged?