Bib reinforcement (1 Viewer)

[archie73]

When I did my last frame-off(ish), I chose to use a fiberglass bib I had on hand rather doing the necessary rust repairs to the stock unit. My rust issue is nothing compared to others I’ve seen on this forum

This is the only spot where the rust made it through the metal and could considered a small repair. It didn’t show itself until after I had the body soda blasted. Nothing compared to the sandwiched area behind the brace. Certainly not worthy of a new thread, but we’re gonna get to that later.

So I did what any self-respecting hack does and broke out the drill and spot weld cutter. Don’t forget the one around the corner on the underside.

Next I broke out a chisel and hammer to convince the brace to leave my bib alone.

Don’t fret, the Swiss cheese impersonating the brace will not be reused. The material in between the brace and bib had the expected flakey rust that had the structure of a croissant. I’m getting hungry.

The good news is that the metal behind the brace is actually in pretty decent shape. The inside looks like the surface of the moon, but it’s solid. I’ll hit this with POR-15 after I hit it with a wire wheel.

 

[archie73]

I’ve seen several people talk of using various thicknesses of angle iron the replace the brace. I think this is an excellent idea. My drive may differ from others though. I recently munched a fender on a leisurely trip to the home of red rock wheeling.

It was worse before this pic, the metal is now compromised enough to pull it back out by hand a week after collar bone surgery. The brace under the fender is now oriented backwards. I think I need something stronger. Strongly considering buy a tube bender.

Holy side streams. What’s that got to do with the bib you ask? Well what’s the point of putting a stronger fender on if it’s just going to push into the bib. Now the OEM bib is stout, but I’m not sure how well it would resist stupidity.

There’s a couple ways to meet this need:

• Run a brace across the engine bay. Mine is already clutter with two batteries and a V8, so I’m no wild about it
• Add a radiator hoop and tie them together, thus creating exoskeleton type structure. Not for this truck, not my desire in this one.
• Create a stinger and tie it to the fenders. See above.

I’d like something a little more low key. So I’m think I’ll make a frame behind the bib to replace the old brace and tie it in where the stock fender bolts to the bib. It’ll have a 1” square tube in place like this-

It would tuck in nicely to existing structure and make for a fairly simple project (hahahahahaha). The function of supporting the hinge area will be met and then some. I have a thought on how to tie in an upper bar without cutting the bib, but I’m still figuring that out.

I tried searching, but I didn’t come up with anyone doing this concept. I’m still on the workshop phase, so I’d take any criticism or advice people have.

 

[rustED71]

I just went through this process last weekend on my bib, although rust repair wasn't my main motivation. My bib took a hit while being towed, and bent it pretty badly, so I removed the brace in hopes of being able to straighten it back out. Glad I did, because I found quite a bit of rust as well. Nice write up, look forward to seeing your new frame/brace, I was thinking along these lines too.

 

[snaggletto]

I removed my brace to do rust repair. Never put anything back as it just collects rust. I have had no issues running the bib without the brace.

 

[archie73]

I removed my brace to do rust repair. Never put anything back as it just collects rust. I have had no issues running the bib without the brace.

I believe it. In keeping with the rest of an LC, it’s over built.

 

[archie73]

I just went through this process last weekend on my bib, although rust repair wasn't my main motivation. My bib took a hit while being towed, and bent it pretty badly, so I removed the brace in hopes of being able to straighten it back out. Glad I did, because I found quite a bit of rust as well. Nice write up, look forward to seeing your new frame/brace, I was thinking along these lines too.

Out of curiosity, was it just the brace that was rusty? That seem to be the case with mine. I have pitting on the bib, but most of the flake was on the brace.

What were your thoughts on strengthening the bib? I’m open to all thoughts currently.

 

[RevISK]

I removed my brace to do rust repair. Never put anything back as it just collects rust. I have had no issues running the bib without the brace.

Me too

 

[rustED71]

archie74 said:
"Out of curiosity, was it just the brace that was rusty? That seem to be the case with mine. I have pitting on the bib, but most of the flake was on the brace.

What were your thoughts on strengthening the bib? I’m open to all thoughts currently."

Mine was the same, most of the heavy flakey rust was on the brace, There is some pitting on the bib, but no rust holes or Swiss cheese. I don't plan on using the brace as it is bent and was making it more difficult for me to straighten out my bib. Mine has a pretty good twist in it, it doesn't lay flat when it's on a level surface, I'm hoping I can use a hammer and dolly and maybe my torch to get it straighten out. Worst case I might have to cut it a part and hammer it out and then weld it back together lol. I like the idea of the 1" square tube frame you were talking about, I'm thinking of going the same route to help keep mine straight.

 

[archie73]

Before I start thinking about the brace I need to address the one spot of Swiss cheese on the bib itself. Fortunately, it’s a pretty small area.

Don’t worry about the holes in the recessed area, those are for the lights (not stock). No focus on the ugly area to the right. Since I was at it, I cut out the heavily pitted metal that was behind the offending brace as well. I did my best to replicate the trick where you clamp the patch metal over the affected area and cut them both at the same time. This gives a patch that leaves a nice welding gap.

These little HF clamps have been a great investment. They really are worth it. The other trick I used was the copper backing plate. I put it on the visible side and tacked away on the backside. Moving around to not concentrate the heat and cause warping.

I tried to gently grind the front side and it looks pretty good for a hack like me. I’m going to try and fill the frontside with welds. I want to try the little die grinder discs for the finish work, so I’ll need to order some of those. My last attempt at patch repairs, I over heated metal using a 4” grinder. Hopefully, this will help this out.

Next will be the backside. The welds are lumpy but they don’t need to be perfect, just good enough to lay the new bracing over.
I wire wheeled the pitted area on the backside as well. Once the welding is done, it’ll be ready for POR-15. Then I finished cutting the spot welds out. I was trying to avoid doing this, but the nubs that were left behind would have been more difficult to remove then they were worth. These holes will allow me to rosette weld the brace in, so the additional holes will work out fine.