Best Rust Prevention (1 Viewer)

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Hmmm. My Volvo spent a few years back east with the PO, and he had it Ziebarted several times. Looks like nice protection, but I see your point about H2O getting under it... silent rust.

After doing a little wheeling yesterday, i think I am going to spray the wheel wells with some asphalt undercoating... for stone chip protection. Think i might do this along the seams underneath the rocker pannels as well.
 
Red Herring said:
Hmmm. My Volvo spent a few years back east with the PO, and he had it Ziebarted several times. Looks like nice protection, but I see your point about H2O getting under it... silent rust.

After doing a little wheeling yesterday, i think I am going to spray the wheel wells with some asphalt undercoating... for stone chip protection. Think i might do this along the seams underneath the rocker pannels as well.
Click to expand...

Ashphalt is the worst as it gets hard and brittle eventually allowing water to creep in behind it.

You want something that will stay rubbery, I clean the wheel wells to the paint, scuff and spray in rock guard, comes in black, white and is paintable.


More durable and does act somewhat as a sound deadener.
 
That sounds good. Thanks RC. Wonder if you could get that sprayed all up underneath? That would be perfect.
 
Radd Cruisers said:
Ashphalt is the worst as it gets hard and brittle eventually allowing water to creep in behind it.
Click to expand...

Yup. If it's been on very long, scrape it off and you will most assuredly find rusted metal underneath.
 
I just started pulling apart my 60. All the places that I used Fluid Film on have a nice oily coating and no rust. I think oily is good and a solid spray on like asphalt is no good because it can hold moisture behind it. I'm trying to come up with the best option because I'm importing a rust free US truck and I want to keep it that way.
I was wondering whether it would be worth taking it to somewhere like Ziebart and having it all done? Here in B.C. it seems like our biggest problem is rust and I'm surprised that I only have to go to Washinton or Oregon to find rust free trucks. I assumed I'd have to look in Arizona or New Mexico to find one without rust. Is it just the salt we're using on our roads? I know from talking to a few Oregonians that they don't use salt. Why do we need to use salt on the roads in BC?? pete
 
Hi All:

You can get a waxy/oily anti-rust coating from the "Eastwood Company" here in the States. I have been coating the underside of the "new" body tub of my FJ40 with the stuff, applying it to all those areas that the old body tub had rotted-out. Leaves a thickish, flexible coat once dry.

HTH.

Regards,

Alan
Seattle
 
We know rust in the east b/c of the extreme amounts of salt used and the frequent freeze-melt cycles.

My BJ70 was fixed 6 years ago; lower rear quarters and some touch ups here and there. I will have to get it fixed again this year, but it's not as bad looking as it was 6 years ago.

Here's what I do:

-I use Krown light oil spray in early February, before it starts to thaw (that's when the salt really begins to work). The oil is fresh during the thaw, then, when it gets warmer, the oil wicks into every nook and cranny. Krown does it; in Feb. there's hardly anyone going there so they take their time. Also, they're down to their full-time staff, so less chance of getting some rushed fill-in part-timer. On top of that, they can't stand to see so much salt on the truck, so you get a free car wash!

-in the fall, I get a non-drip heavy, sticky oil applied only as an undercoat. I don't like the non-drip applied within the body panels, especially before the cold weather, because I think it actually clogs some cracks, seams and drain holes allowing moisture to remain and go to work. The Krown remains inside those fine, narrow areas.

Keep the frame cleaned out and heavily goo-ed up. Don't allow any structural compromise anywhere, ever. Don't ever use anything that dries hard like the old Ziebart; it'll just trap moisture and accelerate rust.

Make sure there are no holes underneath. The typical spot is under the rear wheel wells at the very back. Holes there allow salty moist air to circulate up as far as the roof pan. This could be a major contributor to roof line and roof pillar rot.

There's so much goo under my truck in places, when welding underneath there's a risk of it catching fire. Seriously, you get to recognize when that glowing blob is just going to drip down on to your wrist.... believe me you learn how to move fast!

Cheers from sunny (finally) Ottawa.
 
yep, the great Ontario fall oil spray...
great for trucks, nasty for those that work on them...
 
lol, ya you should see what Krown does on a flat metal surface with a puddle of water on it, it actually separtes the water and gets under it to protect the metal, I must say other than dripping on your driveway it is the best oiling you can get.

As for aspahlt I agree with the people saying water will get behind it, but if there is stuff you can get at CT and TSC that stays almost wets and rubbery but is black like tar that works wonders, a little sand and spray and rust won't come back, well untill the salt bath at least.

A friend of mine and I got talking last night and a local body shop was telling him about a bed liner sprayer you can order fron the US that heats the bed liner goop and sprays the thick stuff on, he says it is the stongest bed liner ever, you can hit it with a chisel and hammer and won't chip it, the only way to get it off is to grind it, and when you do that it sparks like you are grinding metal. He said you can get it in any color and you can get a smooth finish out of it. I said man I wanna coat my hole BJ in that s***.
 
hummm, not to sure if that reply was for the last part of my message or not, think about this crusher, if your paint can't chip then rust can't start, all you do is either spray the stuff in your doors etc or oil the crap out of them and I honesly couldn't think of a more rust proof finish. It would be 100 time better than Line X or anything.

The stuff is so tank it sparks when you grind away at it, I dunno, it definitaly weigh's alot but it is worth it.

I think it would prevent dents too.

cheers
Eric
 
Any other tips here? I applied fluid film all through the frame rails, rear shock tube, inside the outer front fenders, inside the doors, tailgate, rear hatch and rocker panels. Was thinking up in the pillars where the rear vents are might be an idea? How about getting up in the roof somehow?

Don't want to drive my rust free cali truck until I have it coated as best I can :)
 
there is a seam overlay just inside the rear doors that you need to do, bottom of the windshield frame
A pillar
B pillar
crawl under and look up and anywhere the rust can start then spray...
 
I am ripping into my transfer case in January and I have the undercoating gun already from a buddy.
I will be using a proform waxy spray. I tried to do it one night but I currently don't have the space to let the truck dry out completely. I'll give it a uber good washing then just coat the living hell out of it to hopefully do it pretty good for a while.
 
crushers said:
there is a seam overlay just inside the rear doors that you need to do, bottom of the windshield frame
A pillar
B pillar
crawl under and look up and anywhere the rust can start then spray...
Click to expand...

where is the best spot to get access to these pockets?
 
if you open the back rear and look where the D pillar connects with the floor you will see some spot welds, it is this overlay that causes the issues.

the BEST way is to find a rusty 60 in your area and do a mental tally of all the rusted spots.

it is rusts there on it then it will rust there on yours...

another spot to look at is where the hood hinge pocket is located ..
bottom of the rad supports where the metal over laps ...
 
I have two rusty 60's in the driveway, my daily driver was so bad that when we took the suspension off the front to put on the FJ, the spring hanger actually moved sideways on the frame...

Anyways on that one the roof was rusty all the way around (moreso on the drivers side), but on the other rusty 60 zero rust on roof...Good call on the rad support (forgot I coated that), and the hood hinge area, I guess the wiper arm access area would not hurt either.
 
Probably from the previous owner, when we bought the 81 BJ60 almost ten years ago there was some slight rust on the drivers side roof where it slants towards the gutter.
The best part now is that I just moved into my first place and it has underground parking :)
 
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