My dreaded tick has returned after welding up on the crack failed on me. Called the local dealer and they want $430 for the driver's side. Anywhere on-line are they cheaper?
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$100 plus shipping. Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market
Run vin to see if they where replace under the TSB by Dealer, If older than 2002 IIRC. I've three 100 series and all where replaced by Dealer according to either Toyota or Lexus. Slee tells me they have never seen the replacements fail.
OEM manifolds are about $250 a pop from the online parts dealers. It's the labor for the driver side that will get ya. Passenger side is relatively straight forward.
As far as I've seen this issue was not fixed in 2002/2003. I have an '04 LC and it ticks like it's nobodies business. I just deal with it as it quiets down quite a bit after a few miles of driving.
I've thought about DT headers but I've read several posts about those cracking too and they are close to a grand for a pair. If / when I decide to repair I'll probably just go OEM and hope the replacement parts have some improvements.
Interesting.As far as I've seen this issue was not fixed in 2002/2003. I have an '04 LC and it ticks like it's nobodies business. I just deal with it as it quiets down quite a bit after a few miles of driving.
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I haven't heard of any failures on the recent production of DT' headers. We've all read early on there were some issue with welds but those were corrected ages ago-right?. In any case they are warrantied (limited lifetime warranty)- Toyota won't offer that. Yes you're out the labor to R&R.Have considered this, but I've seen that they too crack over time and don't want to do this a third time.
My sound is also on DS, but haven't isolated yet.Educated guess by visual inspection and process of elimination. I looked at all joints leading up to manifold and there were no leaks that I could pick up on. I also have taken a PVC pipe to get a targeted listen and I'm 95% sure manifold is cracked on driver side.
Ali gave me the idea of using air pressure to find exhaust leak. Julian suggested stuffing a rag in tail pipe. I've rework my smoke tester so I can get more pressure & smoke pushed upstream from tail pipe. I'll run it soon with just air then smoke along with rag test. I've just be waiting until I could do a couple of high RMP runs on Highway (low gear holding over 4,500 RPM). This is to burn off any residue left from last smoke test. Smoke test to identify exhaust leak (ticking sound)Smoke test like 2001 did a few weeks back, but run it in the exhaust (tail) pipe upstream- there should be a smoke signal coming from the leaking header.