Best oil for turbo 1FZ

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this is a good discussion! It seems that the diesel oils have more additives which is good, but the weights are higher. Is that not a concern? At least come winter time when it's zero out i would think that would be a concern?
 
Here is an interesting read about oil and zinc content from Forced Performance. The chart is handy and lists many oils with their zinc content.

http://store.forcedperformance.net/...Performance Recommendations for Motor Oil.pdf

I have always been a fan of 5W-40 Shell Rotella in my built Subaru engines but currently have have been using Motul 5W-40 in the truck. I would say Motul is better than Shell but cost is a little higher and it's harder to obtain for the average guy.
 
concretejungle said:
this is a good discussion! It seems that the diesel oils have more additives which is good, but the weights are higher. Is that not a concern? At least come winter time when it's zero out i would think that would be a concern?
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Toyota themselves recommends 20W-50 down to 19°F, and 15-40 down to 14°F. 10W-30 isn't recommended until you reach 0°F.

Good 20-50s are a much more limited selection, and actual viscosity isn't fully demonstrated by the rated weights, so my point is..... don't worry about 15W-40, even in winter.

Like anything in winter, just don't go rocketing off 5 seconds after you start it up.
 
Clint, I'm on the other side of OZ but deal with the same temp range and operating conditions as you more or less - especailly when doing Simpson Desert and other outback runs in harsh conditions. To this end, and under sound advice from a mate who is a chemical engineer, I use Gulf Western, Premuim ultra 15w50, and have sone so for some time.

I've used this oil in my last 2 CBR1000's and also my turbo Cruiser. I do the oil changes is my parent's cars and also use Protectra Ultra. All engines have run like a Swiss watch.


It's an Australian company based here in Penrith, Sydney and they manufacture their entire range here. They ships all over the country, mostly supplying mining and trucking companies with 30,000+ litres at a time. They dont have a big following in the domestic market as they dont need it due to their minimg and trucking company customers - people who take a great deal of care in ensuring they get the best protection for their engines for maximum life. Because of this, they do not have the need to pump huge money into advertising to increase their brand awareness. They bonus to us is much lower operating costs and therefore cheaper prices to the end use - you and me.

What ever you do, don't waste your money on full synthetics - the only true benefit of this type of oil is it's extended drain intervals - ie; 20,000km. Waste of money when we change it every 5000-7500km 'just to be sure'.
 
guzzla said:
What ever you do, don't waste your money on full synthetics - the only true benefit of this type of oil is it's extended drain intervals - ie; 20,000km. Waste of money when we change it every 5000-7500km 'just to be sure'.
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I thought one of the benefits of using fully synthetic oils was to combat coking in the turbo which can be a problem with dino oils.
 
Coking is really only an issue of turbos that operate on a brass bush rather than a bearing and are not water cooled. IIRC, Clint's turbo is off a XR6 Falcon so it's a bearing operated and water cooled turbo. Coking is a non issue.

Regardless, frequent oil change intervals eliminate coking all together in either application as the oil is replaced before the continual heat cycle, made worse with a turbo, destroys the additives in the oil sooner than in a NA engine. On that note, if someone doesn't service their turbo charged vehicle as often as they should, then a quality synthetic oil may be the better choice as the end product typically has less additives. Even then, for best results, you need to use a mono weight full synthetic oil.

Not sure what the price of synthetic oil is over your neck of the woods but it costs a fortune on this side of the world - about $20+/L!!! Adds up quickly at 7L each oil change.
 
You can do an oil analysis and watch the oxidation numbers. It's the best way to know if your oil is holding up.
 
Cruising through and saw this thread. For a turbo engine, I heartily recommend the use of synthetic oils over mineral. This is due to the extreme temperatures that the oil lubricated turbo bearings see (especially in oil cooled turbos). A good synthetic will resist coking much better than a mineral oil.

As far as the specific choice of synthetic, I still recommend Mobil 1, 0w-40 or 5w-40 Turbo Diesel (aka Delvac), as they are widely available and top quality oils. Redline and Motul make great oils, but I don't think the extra cost is justified. Shell Rotella 5w-40 synthetic when bought at a discount in the jug at walmart is a great value, but with price increases seems to be selling at the same price per quart in the jug as Mobil 1 now. Personally, I use Mobil 1 5w-40 as the truck burns a lot less of it.

The bottom line is you will not have a problem with any major brand synthetic. I continue to like the 40 weight oils as a the default choice. The lower zinc content in newer oils is not an issue for the LC trucks, as they do not use small block style in block cams with high ration rocker arms that create very high pressures on the cam lobes.
 
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