Best ignition upgrade for F engine?

[Pin_Head]

So you dont believe this modification is worth the hundred bucks or so?

In a word, no. Unless not adjusting the points every 5-10,000 miles means that much to you.

However, if I had an electronic distributor, I would keep it as long as it was good.

None of this matters as far as mileage and performance: Any good distributor will give the same performance in an average 2F.

If you think that a higher spark voltage gives better performance, you can try this for free. Just increase your plug gap. What you will find is that there is no difference up to the point that the voltage is so high that the insulation starts breaking down and the ignition becomes unreliable.

 

[Pighead]

Yes, but I may just be defending my purchase. I ran points in my '68 dizzy for years...had 'em come loose, break and burn. Dropped the pertronix in, maybe 10 years ago. Flawless performance, set and forget. It's probably paid for itself in points by now. And while I enjoy the aesthetic appeal of the early dizzy (love the octane adjuster), I have come to see the FJ60 setup as superior in function. But I'll continue to run the pertronix 'till the right 60 setup comes along.
It may be kinda like putting an Aussie locker in when you really wanted airlockers...

So you dont believe this modification is worth the hundred bucks or so?

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Points ignitions do work just fine. I've had points on various cars and Land Cruisers for 30 years now. They are simple, easily replaced, rarely have problems etc, etc. But...Electronic ignitions are much better. The reason is that there is no wear in the system; the points don't slip around and change dwell and timing, the point faces don't burn and pit, and they are far more resistant to moisture. I don't think I've had to change the timing on my FJ60 since I set it to spec when I first got it 6 years (and 50k) ago!

The only hesitation about running an old distributor/pertronics would be the shaft bushings. If they are worn, the dwell and timing will move around and vary with rotation despite the presence of an electronic ignition. The FJ60 distributor uses bearings, which rarely wear, but if they do, can be readily replaced. The FJ60 ignition also does away with the hokey hold down clamp of the older distributors.

Anyway, if you run the Pertronics, have someone check out your distributor for wear. If there is any hint of slop or movement of the shaft relative to the body, have someone rebuild it for you. I suspect Mark at Mark's Offroad could do that for you.

You can tell I like the FJ60 ignition package, but if cost is a major concern, stock or pertronics will be your best bet. Just be prepared to rebuild the distributor-wear of the shaft bushings is extremely common/universal.

 

[LandC1973]

As Cruiserdrew said points WILL wear and there are many options like MSD or pertronics. Who wants to put their tail between there legs and limp home with fouled points. The MSD system isn’t cheap but I have had the system on 6 different cars/trucks over a sum total of 40 years (between the cars), have swapped the MSD from one car to another, none have ever failed, and the timing computer with a 20deg retard at startup makes starting easy (plus no vacuum hose issues or mechanical advance).

 

[armourguard]

replace the engine side cover with the FJ60 side cover and send the dizzy to Jim C. to be re-curved for your engine but you get a nice all Toyota ignition system that you can get parts for. Total cost around $250 plus your time.

From a newbee but why do you or do you have to have the dizzy re-curved if going with the FJ60 dizzy

 

[brider]

Ditto on the "why do I have to re-curve", and what does that involve, anyway? I have a nice tight, clean FJ60 system ready to install, but now I'm wondering how it will perform if I DON'T have it "re-curved"?

BTW, I DID have Jim C. do my carb, I am convinced of his 'cruiser prowess.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Ditto on the "why do I have to re-curve", and what does that involve, anyway? I have a nice tight, clean FJ60 system ready to install, but now I'm wondering how it will perform if I DON'T have it "re-curved"?

BTW, I DID have Jim C. do my carb, I am convinced of his 'cruiser prowess.

I will run OK without recurving it, but it is set up for too much advance if you don't have EGR. Normally EGR cools combustion, so it will tolerate more advance. With no EGR in the picture, then you may get spark knock unless the distributer is curved properly.

Drop it in and see how it runs. If it knocks uphill at full throttle, it needs to be recurved. I had Jim do mine, and have been very pleased with how it runs. The distributer rebuild and recurve was pretty cheap-about $100 if I recall correctly.

 

[Coolerman]

The FJ60 runs a smogged 2F engine and the dizzy it uses is curved to suit this application.
You are going to put the dizzy from this truck into a non-smogged F engine with totally different specs.

I don't know the specifices of the different curves but was told for best performance at peak torque (1800-2200 rpm) to have it recurved.

Contact Jim C. at fj40jim@aol.com for more detailed information.

 

[Degnol]

The FJ60 runs a smogged 2F engine and the dizzy it uses is curved to suit this application.
You are going to put the dizzy from this truck into a non-smogged F engine with totally different specs.

I don't know the specifices of the different curves but was told for best performance at peak torque (1800-2200 rpm) to have it recurved.

Contact Jim C. at fj40jim@aol.com for more detailed information.

X2, he did mine and it runs like a top. I think it was about a hundy.

Ed