I need new brake pads on the front. Where is the best place to get them , and what is the best kind? Also, where can i get new anti rattle hardware? Is that a dealer only item?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Best front brake pads?
- Thread starter SC Joe
- Start date
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Best bang for the buck will be OEM through CDan
I'd say (you are going to find a wide variety of opinions on this) for stock rotors stick with OEM pads. I would try to clean up your existing anti-rattle plates (be sure to use the brake rotor lube/grease on the plates and pins)...or maybe once you price the new ones you will HAVE to clean them up 
.
FYI: With all the extra weight of my rig + 35" I decided to try the ART rotors (cryogenically treated) which were the only rotor/pad combo to completely remedy the notorious undersized Audi A6 rotors, and with the kevlar pads & ss lines it feels substantially better braking (better modulation and about 20% better peak brake power)...but that's a whole 'nuther topic...not to hyjack your thread
.FYI: With all the extra weight of my rig + 35" I decided to try the ART rotors (cryogenically treated) which were the only rotor/pad combo to completely remedy the notorious undersized Audi A6 rotors, and with the kevlar pads & ss lines it feels substantially better braking (better modulation and about 20% better peak brake power)...but that's a whole 'nuther topic...not to hyjack your thread
- Thread starter
- #4
Spressoman-
You lost me withe the Audi A6 rotor --those brand of rotors fixed this issue on your Audi? I think i understand the comparison now.
I think the anti rattle stuff is okay, except for the springs that go between the pads/over the rotor. It looks like somehow mine got bent too close to the rotor, and has almost ground all the way through it from rubbing the spinning rotor.
Also..How do i get in touch with Cdan?
You lost me withe the Audi A6 rotor --those brand of rotors fixed this issue on your Audi? I think i understand the comparison now.
I think the anti rattle stuff is okay, except for the springs that go between the pads/over the rotor. It looks like somehow mine got bent too close to the rotor, and has almost ground all the way through it from rubbing the spinning rotor.
Also..How do i get in touch with Cdan?
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C-DAN:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=17873
I agree. Stock rotor = stock pad. Nothing wrong with OEM.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=17873
I agree. Stock rotor = stock pad. Nothing wrong with OEM.
SC Joe said:
Sorry about that...but basically if the ART's will fix the Audi A6 issue they will fix anything...sorry for the confusion. FYI the plate kit runs about $40.00 msrp PER WHEEL! But if you need them at least they are available from Toyota.
The brakes on the 100 are so spectacular that I'd not try any aftermarket items. Call me conservative?
- Thread starter
- #8
ShottsUZJ100 said:
Hey I'd go with that. I have no problem with OEM stuff. I just bough the vehicle, but I understand these are the original pads. 96K miles..is that about right, or even possible? The rears have been replaced however.
SC Joe said:
By 96K I was on my 4th set. Though my 100 is very heavy, has 35's, I drive it crazy and wheel it hard.
Based upon feedback from a variety of people you will go through the rears faster than the fronts. My front pads were replaced at around 84k or so for the first time.
Rears are ready for 2nd replacement at 94k.
Rears are ready for 2nd replacement at 94k.
calamaridog said:
WHAT! Are you telling me that mine wear super fast due to the weight, driving style and big tires? My god! At 100K I put on new rotors cuz we couldn't turn them a 3rd time. Geeze...that's a HUGE wear difference.
- Thread starter
- #12
I haven't even looked at a service manual, but to pull the rotors off to get them turned, do I have to unbolt the wheel bearings and replace the seals, then reapck the bearings, or can I just remove the rotor? I really like a 2 piece hub/rotor design, but just from barely looking at the 100, it doesn't look like thats the case here.
Edit: I went out at lunch to the toyota dealer and bought a set of front pads and anti rattle springs (3.00 each) for $67.xx total. I didn't think that was too bad.
Edit: I went out at lunch to the toyota dealer and bought a set of front pads and anti rattle springs (3.00 each) for $67.xx total. I didn't think that was too bad.
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Pskhaat
Tourer
If you don't have any issues with your brakes currently, why turn the rotors if all you need is new pads?
- Thread starter
- #14
Pskhaat said:
I do have some vibration when using the brakes.
SC Joe said:
Yes the hubs need to come off to remove the rotor. FWIW...countless threads on this subject...don't waste time to turn the rotors...just put new ones on. Or if you want the pair off my rig you are welcome to them...
LXPearl said:
TRD pads are made by Performance Friction. I used the Performance Friction pads on my Tacoma and they stopped better than the OEM.
The OEM pads and rotors on these vehicles, however, are very good.
ShottsUZJ100 said:
Yea but mine was a soccer mom mobile for the first 80k. Now I abuse it regularly.
- Thread starter
- #19
Ok..TRIED to do the brakes today.
The pads were SHOT..so I just changed them. I didn't want to drive 2 more miles with what was in there. Couldn't get the hub off. Couldn't get the cone washers out. Didn't have a 54mm socket anyway(couldn't find one!). Also need new guide pins for the pads. Mine had pretty good sized worn areas. I sand ed those smooth the best I could, but they will need replacing as well.
Guess I'll be going back for round two after I get some more stuff.
The pads were SHOT..so I just changed them. I didn't want to drive 2 more miles with what was in there. Couldn't get the hub off. Couldn't get the cone washers out. Didn't have a 54mm socket anyway(couldn't find one!). Also need new guide pins for the pads. Mine had pretty good sized worn areas. I sand ed those smooth the best I could, but they will need replacing as well.
Guess I'll be going back for round two after I get some more stuff.
