Best drywall anchor ever

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Adventure Copan said:
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If I'm not to late to chime in these are my faves for no studs. :D

-Daniel Kent
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The "Toggle Locks" are the best ones out of all the ones that rely on the drywall to hold but as others already mentioned any of these types rely on the strength of the drywall to hold together.

The reason the Toggle Lock is even a bit better than the other plastic and metal tapered screw types is that with that lock the solid area along the backside of the drywall where it has intact gypsum, intact paper (or fiberglass or etc with green board, blue board, etc) is much stronger than the raw, rough and already "eroding" gypsum you drilled through or screwed through.

If you are careful you can even reuse these by taking the screw out, rotating it so the lock then retracts into the housing and pullout again. I've had every other type of anchor (except that Hilti I have never had chance to use) fail except for the toggle lock and then when I was trying to make one of them fail forcefully it literally took a baseball sized chunk of drywall out with it! :beer:
 
watch out for pipes and wires......
 
Some funny comments on a good thread!

If I can summarize - titanpat, you are correct in providing a guarantee that correctly installed that particular anchor you mention won't fail, as won't quite a number of other good ones.

More importantly, though, is that, eventually, the SHEETROCK will fail. So those anvils stored on the shelf will, at some least opportune moment, pull a Wile E Coyote on you. Right along with the non-failing anchor, still grasping to that bung of sheetrock torn loose from the rest of the wall.

Wish I could draw the cartoon.....:whoops:
 
Better move my Anvil then! :D

-Daniel Kent
 
itbrokeagain said:
I have gone on several service calls to repair the plumbing stack that has screw holes all over it.

I like the plastic threaded anchors as well
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I personally (sadly) screwed into my plumbing in my own wall, but I did at least fix it myself too. :D

-Daniel Kent
 
The plastic threaded ones are the best hands down. I have been a carpenter for 12 yrs. and have used tons of them. they can hold A LOT of weight. When I install kitchens and the cabinets might not have two seperate vertical studs to screw into we will use two of plastic zips for that cabinet along with 2 more screws that are on a stud. They make 2 sizes. The big ones work best. small ones are good for bathroom towel bars, tp holders, etc.
 
we will use two of plastic zips for that cabinet along with 2 more screws that are on a stud. They make 2 sizes. The big ones work best. small ones are good for bathroom towel bars, tp holders, etc.
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an alert framer will ensure there is proper blocking in place to screw into in order that you have a secure location for your cabinets. If not ... if it were my place - I think I would cut the drywall out to install blocking rather than risk the cabinets sagging. Just so many reasons and places where blocking is critical and separates a good job from a poor, or unsafe, situation ...cabinets, shower tub grab bars, stair rails, fire blocks, cast iron rads etc etc
 
I agree on the blocking but when a kitchen install is subed out to you sometimes you just dont have a choice but on the other hand if your installing a run of uppers in the end they are all secured together through the face frame I dont think there are going to be sagging issues IMO. Also adding a bit of contruction adhesive to anything you use a wall ancor for is extra insurance.
AJP said:
an alert framer will ensure there is proper blocking in place to screw into in order that you have a secure location for your cabinets. If not ... if it were my place - I think I would cut the drywall out to install blocking rather than risk the cabinets sagging. Just so many reasons and places where blocking is critical and separates a good job from a poor, or unsafe, situation ...cabinets, shower tub grab bars, stair rails, fire blocks, cast iron rads etc etc
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if your installing a run of uppers in the end they are all secured together through the face frame I dont think there are going to be sagging issues
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... unfortunately ... as I have personally experienced .. this is not always true.

The uppers in our house looked fine when we purchased (was about 12 years old home at the time) .. but after we moved in I discovered that all the upper doors had been rehung to give a even "bottom line" in order to disguise the fact that the cupboards were sagging ... the trim at the ceiling hid the gap. Installers had missed studs on half the screws .. either wrong place or not deep enough ...

China is VERY HEAVY .... and this is one place you need to get it right. Particularly annoying given the cost of most cabinet installs.

I understand the issue about being a sub and needing to meet the contractors requirements ... but I consider poorly secured cabinetry that is not disclosed to a home buyer right up there with putting sawdust in a differential. Maybe the cement helps I dunno.



( FWIW: a personal rant - I also have a "thing" about MDF ... I HATE that Sxxt with a passion and tired of listening to "experts" tell me how good it is. Its only a matter of time before moisture in the kitchen swells the MDF and it looks like hell.)
 
Well I still do not agree....If you have 2 @ 2 1/2" screws sunk into a stud on one side of a upper cab and 2 @ large zip ancors in the other side of the cab for a total of 4 in one cab you can hang on that thing. No way its going to sag. The shear strength of one exterior screw is around 200lbs x 2 plus another 100lbs for the ancors is about 500 lbs. Thats a lot of china.

Also I agree with MDF being s***. I have never and will never use it. Only to build speaker boxes back in the day.
 
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I hate MDF, mostly cutting it but as far a cabinets go the material rules.
It's straight as an arrow and doesn't warp like veneered plywood.

It would be nice to just order the cabinets by the dishwasher and sink made from ply instead or MDF for the aforementioned moisture issues.

Also painted MDF trim also looks great when a pigmented lacquer is applied. It's finish is super smooth
 
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