Best Disk Brake solution (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Nov 12, 2002
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I presently have a 73 FJ40 with SOA, 38” Swampers. I have done a Mini-truck disk swap from an 83 mini and those are the rotors / calipers that are on the 40 today.

On to my questions: I am in need of new calipers & rotors now and I want to upgrade to a better stopping solution if I am going to open my wallet. In that I presently have a bit of a mut… I need your advice. I did a full search and my plan presently is to do the following:
1. Vented rotors from a FJ40/60 -- is ’81 the correct year to ask for?
2. 4 runner calipers – a) is ’92 4 runner (with IFS & v6) the correct year here? b) are the ones with 4 large pistons the best? & c) any thoughts on whether my 2.5” backspaced rims will give me enough clearance for them?
3. Keep the ’73 master but remove the residual valve from the front only -- in that I still have drums in rear -- don’t worry… rear disks are next :D

Just for fun... here is a pic
Side.jpg
 
I just wanted to say it cracks me up to look at that pic and see *frame-off* in your sig. Obviously, you have your priorities straight. :D

I'll leave the disc brake advice to more qualified posters. Going to vented rotors and 4Runner calps will make for an improvement. :)
 
The only advantage you will reap from the vented rotor swap is the ability to dissipate heat better, this IMHO will be a non issue on a trail rig, stopping power is the same on both.
You should save the $$ for Rear discs.
Butch
 
Not just a trail rig

Texican,
No doubt… this is primarily a trail rig but my rig is also street legal (well as far as the DMV is concerned) :D and I do drive it to and from the trails (up to ~2hrs in some cases).

Are you saying that if it were you – you would pay the money to replace the mini rotors & calipers with the same mini rotors & calipers & not upgrade?

4x4poet,
Yup frame off and I planned on it being just like this from the beginning – original 40 cost me $700.

JonnyC,
Here are some pics of the inside... I have added more to the cage since but you get the picture.

also, just for fun here is a pic of my motor & snorkel
IM000080.JPG
IM000884.JPG
fenders 011.jpg
 
I missed the part about needing rotors and calipers anyway, but there will be no performance advantage to doing this........and I'm not sure about the parts you need to get, however I think it is in the archives or tech links.........I know FJ60 stuff bolts onto the knuckles cause I have done that.........
Butch
 
found another one...

found more pics of the cage / inside.
IM000878.JPG
IM001389.JPG
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trailcarnage did an extensive rundown on this...search some threads with his username and you'll find his info...

I run 77ish FJ40 vented rotors with 92ish 4R calipers....didn't notice squat for additional brake holding, but my stuff is usually in good shape (or crimped off...lol)

the later rotors are desirable tho with the mini hubs...

my rotors are pretty thin relative to the calipers...I'll wager the 60ish rotors are thicker

TC had a good/cheap source for the rotors too...I'll search it down when I need it


someday...lol
 
Cheap source for rotors and other parts- www.rockauto.com

I would run vented rotors also for the fact that they are not as likely to be hot when you dunk them in water on the trail, thus preventing warpage.

Also- you'll notice that disk rotors that bolt to the hub with their own bolts are MUCH more expensive than the FJ60 style rotors that are held in place by the wheel studs. If you can get a set of FJ60 hubs it may be worthwhile to swap to the 60 series style rotor for future cost savings.

You should have no trouble with wheel fitment.

That said, I have new in box a set of Wagner Rotors for minitrucks, already turned. Bought them and never opened them till I needed them and then realized the machine shop gave me minitruck rotors instead of the LC rotors I needed. These are MUCH higher quality than the cheapo stuff on rockauto and you get from most discount auto places. I'll make you a deal. :D
 
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FWIW I just did an axle buildup for my 91 runner with a V-6.

I used:
-84 mini truck axle, knuckle, hub, dust shield
-Stock 4runner v-6 calipers and pads
-FJ-80 vented rotors. These fit exactly the same as the mini truck, non vented rotors (held by the hub studs and two 8mm bolts.)

Everthing was a bolt on, slight trimming of the dust shields was needed to clear the calipers.
 
im finishing up a d/b conversion on mine with the 60 stuff on it and '81 is the correct year for vented rotors, i dont why you would go with a 4 runner caliper as you can pick up the ones that are stock for the rotors for around $60 (re-built) im pretty sure. the LC caliper that is matched with the rotor has 2 large and 2 smaller pistions on them though i dont know if that would make any difference
 
If the four equal sized pistons were not an improvement over the previous set up, why would Toyota have installed them, first on V6 4Runners and pickups back in 1988, and then on all 4Runners after 1992?

I have operated similar trucks with identical tires/lift/ accessories, etc and the braking improvement is very apparent.


:beer:
 
woody said:
my rotors are pretty thin relative to the calipers...I'll wager the 60ish rotors are thicker



Thicker compared to a new vented rotor, or a solid mini disc? ;)


If you are running vented rotors and they are the same thickness as a solid mini rotor...your brakes NEED attention! :)


:beer:
 
pulled the trigger and have all but the calipers installed (had to order them). I just hope they clear the rims with either no or light trimming in that I have to drive it next weekend :D

Anyone running this solution -- can I get a measurment (tape or micromiter) -- what is the distance from the outside of the rotor to the outside edge of the caliper when it is installed (basically 1/2 the width of the caliper).

also, just in case I need them -- what is the partnumber for the spacers some need to run
 

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