Belt and pulley replacement part numbers (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Sep 6, 2022
Threads
2
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Location
Dallas, TX
Hey all, I have looked around a bit but am not seeing anything that is helping me out here. My 2004 GX470 has just started making a squeak when starting the engine when cold. My plan was to replace the belt along with the idler pulley and the belt tensioner/pulley. My confusion is coming from the multiple part numbers on the site and I am not seeing any info really online. I have seen mention in some places about not replacing the idler pulley but rather replacing the bearing alone. Any guidance on this would be helpful

Belt:
9091602586
9091602585
Idler Pulley:
166040F010
166040P011

Belt Tensioner Pulley:
166030W030
166030W010

Other Parts:
166200W101

Which of the pulleys/belts should be chosen or is there a better option like buying just a bearing out there.Looking for the best result and not trying to do this as cheap as possible. In case it matters, I will also be doing a Nations Alternator shortly as well
 
If you’re doing alternator and worried about all the pulleys, just go ahead and do the timing belt as well.

I’d reference partsouq or amyama for part numbers. Enter your vin, and just go off the drawings there. I don’t have them off the top of my head, but head to the schematics and leave behind the forum numbers. You can cross reference on here, but I always confirm other ways first. If any question, you can then refer it back to Lexus parts here in America and check again.

But really, if you’re pulling out the alternator and want to replace pulleys, some are included and some are not, but you get ORM quality and no question of fitting or not.
 
If you’re doing alternator and worried about all the pulleys, just go ahead and do the timing belt as well.

I’d reference partsouq or amyama for part numbers. Enter your vin, and just go off the drawings there. I don’t have them off the top of my head, but head to the schematics and leave behind the forum numbers. You can cross reference on here, but I always confirm other ways first. If any question, you can then refer it back to Lexus parts here in America and check again.

But really, if you’re pulling out the alternator and want to replace pulleys, some are included and some are not, but you get ORM quality and no question of fitting or not.
Sorry if I was not clear in my post. I am not “just pulling the alternator and wanting to replace the pulleys”. The issue is that my car is making a squealing sound on initial cold start from the serpentine belt. This is what I am trying to solve, I am not worried about my timing belt at this time.

I have pulled the part numbers in my original post from the offical lexus parts website. I am not sure if you looked up any of the numbers I provided but the fact they are both showing as the “correct part” and are different prices is what has me confused. Along with the fact I have read some things in my searches that indicate that none of the pulleys sold by lexus are “OEM” and the best thing to do to stay as close to OEM as possible is to replace the bearing in the pulley I have on the car today.

I may be using the search feature wrong… but I searched the forum and google for the parts numbers trying to see if there was guidance out there before I posted this thread and got nowhere.

*edited for spelling
 
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Sorry if I was not clear in my post. I am not “just pulling the alternator and wanting to replace the pulleys”. The issue is that my car is making a squealing sound on initial cold start from the serpentine belt. This is what I am trying to solve, I am not worried about my timing belt at this time.

I have pulled the part numbers in my original post from the offical lexus parts website. I am not sure if you looked up any of the numbers I provided but the fact they are both showing as the “correct part” and are different prices is what has me confused. Along with the fact I have read some things in my searches that indicate that none of the pulleys sold by lexus are “OEM” and the best thing to do to stay as close to OEM as possible is to replace the bearing in the pulley I have on the car today.

I may be using the search feature wrong… but I searched the forum and google for the parts numbers trying to see if there was guidance out there before I posted this thread and got nowhere.

*edited for spelling
I get what you are saying.

I was just going off of the “wanting to do it right, cost isn’t an issue thing”.

If this was my truck, I would grab the timing belt kit from Aisin, that is as close to OEM as what you will get. And then buy the additional tensioner pulley. I prefer not to replace just the bearings on things, as the parts are cheap enough and last lon enough to not be worth my time.

You said you were pulling the alternator, which is part of the timing belt job, which includes the pulleys, sans 1. And they will be the correct parts, that myself and hundreds of others here have used to replace the same parts you are looking for.

As for clarification on part numbers, that is why I suggested partsouq. Go in there, create an account, and then put your vin in. From there, search for the parts you are wanting. Lexus online here in the states leaves room for improvement, and I have often seen the same issue you have, and don’t really care to clarify when I’m ordering.

I did not look up the part numbers because I prefer to confirm parts fiitment other ways.

Seriously, if for nothing else than looking up parts, partsouq.com is your best bet if you’re having trouble navigating.

Parts that Lexus sells are oem. Same with Toyota. They aren’t there to push you aftermarket parts, they sell you the correct part for a correct price (their perspective.) you may be hearing people refer to “not oem” because it’s Aisin or some other OE supplier that supplied the parts to Toyota. But make no mistake, 99 percent of the parts you buy from Toyota are Toyota OeM. Might be some fakes that slip through somewhere, but that’s why I put 99 percent.

All else fails, call park place Lexus up by you, or go visit, and they can straighten you out.

Again, if I was doing exactly what you are doing, I would spend 180 on a kit, knock out the timing belt while I am already in there, and avoid any BS trying to source bearings and do that work. Then I would make sure to grab the one or two other parts youre needing, and be done with it.
 
I get what you are saying.

I was just going off of the “wanting to do it right, cost isn’t an issue thing”.

If this was my truck, I would grab the timing belt kit from Aisin, that is as close to OEM as what you will get. And then buy the additional tensioner pulley. I prefer not to replace just the bearings on things, as the parts are cheap enough and last lon enough to not be worth my time.

You said you were pulling the alternator, which is part of the timing belt job, which includes the pulleys, sans 1. And they will be the correct parts, that myself and hundreds of others here have used to replace the same parts you are looking for.

As for clarification on part numbers, that is why I suggested partsouq. Go in there, create an account, and then put your vin in. From there, search for the parts you are wanting. Lexus online here in the states leaves room for improvement, and I have often seen the same issue you have, and don’t really care to clarify when I’m ordering.

I did not look up the part numbers because I prefer to confirm parts fiitment other ways.

Seriously, if for nothing else than looking up parts, partsouq.com is your best bet if you’re having trouble navigating.

Parts that Lexus sells are oem. Same with Toyota. They aren’t there to push you aftermarket parts, they sell you the correct part for a correct price (their perspective.) you may be hearing people refer to “not oem” because it’s Aisin or some other OE supplier that supplied the parts to Toyota. But make no mistake, 99 percent of the parts you buy from Toyota are Toyota OeM. Might be some fakes that slip through somewhere, but that’s why I put 99 percent.

All else fails, call park place Lexus up by you, or go visit, and they can straighten you out.

Again, if I was doing exactly what you are doing, I would spend 180 on a kit, knock out the timing belt while I am already in there, and avoid any BS trying to source bearings and do that work. Then I would make sure to grab the one or two other parts youre needing, and be done with it.
I will read the rest, but my dude… why do you keep mentioning the timing belt?? This is the serpentine belt I am talking about and NOT the timing belt. The alternator has absolutely nothing to do with the timing belt and I have zero desire or need to do the timing belt now. The timing belt is not a “while youre in there” job for the serpentine belt, and the alternator is easy to do alone on a non-kdss model and even easier since I dont run a front sway. The only reason I mentioned the alternator was in case the serpentine belt would need to be a different length to support the Nations alternator upgrade.
 
You might want to confirm the PNs with a local Toyota dealer. It can be pretty hard to decipher the parts diagrams otherwise. I order almost all of my parts from one of my local Toyota dealers, officially for a V8 4Runner of the same year. Recently when I ordered a driveshaft I provided by Lexus VIN and they cross-checked things for me, and actually recommended a different PN than I had picked. I'm also lucky to have a local Toyota dealer who is quite good and has cheap parts prices - perhaps you have another in the DFW area like that.

As far as the actual problem goes, I've not had a belt squeak on my rig. On other vehicles, it's always been just the belt and the tensioner. The other idler pulleys probably aren't making a squeak. When those start to go out they make more of a high-speed whirring noise (caused by the bearing drying out).
 
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I will read the rest, but my dude… why do you keep mentioning the timing belt?? This is the serpentine belt I am talking about and NOT the timing belt. The alternator has absolutely nothing to do with the timing belt and I have zero desire or need to do the timing belt now. The timing belt is not a “while youre in there” job for the serpentine belt, and the alternator is easy to do alone on a non-kdss model and even easier since I dont run a front sway. The only reason I mentioned the alternator was in case the serpentine belt would need to be a different length to support the Nations alternator upgrade.
You mentioned tensioner pulley. Idler pulley. Alternator. Serpentine belt.

You mentioned sourcing parts of oem quality or oem. Then mentioned not knowing what parts are right.

I mentioned the timing belt kit because by the time you get all that stuff off there and parts replaced, it’s literally nothing to swap belts out. The “timing belt kit” has the idler pulley. Chances are if you have bad pulleys or early signs of failure, like squeaking when cold, you probably aren’t that far off from other pulleys needing some love.

I’m suggesting maintenance items based on your not knowing how to find the correct part numbers, and the list of what you just said you needed.

I’m aware of what the serp belt is. I’m aware of the tensioner and idler pulleys.

I gave you my suggestion based on owning three of these vehicles for years, and wrenching on all of them. You’ll need more than those couple things you listed, and I’m the type of person to throw in easy prevention items when I’m already halfway into the job. Hence my suggestions.



Good luck with your parts, learn how to use the diagrams for our vehicles and you will find what you need.
 
You might want to confirm the PNs with a local Toyota dealer. It can be pretty hard to decipher the parts diagrams otherwise. I order almost all of my parts from one of my local Toyota dealers, officially for a V8 4Runner of the same year. A couple of times I've provided my Lexus VIN and they've done a cross-check for me. I'm also lucky to have a local Toyota dealer who is quite good and has cheap parts prices - perhaps you have another in the DFW area like that.

As far as the actual problem goes, I've not had a belt squeak on my rig. On other vehicles, it's always been just the belt and the tensioner. The other idler pulleys probably aren't making a squeak. When those start to go out they make more of a high-speed whirring noise (caused by the bearing drying out).
Thanks Red, makes sense, I will call tomorrow as it seems they will have the correct answer to this, thanks. I do the same (lexus dealer nearby has great online pricing) which is why I was trying to sort this out to place the order online :) can always call in, get my answer, say thanks, and then place the order! Luckily I know my parts are right but there is only a one number difference (last number) between the parts I posted so hopefully they can explain the difference and point me in the right direction. I will add an update to this thread when I get a resolution for them so others may benefit.

Makes sense it could cut a little time out of the t belt job if doing the pulleys etc since they would be out of the way, but that would have the overall impact of making the whole job bigger, and I have a bit of time until I need to do the timing belt. I figured it was the tensioner like you mentioned but thought I might as will hit the other rotating assembly connected to the serpentine belt while in there. Sounds like I may be able to put off the idler until I do the timing in a couple of years.
 
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I don't think the idlers on these go bad very often. You can also spin them by hand when removed. They should be quiet. If they make a whirring noise, the bearings are dry, and you should replace the..If your dealer has a decent return policy, you could always take them back if they are good.

It could also just be the belt.
 
You mentioned tensioner pulley. Idler pulley. Alternator. Serpentine belt.

You mentioned sourcing parts of oem quality or oem. Then mentioned not knowing what parts are right.

I mentioned the timing belt kit because by the time you get all that stuff off there and parts replaced, it’s literally nothing to swap belts out. The “timing belt kit” has the idler pulley. Chances are if you have bad pulleys or early signs of failure, like squeaking when cold, you probably aren’t that far off from other pulleys needing some love.

I’m suggesting maintenance items based on your not knowing how to find the correct part numbers, and the list of what you just said you needed.

I’m aware of what the serp belt is. I’m aware of the tensioner and idler pulleys.

I gave you my suggestion based on owning three of these vehicles for years, and wrenching on all of them. You’ll need more than those couple things you listed, and I’m the type of person to throw in easy prevention items when I’m already halfway into the job. Hence my suggestions.



Good luck with your parts, learn how to use the diagrams for our vehicles and you will find what you need.
thanks for your input, I could really do without the condescending "learn how to use the diagrams"... Especially since my sole question had nothing to do with reading the diagrams, it had to do with the parts listed. I asked a specific question and you did not want to/ were unable to answer it. which is fine 👍
 
I don't think the idlers on these go bad very often. You can also spin them by hand when removed. They should be quiet. If they make a whirring noise, the bearings are dry, and you should replace the..If your dealer has a decent return policy, you could always take them back if they are good.

It could also just be the belt.
Will keep my fingers crossed it is just the belt/tensioner. Belt was replaced by previous owner and does not appear to be OEM so I would not put it past that being the issue. I usually just get all the parts I MIGHT need and then return what I don't use/don't want to keep on hand. I just absolutely hate starting a job and needing to order something so I would rather be over-prepared. Will get the needed parts sorted tomorrow with Lexus and then will diagnose what needs to be replaced once I get the belt off and can spin them freely.
 
thanks for your input, I could really do without the condescending "learn how to use the diagrams"... Especially since my sole question had nothing to do with reading the diagrams, it had to do with the parts listed. I asked a specific question and you did not want to/ were unable to answer it. which is fine 👍
Man, I wasn’t being condescending.

Genuinely telling you the way I do things. I’m not going to go look up parts for you to tell you the difference, but I will tell you how I get the answer for myself.

And if you finished reading what I said, I answered your question with the same answer nexus did lol. I said to call your local parts dealer to get clarification, and I even gave you a dealer that I use for this stuff, that is local to you if your location listed is accurate for you.

And then I told you what I would do, and you end up saying you might put it off until you could do the timing belt job in a couple years, because it makes the job easier.

My impression was that your idler was bad. And that’s part of the timing belt. If the idler is bad, means it didn’t get replaced or it’s faulty. And on and on and on. My train of thought if this was my truck, would be to replace the things in the timing belt kit. And other pulleys while in there. Plus a couple other things. Because half of it would be off to do the other things anyways.

Again, wasn’t being a prick, was just telling you what conclusion I would end up at, along with answering your questions about the part numbers. And I meant the good luck part, and there hasn’t been a thing I couldn’t answer by pulling diagrams for my particular vin and seeing the part picture and box and part number on the screen.

Take it easy.
 
Man, I wasn’t being condescending.

Genuinely telling you the way I do things. I’m not going to go look up parts for you to tell you the difference, but I will tell you how I get the answer for myself.

And if you finished reading what I said, I answered your question with the same answer nexus did lol. I said to call your local parts dealer to get clarification, and I even gave you a dealer that I use for this stuff, that is local to you if your location listed is accurate for you.

And then I told you what I would do, and you end up saying you might put it off until you could do the timing belt job in a couple years, because it makes the job easier.

My impression was that your idler was bad. And that’s part of the timing belt. If the idler is bad, means it didn’t get replaced or it’s faulty. And on and on and on. My train of thought if this was my truck, would be to replace the things in the timing belt kit. And other pulleys while in there. Plus a couple other things. Because half of it would be off to do the other things anyways.

Again, wasn’t being a prick, was just telling you what conclusion I would end up at, along with answering your questions about the part numbers. And I meant the good luck part, and there hasn’t been a thing I couldn’t answer by pulling diagrams for my particular vin and seeing the part picture and box and part number on the screen.

Take it easy.
That is fine if you are not going to do any legwork on this whatsoever, but guidance/ any experience with the difference between those parts is what I am looking for here. I was using the diagrams as I have done for all of my other installs but never before have I seen two part numbers for the same part. I do understand that will mean they are interchangeable but did not know if one was better than another and could not find any info relating to these parts from the community while researching for myself. Thus why I started a thread and included all part numbers to make it easy for someone to copy/paste or reference their records and possibly give me some guidance.

I do understand a lot of people make posts and they did not prepare or research. That is not what I did here (or ever do). My question was not the general "what parts do I need to do this job".... My only question was "what is the difference between these two part numbers I am being presented". I am not wanting to buy a timing belt kit or do that job yet. I am just wanting to get the random squeak on cold starts resolved. I also hope to not need to replace the idler etc but I don't want to pull the serpentine off and not be prepared to replace something it could be.

Park Place is exactly where I am pulling this information from and I would not be able to ask the question I am asking if I could not read a diagram. It is because I can that I am in this position. Just as an example, here is the page with the two belt options. I can respect that you don't want to look up part numbers, but if you feel so inclined as to click this link you may see where my confusion is coming from. this is the same issue I am facing on all parts in my original post. My knee-jerk reaction is "buy the more expensive option" but am not sure if that is correct :cheers:

belts.png
 
I’ve heard that some generic aftermarket serpentine belts can make noises on Toyota/lexus.

You can get a Toyota oem belt or get it from one of their oem suppliers Bando serpentine belt 6PK2240

Also, my mechanic noticed a noise coming from the serpentine belt idler pulley and replaced just those two things: Bando belt and idler.

Unfortunately, I didn’t get the part number but we used Toyota idler pulley.
 
Hey all, I have looked around a bit but am not seeing anything that is helping me out here. My 2004 GX470 has just started making a squeak when starting the engine when cold. My plan was to replace the belt along with the idler pulley and the belt tensioner/pulley. My confusion is coming from the multiple part numbers on the site and I am not seeing any info really online. I have seen mention in some places about not replacing the idler pulley but rather replacing the bearing alone. Any guidance on this would be helpful

Belt:
9091602586
9091602585
Idler Pulley:
166040F010
166040P011

Belt Tensioner Pulley:
166030W030
166030W010

Other Parts:
166200W101

Which of the pulleys/belts should be chosen or is there a better option like buying just a bearing out there.Looking for the best result and not trying to do this as cheap as possible. In case it matters, I will also be doing a Nations Alternator shortly as well
Www.partsouq.com says both of your idler pulley part numbers have been substituted by

PULLEY SUB-ASSY, IDLER, NO.2​

Part number: 1660431020​


So, go figure….
 
So I called Park Place three times and they did not answer any of the calls. It just rang for 3+ minutes and then hung up on me. I then tried Sewell who did answer and reminded me of the CDK attack, so maybe that is what Park Place is dealing with. The guy at Sewell did tell me that according to his records and based on the VIN it showed that the 9091602585 belt was the correct one for my car but he could not tell what the difference was between the two other than is response of "well, one (1), I guess"... which we both got a good laugh about.

. Onto the pulleys, apparently the 166030W030 Belt tensioner pulley is the "smaller one with the yellow ring" but there was no note on the other to inform what markings it had specifically. Finally, according to Sewell, they did not have record of the Idler Pulley 166040P011. I still plan to confirm these with park place as the part numbers came from them. A bit is cleared up but not everything.
 
Weird that park place isn’t answering. Usually have great service from them.

Again, hope you get it sorted. Usually I’ll refer back to updated part numbers via partsouq as things get updated and parts become obsolete.

I do see your confusion and it looks like those are two different brands of serp belts.

Apologize for the confusion or coming across wrong, wasn’t my intention. Hope you get it figured out bud.
 
Weird that park place isn’t answering. Usually have great service from them.

Again, hope you get it sorted. Usually I’ll refer back to updated part numbers via partsouq as things get updated and parts become obsolete.

I do see your confusion and it looks like those are two different brands of serp belts.

Apologize for the confusion or coming across wrong, wasn’t my intention. Hope you get it figured out bud.
I did not get a chance to try them again today but I feel the same. They have been fantastic for me and I have purchased probably near 50-100 parts from them. I think this CDK hack may be the cause. Sewell had to do everything for me using paper etc. all systems are down for them.

I will check out partsouq again and my apologies as well if I was coming off as dense. The multiple parts was just bizarre and did not know if people preferred x over y. Thanks again and no hard feelings on this end. It seems like I should have just taken this to the dealer originally rather than the forums 🤣
 

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