i do this once a year with distilled water. It will add miles to your battery and only takes a minute.
Before summer starts top off your battery
- Thread starter SWUtah
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #3
Better yet - get a good AGM battery and stop worrying about it:
Damn you got me on the old your battery can beat up my battery
gaijin
GOLD Star
Damn you got me on the old your battery can beat up my battery
Certainly not my intent, but ... if it came to that, I always have back-up:
Markuson
SILVER Star
Certainly not my intent, but ... if it came to that, I always have back-up:
I’m double AGM, but wishing for a Redarc so they’ll fully charge. The stock alternator doesn’t quiiiite cut it.
What battery you folks running?
gaijin
GOLD Star
How much did those run you? I'm looking at the same batteries for mine. Also, which dual battery kit is recommended?
Last edited:
gaijin
GOLD Star
I'm trying to avoid paying those prices. Was wondering if purchased thru a group buy or something
gaijin
GOLD Star
I'm using the stock tray, but I liked the Slee top strap better because of the handle on top of the Northstar - the stock top strap just fits the edges of the battery where the Slee strap fits snugly against the entire top surface. Some easy bending of the Slee strap is required for best fit, but that's easy peasy.
The stock top strap will work, here's a pic:
But I didn't feel secure with the stock strap seating on the handle on the back edge of the battery.
The Slee strap is much more sucure:
HTH
Hmmmm interesting...
Hate to be a party pooper, but it's wrong battery type for the job.
AGMs require lower float voltages and are intolerant of excess voltage. Add to the fact that with hot underhood temps, voltages should be further reduced... Recipe for premature failure.
Flooded cells actually are more tolerant of excess voltage and heat as they can relieve that excess energy by boiling off electrolyte. AGMs can't as they are sealed. (Actually they can as fail safe's, but that only serves to kill them faster).
@SWUtah is on point. Check your batts and they will give you even longer service life.
AGMs require lower float voltages and are intolerant of excess voltage. Add to the fact that with hot underhood temps, voltages should be further reduced... Recipe for premature failure.
Flooded cells actually are more tolerant of excess voltage and heat as they can relieve that excess energy by boiling off electrolyte. AGMs can't as they are sealed. (Actually they can as fail safe's, but that only serves to kill them faster).
@SWUtah is on point. Check your batts and they will give you even longer service life.
Markuson
SILVER Star
Not everyone has the same power needs.
When you add refrigerators/freezers & charge electronics (iPads, iPhones, Satalite comes, lights etc) that run for 1-2 days without driving/charging...my understanding is that AGM can handle the slower & lower discharges...while revert/recharging more quickly than wet batteries.
When in Baja for 8 days, I was running a fridge and freezer unit 24/7...not to mention a microwave (go ahead and laugh...while I eat killer leftover lasagna in the boonies )
I didn’t have any trouble over those 8 days.
More recently, I had a failure in my IBS system...but since figuring that out...things have been pretty good. I was also running the HKB resistor during that time to increase voltage upon deep discharge (which AGMs like when deeply discharged) and am running that again now. I say “again” bc a shop took it out without telling me—which compounded my faulty IBS issue. Much improved since getting my HKB back in.
Anyway... My 2 cents.
Clearly there is no single, nor perfect answer to the battery puzzle.
When you add refrigerators/freezers & charge electronics (iPads, iPhones, Satalite comes, lights etc) that run for 1-2 days without driving/charging...my understanding is that AGM can handle the slower & lower discharges...while revert/recharging more quickly than wet batteries.
When in Baja for 8 days, I was running a fridge and freezer unit 24/7...not to mention a microwave (go ahead and laugh...while I eat killer leftover lasagna in the boonies
)I didn’t have any trouble over those 8 days.
More recently, I had a failure in my IBS system...but since figuring that out...things have been pretty good. I was also running the HKB resistor during that time to increase voltage upon deep discharge (which AGMs like when deeply discharged) and am running that again now. I say “again” bc a shop took it out without telling me—which compounded my faulty IBS issue. Much improved since getting my HKB back in.
Anyway... My 2 cents.
Clearly there is no single, nor perfect answer to the battery puzzle.
AGM and flooded battery discharge is comparable in my experience. AGMs need to charge slower, and the charging voltages are slightly lower. You generally shouldn't equalize (overcharge) an AGM battery, though you can (and should) do that monthly to a flooded battery to bake off some of the sulfation. Where AGM wins is that it can handle a lot more deep discharge cycles than a flooded battery and it's "maintenance free". It can also be mounted in any position, so if you roll your LC you won't have to worry about battery acid leaking out
Where the confusion sets in is that most people buy flooded starting batteries and deep cycle AGM batteries. You are correct that a starting battery (which has thinner plates) cannot be discharged as far as a deep cycle battery.
IMO your best bet is a regular flooded battery for your starting needs and a flooded true deep cycle battery (not a "marine deep cycle" which is supposed to act as both) as your secondary for all the reasons @TeCKis300 mentions.
Where the confusion sets in is that most people buy flooded starting batteries and deep cycle AGM batteries. You are correct that a starting battery (which has thinner plates) cannot be discharged as far as a deep cycle battery.
IMO your best bet is a regular flooded battery for your starting needs and a flooded true deep cycle battery (not a "marine deep cycle" which is supposed to act as both) as your secondary for all the reasons @TeCKis300 mentions.
Not everyone has the same power needs.
When you add refrigerators/freezers & charge electronics (iPads, iPhones, Satalite comes, lights etc) that run for 1-2 days without driving/charging...my understanding is that AGM can handle the slower & lower discharges...while revert/recharging more quickly than wet batteries.
When in Baja for 8 days, I was running a fridge and freezer unit 24/7...not to mention a microwave (go ahead and laugh...while I eat killer leftover lasagna in the boonies
I didn’t have any trouble over those 8 days.
More recently, I had a failure in my IBS system...but since figuring that out...things have been pretty good. I was also running the HKB resistor during that time to increase voltage upon deep discharge (which AGMs like when deeply discharged) and am running that again now. I say “again” bc a shop took it out without telling me—which compounded my faulty IBS issue. Much improved since getting my HKB back in.
Anyway... My 2 cents.
Clearly there is no single, nor perfect answer to the battery puzzle.
As much as you’d like to differentiate your use, I’d say your use case is not much different than most. Power user!
I do have experience playing with AGMs, as early as a decade ago. I’ve killed my share. Like I’ve said, I literally power a home for 4, in the form of a travel trailer with batts. Microwaves, hair dryer, fans, lights, electronics, heaters, you name it. More than any vehicle will ever use.
Fundamentally, AGMs are straight up not compatible with the vehicles electrical system. Look up any trickle/solar/bulk charger. They have to support an AGM charge profile, which is distinct from flooded. Raising the voltage with a diode is further exacerbating the issue. AGMs already charge fast by virtue of their design and low internal resistance. They are going flat not because of the SOC, but because they are being systemically damaged in the application.
I’m trying to help the understanding of how best to setup a system to support power needs. Easiest way is to drop in a single large or perhaps 2x regular size flooded batts. Weight IMO is more a concern than you guys give thought to. Even a single (healthy) large batt is a LOT of power reserve when used in overlanding style, where the car is run just about daily. Augment that with a portable solar charger 50-100W for extended camps. Another great tool is a portable lithium batt to power electronics, size of your choosing, that can also jump the car as a backup.
The only way I’d use an AGM in car, is to set it up as a separate bank. With it’s own DC-DC AGM specific charger. Though its just easier to add a flooded batt.
Markuson
SILVER Star
I’ve never met anyone else running microwaves in their LC. But OK.
Last edited:
RET2
SILVER Star
Mark is special didn't you know? Oh and tire pics are his fav
