Bearing pre-load poll

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DJWUZJ

DJWUZJ

10 Year
Joined
Aug 4, 2012
Threads
41
Messages
525
Location
Fairfax, VA
After my 6 hour struggle with the drivers side bearing pack, today I finally got the truck out to stretch its legs.

I noticed the howl from my BFG AT to be a little louder than usual in the 50-65mph range... Then it would quiet down.

While both hubs were warm, drivers seemed hotter to the touch.

After research I have noticed many adjusting nut/pre-load opinions - ranging from the FSM to 35ft lbs. I ended up going higher (46) to get 10lbs on the fish scale... Now thinking its too high.

Poll starts now - what are you all doing for your load adjustments?
A. FSM Recommended
B. 4 runner 18 ftlb
C. 35 ftlb
D. Other and anyone who questions it is crazy
 
30 lbs - 46 seems high to me.
 
As a mechanical engineer, I understand tapered roller bearings pretty well. I just repacked mine last weekend. I recommend B. 35 ft-lbs on that tapered roller bearing adds a lot of unnecessary load on the bearing.
 
I tighten it by hand, no more. Once you do it a few times, you'll "feel" how tight it should be. FWIW, I've never done the fish scale and have done my bearings 3 times. No problems.
 
Bummer on the 6 hour bearing struggle. I also found that I had to go too high with the torque wrench to get the fish scale thing right. So I'm a little over "B".
 
Someone here did a study and ended around 30. Mine are 30 and fish scale measurement still not close to fsm.
 
I know this may be overly simplistic...

...for the 100 series forum, but I adjust mine just like I'd adjust any normal front wheel bearing...

Grease everything, tighten the inner nut until I feel a bit of resistance while turning the tire. Back off half a flat, install the lockwasher and outer nut and peen over the lockwasher tabs.

No temperature issues, no play with the wheel grabbed at 12 and 6 or 3 and 9 o'clock.

Bearings and races look great after 3 greasings over 90K or so.

-hanko
 
To give you a sense of what load pressure you are looking for......
Many front bearing setups have an oversized washer under the bearing nut. Correct adjustment is just tight enough that you can still move the washer laterally using a screwdriver or similar by hand [without leverage against a fixed point]. That is not a lot of clamping force, but is perfect for most tapered wheel bearings.
 
In the process of re torquing, I figured I'd get the groups opinion on these:

1. The wear mark on the washer was there when I took it off. This time I flipped it around. Is this normal or would you recommend replacing?

2. The "witness marks" on the inner bearing area of the spindle also occurred as a though to inquire about.

Thanks in advance!

image-34555936.webp


image-3114931423.webp
 
I'm not sure about the wear marks, but I can say my wheels around the center used toget hot to the touch also. After a repack using the fish scale method, the run smooth and cool.
 
12guns said:
I'm not sure about the wear marks, but I can say my wheels around the center used toget hot to the touch also. After a repack using the fish scale method, the run smooth and cool.
Click to expand...

Sorry about the revive, but my front hubs would be hot to touch before greasing the bearings and still does afterwords, are anytime else's not hot after driving? I went on the freeway and back through neighborhood to get home and they're still hot to touch after repack. I just figured it was part of the heat disappation process.
 
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