hmm. In that case, maybe use one switch on the + wire coming out of your 24v system to ignition. I'd then do another disconnect on the + between winch and wherever you have it tying into the battery. Just curious, what is your intent for disconnecting the winch separately? My thing is simplicity but if that disconnect says it does what you're wanting, then go for it...I just don't have any knowledge really to back that up.
Battery cable and disconnect questions (20 Viewers)
- Thread starter jfrench
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- Thread starter
- #22
Yeah, the whole point was to do this with one switch if possible but I'm thinking I'll just use two to make sure I don't start my truck on fire. And after looking more closely at the switch I referenced, it won't work anyway.
The starter wire, vehicle harness and positive winch cable all get connected to the positive terminal of my high side battery (24v) currently. I want(ed) to put one switch between those loads and the battery but have separate circuits to isolate the winch. The reason for this is the recommendation that came from @Nas90tdi in his first post in this thread:
"I put a cutoff on my winch always. That is something that doesn't get used much and could save you arc welding a cable if it rubs through while you are going down the road. It's not a pleasant experience, things tend to get interesting when an 0 gauge cable goes straight to a body panel. It will still do it with the cutoff, but you literally have you hand on it when it happens. So, the response time is much better than while in motion."
Thanks again for your input
elkaholic
Left turn ...freakin wipers!
I have also seen solenoids stick on winches which gets interesting when you cant stop them from running. I also always have some sort of electrical disconnect between the winch and battery on electric winches. I am using a Ford starter solenoid on my SxS for example.
It's not even really a question of how many grounds, but that the two grounds are for two separate systems. The engine ground for the engine (starter, alternator, sensors, etc) and the chassis ground for the body (radio, switches, lights, etc). If you remove the fender ground, but leave the engine ground, chassis grounds will find a path. Typically, though, that path is through circuitry not made to handle such loads and will fry. I've seen it dozens of times.
As far as battery cutoffs, I've always cut the positive on race car builds. You really can use either, I was always taught. Just remember that a battery cutoff isn't a kill switch. Your vehicle will still run if you disconnect your battery. The alternator keeps it going.
As far as battery cutoffs, I've always cut the positive on race car builds. You really can use either, I was always taught. Just remember that a battery cutoff isn't a kill switch. Your vehicle will still run if you disconnect your battery. The alternator keeps it going.
Many Landcruisers have fuel cut solenoids and when they lose power , they cut the fuel at the fuel pump.
I'm aware, but the alternator will keep things running, depending on which battery switch you use. Go out to your truck and disconnect the battery while it's running. It'll stay going. Remember, the batteries are mainly used for starting the truck. In my youth before owning a battery charger, I would start a vehicle and then remove the battery while it was running and install whatever dead battery I had in its place in order to charge it.
fireball
SILVER Star
Why couldn't you use the dual battery switch to accomplish your goal?
m-Series Mini Selector Battery Switch - Black - Blue Sea Systems
m-Series Mini Selector Battery Switch - Black - Blue Sea Systems
- Thread starter
- #29
Like I said, I’m an electrical idiot. Can I use a switch like that and just have loads on the usual output as well as what would normally be the 2nd battery input? I guess electrons can flow any direction, so whether it’s the load or power source that switch has the potential for two outputs?
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fireball
SILVER Star
I'm no expert either so hopefully others will chime in. But I think you could wire this as follows:
Output would go directly to battery
1 would be all loads previously tied to battery positive terminal
2 would be positive cable to winch
Turn selector off to kill all. Turn selector to 1 for all normal operations. Turn selector to both for winching. Turn selector for 2 if you want to winch and kill your battery very quickly
Output would go directly to battery
1 would be all loads previously tied to battery positive terminal
2 would be positive cable to winch
Turn selector off to kill all. Turn selector to 1 for all normal operations. Turn selector to both for winching. Turn selector for 2 if you want to winch and kill your battery very quickly
Hello,
x2.
Engines and electrical systems are not as simple as they used to be. Even in Land Cruisers.
Fuel pumps and ECUs need a steady supply of current to operate properly. Stray current from poor grounding can easily kill them.
Electrical grounds are located where they are for a reason. Messing with them will drain your batteries, thus causing headaches.
Juan
- Thread starter
- #32
I'm no expert either so hopefully others will chime in. But I think you could wire this as follows:
Output would go directly to battery
1 would be all loads previously tied to battery positive terminal
2 would be positive cable to winch
Turn selector off to kill all. Turn selector to 1 for all normal operations. Turn selector to both for winching. Turn selector for 2 if you want to winch and kill your battery very quickly
View attachment 1794769
Thanks @fireball. I'm going to give it a go.
For those fully replacing all their battery cables, what gauge wire did you use or is OEM?
jblueridge
SILVER Star
I took my old cables to an auto electric shop.
Alternator Man used arc welding cable to manufacture new ones for me.
Gauge is bigger than stock but I don’t know the number designation.
Alternator Man used arc welding cable to manufacture new ones for me.
Gauge is bigger than stock but I don’t know the number designation.
- Thread starter
- #36
The wire I used pictured in post #11 on page 1 is #2 AWG.
