• Vendor Archive

ARCHIVE BASICS: Stop ruining your alt adjusting block and bolt (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

NLXTACY

Wits' End
Joined
Dec 7, 2007
Threads
111
Messages
20,769
Location
Medford, OR
I was trying to explain how to adjust the 1FZ alternator belts tension to a customer over the phone and apparently my description wasn’t enough so instead I opened up Illustrator and drew it up for them...and now you.

It’s an easy process but I realize it’s easy once you’ve done it a few (or hundreds of) times. It all comes down to knowing what bolts to touch and how much. This should help.

I know I know, this is super crazy basic but it’s amazing how often this gets messed up and why adjusting blocks and bolts get trashed so easily.

alternator-adjusting-vector.png
 
Last edited:
:rofl:

Can't help stupid... :) (or males that don't read or own the fsm)

cheers,
george.
 
Both my pre-owned 80's came with a bent alternator adjusting bolt.
Diagram is a good idea; first time you look at the bolts (or if you haven't
touched them in 10 years) from above it's almost a blind procedure trying to figure out which bolt to turn and in what order.
 
You can save a bit of time and use a couple 3/8 extensions and work the adjustment bolt from the drivers side fender well. Squeeze next to the gear box
 
Nice tip @Rwhat. I had never thought about using extensions. I ended up buying a set of gear wrenches after trying to adjust the tension bolt 1/4 turn at a time with a standard wrench. Took forever. The gear wrenches have gotten plenty of other use but wish I had known about the extensions before. Would have saved me some sore arms and a lot of time.
 
I was trying to explain how to adjust the 1FZ alternator belts tension to a customer over the phone and apparently my description wasn’t enough so instead I opened up Illustrator and drew it up for them...and now you.

It’s an easy process but I realize it’s easy once you’ve done it a few (or hundreds of) times. It all comes down to knowing what bolts to touch and how much. This should help.

I know I know, this is super crazy basic but it’s amazing how often this gets messed up and why adjusting blocks and bolts get trashed so easily.

View attachment 2162314
It begs the question, if they can't figure out this simple task correctly should they really be holding a wrench?
 
You should sell that as an under hood decal.

While you are at it, make another one on adjusting the throttle cable and cruise control cable tension. I always screw up which nut to loosen and which nut to tightent in order to increase or decrease tension on the cables :doh:.
 
Everybody starts somewhere. I'd be proud if I had to fix my kid's screw up if she ever attempted actually fixing anything on her own.
 
It begs the question, if they can't figure out this simple task correctly should they really be holding a wrench?
True, but you got to start somewhere and I am all for people trying to learn new stuff or how to wrench on their cruiser as long as they are learning the right way to do it. Joey's willingness to teach and explain this basic stuff is what mud is about and what got me started wrenching on the land cruiser 10 years ago.
 
So you'd get bonus points and my undying gratitude if you'd add one little detail. As a two owner guy and one who changes belts before they fail you'd think I could remember this important detail but could you put a little circular arrow on the adjuster bolt indicating which way tightens and which loosens the belts?

I'm sure people will chime in that its obvious but every time I do this I have to experiment with a few dozen revolutions before I discover I'm tightening the belts and start going the other way, it seems. Thanks in advance. I'm going to print your diagram and tape it into my FSM.....
 
After this morning’s alternator adjusting bolt conversation, I got a follow up text asking, “how can I tell if belts are tight enough?”

If the belts feel loose…they are.
Keep in mind the belts MUST be matched sets. Then the belts SHOULD be OEM because of how the belts sit in the pulley. Non-OEM tend to sit too far into the valley of the pulley.

Anyway if you press down on the run of the belt (between the pulleys) it should feel taught. If you can deflect the belt easily by pushing on it then its too loose. The problem with determining correct torque on the belts is the tools that Toyota recommends, they are spendy and you can’t get a clear shot to use them. Instead I found this little “click” tool that works great. Gates makes it and I’m sure a quick Google search will find it.

When new the builds should be between 90-132 ft lbs. After 5 mins check them again and they should be 45-88 ft lbs.

24C9F434-040D-4695-B13B-F20B5C1C379C.jpeg
4CF269D2-4393-45C7-A007-0485FB718C19.jpeg
31928614-6408-4B76-9FC6-24300014CB05.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I taught I taw a puddy cat.

belt should be taut rather than taught :)

cheers,
george.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom