Axle shaft circlip doesnt retain shaft

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pnolanIH8MUD

pnolanIH8MUD

10 Year
Joined
Jun 13, 2011
Threads
40
Messages
240
Location
Austin, TX
Website
activthrust.com
I just noticed today that my 2002 land cruiser passenger front transaxle wasn't seating near the hub. In fact up to 1" away. I opened up the dust cap and found the circlip off stuck into the grease at the end of the cap. I reattached the cap but the clip isn't working either due to the machining on the shaft or it being not seated or it being worn. Anyone else experience this? I was going to drive a 200 mile trip tomorrow but am afraid of harming the differential. Am I buying a new cv shaft kit?ZuOle
 
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I found the same thing not long after I bought my 100, not sure how it was like that but I can assume is was for quite a few miles. There are 5 different sized clips available for one side and 4 for the other, not sure which side is which but they are only about $1.50 each. You will need some duck billed pliers to install the clip, you can pick those up at O'Rielys. There is a hole in the end of the axel shaft that you can screw a bolt into and give it a tug to make sure its all the way out before you insert the clip, you want the clip as tight as possible.

I just noticed you are in Austin as am I, I have the pliers and a few extra clips, pm me if you need.
 
To add to what's already been provided: These circlips are a non-resusable part per Toyota. Be careful to only open them as minimally as necessary...they're easily over-stretched and then you'll end up back in the same boat ;)

Everyone who works on their own 100 should have a few of these in their tool kit/parts bin in all the sizes.
 
Axle cont'd

I tapped off the dust cap again and per Shawn at Land Cruiser Specialists here in Austin, I hadn't pulled the shaft out far enough and certainly didn't use the threaded bolt (now a part of my toolkit) to tug on the shaft. Worked like a dream.

It appears that I could have a c-clip that's too wide as this wasn't able to spin freely by hand once in place. It is however in the groove this time. I'm thinking that the c-clip might also be a little sprung but will give it another try.

I'm going to give it a drive and see how it goes. Will check back with you all.

Thank you!

I actually did find my long lost c-clip installer remover too glad to say.
 
My spare clip bag has 90520-31010 "Snap Rings"printed on it. As stated, there are 6 or so sizes, and the rings have "B,C,D,E,F,G " stamped on side from wide to narrow. I used the narrow G and F gauge when doing my hubs this summer. When ordering, make sure to get two of each at minimum!
 
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Using the 8m bolt made the job easy! Drove to SA and back and the clip stayed put.

Im thinking whoever did last brake job didn't reassemble this right.

Are there any other conditions that would cause that clip to spring off? Would this area be affected by loading with a weight distribution hitch downforce?

Could worn lower control arm ball joint increase span between hub and differential causing spring to release in dust cap?
 
What type thread/pitch is the bolt? The CV axle can actually extend/compress quite a bit. I am rebuilding this weekend and will probably end up taking measurements if anybody is interested. A rig that is not lifted will have more than enough CV extension I don't think the CV ever reaches full compression.
 
How does one know which size clip to use? Is there a way to measure this using a caliper? I am assuming that by the sound of it, there isn't a set size that everyone uses? I am not replacing my cv's, just reinstalling them.
 
3D FJ said:
How does one know which size clip to use? Is there a way to measure this using a caliper? I am assuming that by the sound of it, there isn't a set size that everyone uses? I am not replacing my cv's, just reinstalling them.
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I used a good (Tesa / Browne & Sharpe) caliper to measure axle groove width.

If your clips have one edge dead sharp and flat, and the other side just a bit rounded, the sharp side goes toward the grease cap.

The duck-billed pliers are a necessity. ;)

hth

Steve
 
hankinid said:
I used a good (Tesa / Browne & Sharpe) caliper to measure axle groove width.

If your clips have one edge dead sharp and flat, and the other side just a bit rounded, the sharp side goes toward the grease cap.

The duck-billed pliers are a necessity. ;)

hth

Steve
Click to expand...

Would this measurement be taken with the axle in place through the hub, or out of the hub?


Mxndrnks said:
You can use feeler gauges...
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Like a thickness gauge?
 
3D FJ said:
Like a thickness gauge?
Click to expand...

Yes. Or if you already have one of each clip (good to keep two of each in your parts), I just pull the axle through as far as it will go and start with the largest size and work backwards till it fits. Less exact.... but works. You can just slide an edge in the groove without trying to put it all the way on.
 
Mxndrnks said:
Yes. Or if you already have one of each clip (good to keep two of each in your parts), I just pull the axle through as far as it will go and start with the largest size and work backwards till it fits. Less exact.... but works. You can just slide an edge in the groove without trying to put it all the way on.
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^ This.

There will be clearance between the engine side of the lock ring and the hub when installed. You're finding the lock ring that fits the axle grove.

Steve
 
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